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Posts posted by yungkory

  1. Any of you know where you can order turkey breast online? I smoked some turkey breast for Thanksgiving as a trial and.... my mother in law is no longer interested in cooking turkey next year.

    I bought butterball turkey breast because it was all i could find locally, but i was disappointed to find out that it isn't just a single, large turkey breast, it was a semi-large one with some filets to make up the weight to 4lbs. Looking for something like this:


    I tried to Google but I could only find pre-cooked birds that will ship to you. Looking for a Snake River Farms type of service, but one that offers turkey breast.

    Also, if anyone is interested, this is the video that I got the idea from/copied:


    • Like 2
  2. On 11/26/2022 at 9:06 AM, Golfspy_TCB said:

    A few posts this past week... knowing we have all been distracted by weather and the holiday...  just curious Testers... what are your initial findings?  Which ball seems to fit your game better and why?

    Granted, there is still much testing to be done.... but did one of these balls "WOW" you in the first stages of testing?

    Played today and it was nice that the tradewinds were down for the first 8 holes. Took the opportunity to play the 348 on the front and it does everything that I'd expect a ProV1x to do -- at least what I'm familiar with having played them for the last 2 years.

    Switched to the 388 on the back, and the winds picked up a little bit. Nothing really crazy, a 1-club wind at most. I really struggle to notice a huge difference between the two outside of:

    1. The feel. The 348 is firmer (no shock) on all shots and feels "lighter" like I've mentioned before. Again, I struggle to explain it since feel is subjective, but the 388 feels softer, and heavier at the same time.
    2. Launch and peak height windows with driver thru 5i are higher with the 348.

    Shot an 80 with a double on the front and a triple on the back where I hit 4 total bunker shots out of 3 different bunkers (LOL). So I got to go to the beach and play golf today, wee!

    • Like 3
  3. 8 hours ago, GolfSpy_BOS said:

    Good stuff!  I’ve also been an X user for many years

    now but will occasionally use a regular Pro V1. I have to agree around the green performance seems to be more feel than anything, but off the tee I see a big difference in window just as you did.

    I feel like I get more distance out of the X, and maybe a bit more control, but I have no data to back that up so it may just be perception. 

    With how similar these have been the past few generations I’m curious if they’ll differentiate them a bit more with this revision. 

    Last 2 iterations of the X compared to the 348 -- I don't see much difference on full shots.

    I might have to go and get a dozen of the current V1 to test since I don't really play it that often, but on full swings the ball is noticeably flatter of a flight, especially with lower-lofted clubs.

    • Like 3
  4. I know they say you should start from the green and work your way back when choosing a ball, but I honestly don't really notice a difference performance wise around the greens. The only difference between the two in the short game is the feel.

    I've been a V1x user for a few years as I mentioned previously, because I needed the height and spin. Admittedly, I never seriously tried the regular V1 because of the marketing saying it's the lower flying ball. After I found out that my previous irons weren't spinning enough for me, which resulted in the lack of height, I've found that I don't really need the extra spin after finally getting a proper fit. 

    Played today in 20mph tradewinds with slightly stronger gusts, basically a two club wind for the most part. Since I know pretty much how the V1x/348 will perform, I chose to play the 388 since I have very little experience playing the "regular" V1. In short, I'm probably going to switch to regular V1 after this.

    Off the tee the V1x/348 is noticably higher and launching through a higher window. The V1/388 is flatter, but seems to move forward more, rather than arching like the 348 if that makes sense. They both go the same total distance, and I'm not gaining distance over last year's V1x. The V1 just gets there differently, and in a round like today where it was blustery, it was very welcome.

    • Like 3
  5. Played like absolute dog water on the front so since I wasn't going to make any semblance of a typical score, I put the 388/ProV1 in play on the back 9.

    I still played like doodoo, but there were some differences that I felt. Feel is so subjective, but:

    1. Ball seems to want to move forward more than the 348, and last generation V1x that I'm familiar with. Don't know if that's due to less spin and the ball not "floating" as much, but just an observation since I don't have LM data. Still went plenty high for me, so I liked that a lot.
    2. The 388 feels "heavy" compared to the 348. But off the face feels really soft. 348 not clicky by any means, but it feels hollow and less marshmallowy. I kinda prefer the 388 feel wise.
    3. Spin around the greens was a little hard to judge when I was practicing because it was wet and I was getting rained on while chipping. Then the sun came out and it was immediately a sauna. Couldn't really tell the difference other than feel in this instance, but I'll have a couple more sessions before I put out my actual review.
    4. Cover is kinda sus. I hit a rock once, so I was expecting one rash. Somehow the ball had two after 9 holes.
    • Like 4
  6. 5 hours ago, GolfSpy_BOS said:

    Which ones are up first?! Or are you going to use both models?

    Headed to the course so I can chip with both for an hour before the round. Going to play the V1X first since I've gamed that ball for years and have the most familiarity with it.

    If time permits I'll drop some V1s down from the same positions on the course to see if I can do some direct comparisons but I doubt it won't be crowded.

    Gonna walk on to the munis a few times to play them against each other where I know I can "practice" during the round without being a jerk and holding folks' rounds up.

    Btw, does anyone know if the 348/red number is in fact the V1X? And the 388/black is the regular V1? I'm assuming they didn't switch the number colors around, but they've done it in the past.

    • Like 2
  7. 6 hours ago, mikeanthony said:

    Fellow Testers … if price was never of a concern, which golf ball would be in play for you year-round? 

    Not to be a homer due to the company being tested, but for me it would be the ProV1s … with the Chrome Soft LS being a surprisingly close 2nd at the moment. 

    There may or may not be a Garmin Approach R10 in mail soon, but I’ll be very curious to see how the new Titleists compare to the CS LS with the driver off the tee. 

    The only reason why the Z-star diamond is in my signature, was because they're cheaper than V1x when the promo is running. They've been decent, but for me the V1x ticks all of the boxes, except price. I think the Bridgestone Tour BX is better in the wind, but greenside spin with that ball is 404 - not found (for me). That's why I was excited to hear that the new V1/x are supposed to be better in the wind, and why I signed up.

    Money-no-object though, I would find it hard to believe everyone on the forums couldn't find a Titleist ball that fit their game, which is why they're the most played ball on tour.

    • Like 2
  8. Intro

    Just want to shoutout the mods first to say thanks for giving me the opportunity to test a product that I've been heavily contemplating bagging recently! My name is Kory and I am blessed to call Hawaii my home. I've been playing this great (frustrating mostly) game for most of my life. Started at a young age, kinda fell out of love with golf in high school and college, but since 2017 have been absolutely obsessed. Prior to the birth of my son in 2021, I was playing 9 holes weekly, and 18-hole rounds about twice a month. I'm currently playing 1-2 times a month now, but I am going to have to play and practice more to do this test some justice for the other forum members and readers, sorry wife (not sorry)!

    While I was playing more frequently, I got down to a 7.7 HDCP. Now that I'm not playing or practicing as often, I don't submit scores, but typically shoot low 80s with the occasional high-70s round sprinkled in. You know how golf is, you'll go and shoot a solid round for your handicap and think "hey, I'm back I can do this!" and then get absolutely wrecked the next round. Golf be like that sometimes.

    My typical ball flight is mid-height and while it is good for keeping the ball out of the tradewinds, I hate it lol. I want to feel the drama of throwing the ball into the clouds and have it strike down on the green from the heavens above. That was overly dramatic but you get the point. Ball go high = more fun (for me) so that's what I look for in a ball. The V1x in the past has been the best ball for me to achieve that, since I'm not a very high speed player, and learned from a recent iron fitting that I'm relatively low spin as well, with my misses being more low spin. So, that's likely why I've gotten along with the V1x for so long since it is the "higher launching, higher spinning" option. Short-game spin is even more important to my game and a successful score, as I'm not really the 8i bump and run guy. I like to see what kind of spin I can get from my lie, and come up with a plan from there when I'm chipping, expecting a certain amount of "check" or "no check." The lack of short game skill is probably why I hover around an 8

    When I read the tour seeding post that Toney wrote for the MGS blog, and it mentioned Sheffler talking about the ball being developed with the wind in mind, I immediately got excited. Hopefully not just some marketing stuff they put in his ears, but that's what I'm hoping to see in my testing: is this ball better than previous iterations in the wind? If they make the "best" ball (as in, most played ball at the highest levels of golf) better in the wind (something that I'm dealing with 9/10 rounds) then there's no chance one of these balls doesn't make it into my bag, right? Can't wait to test and see!

    • Like 4
  9. 2 hours ago, Thin2win said:

    That's kinda sad,  the internal seals only take a trained shop a few hours to change,  but a shop that doesn't know rotary would have no idea.

    I don't even know of a single shop that could rebuild a rotary back in "my days" of really being into cars. My friend had a turbo FC, was always wondering what would happen if the seals blew.

    My first car was an 89 240sx coupe. Ordered a JDM front clip and swapped the motor, fenders, headlights, front bumper. Car pretty much had full bolt-ons, full coilovers, boost controller, but basically stock outside of that. Was probably one of the first ~20 or so SR20-swapped on the island at the time. Pretty fun car, used to spin the tires all the way till 3rd gear, and really easy to get sideways. 2004 me wasn't playing golf because all of my money went into my POS car lol.



    • Like 4
  10. 5 hours ago, johnsomp said:

    Can anyone comment on whether a 1 degree difference in lie angle would be noticeable? I was fit for a 70 degree lie angle, but was offered a good price on a putter with a 69 degree lie angle that i couldnt try before buying. I think I stand a bit too close to the ball so if i backup an inch that would suggest a lower lie angle, right? 

    Wouldn't you start most putts 1* offline? That's a miss every time at 10' or more I believe.

  11. 8 hours ago, Samsonite said:

    This reminded me - I've been meaning to ask this for a while now:  Why have Truespec (or any fitter, for that matter) build them up, as opposed to ordering directly from Mizuno?  Is there a benefit there?  Is it included in the cost of ordering through Truespec, or is it an added cost (I'm assuming along with the fitting)?  

    I was thinking about doing a full-bag fit at TS, as it's currently 50% off, and then taking whatever I glean from it and ordering a new set of irons at some point next year, but I know they offer the "build" service - just curious what you saw as the advantage of that.  


    If you're fit into a specific shaft that isn't part of the Mizuno matrix, they (Truespec) would have to build them for you. You're definitely able to order direct from OEM, and you might be able to tell them during your fit that you don't want non-oem offered shafts, but I'm not 100% on that.

    Truespec doesn't want to leave it up to OEM to build though, they pride themselves in their build quality and can't provide that same guarantee otherwise. There's definitely a markup for them to build it, they're a business after all. It's up to you to decide if it's worth the extra money. For me, it is -- I'm trying to give myself less excuses to buy new clubs.

    • Like 4
  12. 2 hours ago, Rfalken said:

    @Rickp How long was the wait for them? I remember the 921's got up to 6-8wks. Not sure Mizuno was able to improve the wait times. 

    I got my irons in 3 weeks and they had to go to Truespec to be built out first. I think the supply chain/logistics issues have improved greatly. Good news for all us club hos!

    • Like 2
  13. 3 hours ago, dlow206 said:

    My hero too. I'm trying to get out of the CHA shenanigans, but i do have two sets of JPX 923 on the way lol.

    And you're my hero. 2 sets of JPX and 2 AFs?

    Olaf Excited GIFs - Get the best GIF on GIPHY

    • Like 3
  14. 36 minutes ago, RickyBobby_PR said:

    Have you even looked? I can think of 3 companies off the top of my head that have them. UST, Project X and Mitsubishi. Other that iirc have them are graphite design, fujikura and kbs

    I think he means he wants them added to Mizuno's matrix

    • Like 1
  15. 1 hour ago, golferguy2727 said:

    I had a BMW i3 and that logic from charging was accurate re 0-80% fast, final 20% slower.

    One of my first experiences with this topic as an EV owner was enlightening.

    I stopped at a charger on a long journey home with about 6% battery remaining.  The single FAST DC charger was blocked  - the guy had just bought his EV and this was charge number 2 for him.  He was only 12% when I arrived so I knew I had at least an hour to wait, so grabbed some food to kill the time as there were no other chargers nearby back in those days. I eat, wander and come back an hour later and he's at 82%.  I ask him when he thinks it will be done and he say probably only 15 minutes.  I tell him the 0-80% / 20% logic mentioned above and he says, nope thats not how his car works. I nod knowingly, mumbling to my self.  45 minutes later he's at 87% so I ask him if he needs to be 100% to get home.  He says he lives only 3 miles away ..... I ask him politely if he can cut it short since I need ALL OF THE POWER I CAN GET HERE TO GET HOME. He is resistant but finally gives in and acknowledges that "maybe his first charge was the same thing, but he thought it was a first charge only thing ...."

    I think EV owners should be given basic EV etiquette education  - it's a different way of living, especially when the cars in question are of the limited capacity variety.

    Just like the golf industry, there are a lot of unaware consumers. Just have to try and communicate the things you've learned along your journey and hopefully people listen and pass the word along. 

  16. 4 hours ago, Kanoito said:

    Wait... I thought the 80% rule was just to avoid the having the battery sitting at full charge for too long?
    I didn't know from 80% to 100% consumes more electricity. That's good to know... I'll change the setting to 80% then.

    My daily drive is 16km round trip to work.

    Until now, my yearly electricity bill was about $1300. With the whole war thing going on, it's expected to jump all the way to $3000-4000 and now winter without sun... it's gonna hurt.

    From 20-80 it might take your car two hours to charge. From 80-100 it'll take another hour according to this study: https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S2352484719310911

    "Note that, the total time to charge the car from 20% to 100% of SoC was, on average, 3 h and 6 min, while for the area between 20%–80% of SoC it took almost 2 h and for the last 20% of SoC"

    So yeah, it's better for the battery lifecycle to do the 20-80 thing, but it's also better on your energy bill. So when your commute allows it, it's better to just charge to 80%.

    I've read online that people charge to 100% once a month for "conditioning" but I don't see any evidence to back it up. Supposedly to keep the battery in good health, but hard to believe everything you read on the internet. Even the article I linked might be a sham, but at least I'm able to measure that myself, and I've found it to be consistent. I've done L3 charging twice and both times the car flew to 80 quickly, then plateaued

    • Like 3
  17. Time for the NFL to open an investigation on Miami and Tua's "back" injury in Week 3. Willing to bet he was concussed on Sunday, after what just went down on TNF. Sad to see, obviously had a soft spot for Tua since he's a local boy.

    Hope he recovers fully and reconsiders playing football.

    • Like 2
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