I am looking for a trade. I will give my Taylormade M1 10.5 2017 and I want a callaway Epic SZ. If someone has a Rogue Max 75X would be nice but I could trade just the head too. I have a lot of XStiff shafts just in case someone wants to trade the rogue max for another XStiff shaft..
Just hit me up!! Thank you
Went into the local Edwin Watts to waste some time and ended up giving the new Wilson Triton a go. I've been reading the lot of usual complaints (alignment strip, noise, shape, etc) and while I share in a lot of those sentiments I'm usually not one who cares as long as something works.
The Triton works....
At least it did for me compared to everything else I hit while getting fitted. This isn't a review as I haven't had it out on the course yet but I wanted to at least share some thoughts.
I currently play to a 1.7 Handicap and swing between 100-105 mph. I hit the ball pretty straight and putting is usually where I lose strokes.
If you read the review MGS put on the main blog page it sums up my experience with the driver perfectly. It had the lowest spin out of anything I put up against it except for the M1 430. I currently have an M1 430 but have found if I hit it high on the toe or come too far from the inside the spin can be too low and the ball drops out of the sky. The highest spin number I got with the Triton was around 2300 RPM. I also recorded the highest ballspeed and swing speed out of any club I tried during my test.
As some have mentioned the sound is a little loud but I only found this to be the case if you hit hard range ball type golf balls (ie hard). When hitting a normal Pro V1 or Taylormade Project (a) the sound was fine, even in the indoors fitting area.
Being a clubmaker, however, the Triton is my dream club. I can take the entire club completely apart and essentially re-build it however I want. Thus I unscrewed the titanium sole plate (this gave me better numbers than the carbon fiber) and added about 4 grams of hot melt directly below the face.
The clubhead without the sole plate, weight screws and adapter comes in at 160 grams. It now weighs 164 after the hotmelt.
I am playing a 6 gram in the toe and (2) 2 gram weights in the back and heel weight ports.
Once I got everything put back together I ripped off the Wilson stock grip (basic Lamkin black Crossline) and cut 1/2" off the Aldila Rogue 125 shaft. This brought the club to about 45.25" long once I installed a GolfPride Tour Z cord grip.
Now that everything is back together it's playing right at D3 swingweight. Bouncing a ball off the clubface I can immediately hear a difference in the sound/feel. I can't wait to get out and hit some full swings to compare the new sound. Anyways, enjoy a few other pictures below.
Im a 20 y/o golfer from Sweden, working in one of biggest Golfstores in Europe. Always looking to renew the bag with better gear, this is the final WITB for the season, feeling great!
Playing with Titleist Pro V1x balls, Peak Performance Golf Stand Bag.
TaylorMade M1 460 9.5* (set 2 stage lower) with a Project X Hzrdus Yellow 6.5 (75g), 44.75" (Tipped 0.5") D5 SW, got 3 weights total, 1 in CG, 2 in slides.
Its a boooooooooooooomb!!!!
Titleist 915Fd 13.5* set to B1 with a Oban Devotion 8, 05 Flex 42.20" (Tipped 1.5") D3 SW, I had the Tour Green 85X in for a test but my old devotion is still better.
The new Cobra F6 King Baffler 16.5* with a Aldilda ATX Tour Green 85X 41.75" (Tipped 1") D3 SW, Heavy weight in the front.
My swing is kind of deep so I think the rails will benifit my aggressive swing alot, havent tried it alot yet.
Titleist 716 AP1/AP2 Combo. AP1 in the 3 Iron and 5-Pw is AP2. The 5 iron got 25.5* of loft, so my gap is 20, 25.5 then 30 in the 6 iron. I am playing the AP1 like driving irons for little bit more forgivness.
Got the Dynamic Gold Tour Issue X100, great shaft nothing more to add!
SM5 52/12* F Grind, bent to 51/11* regular X100 shaft, going to pull it out and install TI X100 next season. SM6 F Grind 56/14*, bent to 55.5* TI X100 shaft, TaylorMade TP ATV 58*, bent to 59.5* KBS HI-REV X shaft, works really well, need alot of bounce since I take big divots. All of them painted in the swedish colours.
Scotty Cameron Select Newport 2, 33.75", installed 2x 25g SuperMan weights, custom painted it in Swedens colours. Also got the limited Sweden Super Stroke Grip.
Toney Covey's Recent blog, titled as above, was a revelation for me. My driver SS is 90-100, hasn't changed in years. The M1 is the longest driver I ever hit: avg 230 total with 220 carry, capable of 250-260. My M1-460cc is 9.5* with the stock Fujikura Pro60 Stiff. At neutral settings, I hit it 200, but increasing loft setting 2* got me 30 more yds. Only problem was, increasing loft on an M1 automatically closes the face; the two adjustments are inseparable. The 2* uploft closed the face 4*. No way to prevent it. So, to get 30 more yards of distance, I had to fight a pull hook all day. For 30 more yds? You bet! Then along comes Toney's article. So i moved both weights to the extreme rear, moving CG back. This increased dynamic loft, higher trajectory, more distance -- maybe. But the amazing thing was it eliminated side spin! The club is now a point-and-shoot howitzer. I now step into the tee box with confidence my drives are going to go and finish at least in the general vicinity of where I'm aiming. Apparently rear club weighting is a good thing, and I'm looking for my lead tape. Anybody out there have a similar experience?
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