Dr Strangelove Posted June 10, 2017 Share Posted June 10, 2017 My brother gave me his set of AP1s. I would like to switch out the shafts, which are .355 tip. I am looking to get a set of shaft pulls. Is it true that you only trim tapered shafts at the butt - meaning that you can take a tapered tip previously in a 4 iron and put it into a Gap Wedge by just trimming from the butt? Or do you need to trim from the tip and the butt? Quote G430 Max 10K driver,Aeroburner 3W, F6 Baffler XR 4, 5 hybrids 2021 T300 6-GW irons 2021 T300 53, Smart Sole 4.0 58 wedges DF3 putter Bullpen: AXIS 1 Rose putter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GolfJunkie302 Posted June 10, 2017 Share Posted June 10, 2017 My brother gave me his set of AP1s. I would like to switch out the shafts, which are .355 tip. I am looking to get a set of shaft pulls. Is it true that you only trim tapered shafts at the butt - meaning that you can take a tapered tip previously in a 4 iron and put it into a Gap Wedge by just trimming from the butt? Or do you need to trim from the tip and the butt? I believe you only want to trim at the butt, otherwise the shaft won't fit in the hosel. You can always add extra wraps at the butt if you need to cut a lot off. That way, the grip will be the right size. Let me know if this helps! Sent from my SM-T580 using MyGolfSpy mobile app Quote 2017 M1 460, Project X HZRDUS Black 6.0 JPX EZ 3 wood Fly-Z 4H MP-60, 3i-PW, True Temper Dynamic Gold S5 54° & 58°, True Temper Dynamic Gold California Monterey Pro V1x Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chisag Posted June 10, 2017 Share Posted June 10, 2017 ... Taper tips are built to a specific length. IE: 36.5" wedge and 39" 4 iron and you butt trim only. Parallel shafts are all the same length and you trim the tip and then the butt. Putting a 4 iron TT shaft in a PW means you are playing a very weak shaft almost 1.5 full flexes softer in your wedge.... I would find a set of pullouts to install as the parallel shafts won't fit in the AP2's anyway. Personally I prefer the feel of TT shafts as opposed to parallel as I could never get them to feel the same. DGS300's parallel's trimmed according to True Temper just felt stouter than corresponding DGS300 Taper tips. null, poprocksncoke and gaussman1 3 Quote Driver: Qi10 10.5* ... AutoFlex Dream 7 SF405 Fairway: Qi10 5 wood ... Kai'Li Blue 70r Hybrids: G430 Hybrid 22*... Alta Hy70r Irons: P770 5-pw ... Steelfiber i80r TP UDi 4 ... Steelfiber i80r Wedges: MG3 46*/50*/54* MG4 58* ... Steelfiber i95r Putter: Custom 5.1 (no alignment) 33" Ball: '24 TP5x/Maxfli Tour X Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gaussman1 Posted June 11, 2017 Share Posted June 11, 2017 Chisag is absolutely right. You have a good option and a poor one. Poor option is ream out the hosel to accept a parallel tip shaft, which is not something I would recommend. Good option is find a set of TT shafts to install. Don't cost much in steel so worth a shot Sent from my Nexus 6P using MyGolfSpy mobile app Quote Rogue SZ 10.5 *NEW* Fujikura Pro Green 65 X Rogue 15 degree Evnflow Blue 6.5 Back in the Bag Z765 4-G Nippon Modus 120 Stiff 54 and 60 Amazing Grace Ass Kicker Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr Strangelove Posted June 11, 2017 Author Share Posted June 11, 2017 Thanks guys. I'm debating between Nippon 950GH and Recoil 780ES in stiff. It will come down to price, so the Nippon's but I'm curious if anyone has paired these shafts with Titleist. Quote G430 Max 10K driver,Aeroburner 3W, F6 Baffler XR 4, 5 hybrids 2021 T300 6-GW irons 2021 T300 53, Smart Sole 4.0 58 wedges DF3 putter Bullpen: AXIS 1 Rose putter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chisag Posted June 11, 2017 Share Posted June 11, 2017 Thanks guys. I'm debating between Nippon 950GH and Recoil 780ES in stiff. It will come down to price, so the Nippon's but I'm curious if anyone has paired these shafts with Titleist. ... The Nippons launched very high for me in a set of AP2's. Nice shaft if you are a low ball hitter or need some help getting the ball in the air. I play Recoil 95/110's but have never hit the 780ES. Quote Driver: Qi10 10.5* ... AutoFlex Dream 7 SF405 Fairway: Qi10 5 wood ... Kai'Li Blue 70r Hybrids: G430 Hybrid 22*... Alta Hy70r Irons: P770 5-pw ... Steelfiber i80r TP UDi 4 ... Steelfiber i80r Wedges: MG3 46*/50*/54* MG4 58* ... Steelfiber i95r Putter: Custom 5.1 (no alignment) 33" Ball: '24 TP5x/Maxfli Tour X Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kor.A.Door Posted June 13, 2017 Share Posted June 13, 2017 My brother gave me his set of AP1s. I would like to switch out the shafts, which are .355 tip. I am looking to get a set of shaft pulls. Is it true that you only trim tapered shafts at the butt - meaning that you can take a tapered tip previously in a 4 iron and put it into a Gap Wedge by just trimming from the butt? Or do you need to trim from the tip and the butt? You don't want to take a .355 tip 4 iron and putt it in the GW, it will be like a flimsy whip, since butt trimming that will remove all the stiffness. For .355 tip shafts you buy them for the specific iron. If you are looking for pulls them look for the set makeup that you have, 4-PW, 5-GW, 5-Pw, those configurations, otherwise you won't have the correct shafts for your set. Good luck finding what you are looking for. Quote Lefties are always in their Right Mind Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr Strangelove Posted June 21, 2017 Author Share Posted June 21, 2017 Thanks for all your help. I wound up installing a new Nippon 950GH in the 8 iron. I really liked the combo in an AP1. What a fantastic shaft. I couldn't leave well enough alone, however. I found some REALLY cheap Ping AWT 2.0 shaft pulls, which are also made by Nippon. I figured what the heck, I'll try those out at less than $5 a pop before swinging over $25 each for the 950GH. It will look funny however. Quote G430 Max 10K driver,Aeroburner 3W, F6 Baffler XR 4, 5 hybrids 2021 T300 6-GW irons 2021 T300 53, Smart Sole 4.0 58 wedges DF3 putter Bullpen: AXIS 1 Rose putter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KenMar Posted July 22, 2018 Share Posted July 22, 2018 Hi, I know this isn't ideal, but I'll ask anyway. My supplier is running out of XP95 S300 taper shafts and only has #3 and PW shafts left. Is it acceptable to use a #3 TT and tip trim so that it can be installed in say a #7 iron so that the shaft steps are consistent, then butt trim to length? I understand the balance point and shaft weight will be different than a TT #7 iron shaft. I could then purchase his last 2 #3 XP95 S300 shafts and store in case I break a shaft in the set. Cheerz Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaskanski Posted July 22, 2018 Share Posted July 22, 2018 Hi, I know this isn't ideal, but I'll ask anyway. My supplier is running out of XP95 S300 taper shafts and only has #3 and PW shafts left. Is it acceptable to use a #3 TT and tip trim so that it can be installed in say a #7 iron so that the shaft steps are consistent, then butt trim to length? I understand the balance point and shaft weight will be different than a TT #7 iron shaft. I could then purchase his last 2 #3 XP95 S300 shafts and store in case I break a shaft in the set. Cheerz In short - no you can't. Like has been said before, each taper tip shaft is discrete to each head - meaning the 3 iron shaft is designed to go in a 3 iron. If you put that shaft into a 7 iron, you are effectively soft-stepping the shaft 4 times, so the flex will play 4 times weaker and you will end up with something softer than regular. Not only that, but once you trim the butt down to 7 iron length you will probably have the grip overlapping the last step on the shaft - not ideal. Buy the right shaft for the right head - it's that simple. cnosil and GB13 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KenMar Posted July 23, 2018 Share Posted July 23, 2018 Hi, Thanks for your prompt reply. But if you tip trim accordingly so that the steps match the shafts in the set, won't the #3 iron match the set except for shaft weight. I'm an club maker in Australia and have done the above to my own #6 iron using a TT #3 shaft when I snapped the original shaft and notice no difference in feel or flex and hit distance taking into consideration the #5 and #7 shaft is about right. I've extracted the original #6 snapped shaft, aligned 1st lower step, marked original tip location, then tip trimmed the #3 shaft and made a couple 1/4" Dremel cuts on the tip so that the bottom of the shaft conforms to the taper. If I line up all shafts in order, the steps match, distance from ferrule to lower step reduces as clubs get shorter. For the butt end, grip installs without issue as butt is trimmed to length maybe a 1/2" or so. As I said above, not ideal but as shafts are replaced, it's harder to track down a replacement. Cheerz Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaskanski Posted July 23, 2018 Share Posted July 23, 2018 Hi, Thanks for your prompt reply. But if you tip trim accordingly so that the steps match the shafts in the set, won't the #3 iron match the set except for shaft weight. I'm an club maker in Australia and have done the above to my own #6 iron using a TT #3 shaft when I snapped the original shaft and notice no difference in feel or flex and hit distance taking into consideration the #5 and #7 shaft is about right. I've extracted the original #6 snapped shaft, aligned 1st lower step, marked original tip location, then tip trimmed the #3 shaft and made a couple 1/4" Dremel cuts on the tip so that the bottom of the shaft conforms to the taper. If I line up all shafts in order, the steps match, distance from ferrule to lower step reduces as clubs get shorter. For the butt end, grip installs without issue as butt is trimmed to length maybe a 1/2" or so. As I said above, not ideal but as shafts are replaced, it's harder to track down a replacement. Cheerz Therein lies the problem. If you tip trim a taper shaft like you would a normal parallel shaft, then you have another problem - weight. The taper shaft is a constant weight shaft - meaning reardless of trimmed butt length, the overall weight should remain the same through the set. If however you trim the tip off, you have created a lower weight shaft or what is known as descending weight for parallel sets. That affects the final build in terms of weight, flex and frequency by definition. Regardless of the fact that you can't tell a difference, there is - and it won't be anything like a correct # shaft for the correct # head. Not even close. Yeah, you can bodge it in to fit like you said, but that's all it ever will be - a bodge. The folks at TT make particular shafts for a particular reason - otherwise they would save a pile of money and just make one for every club builder to manipulate into some semblance of the correct flex, weight and frequency for the end user. Seesh. GB13 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TSH Golf Posted March 12, 2019 Share Posted March 12, 2019 Just wondering how the shaft bend profile would compare between a set of taper tip .355 iron shafts vs their .370 parallel tip counterparts. Same original shaft weight. Specifically building a single length set to 37”. So you would have to butt trim only the TT shafts, but trim 3” ( or so) off the parallel tips. Would those bend profiles look the same and play the same? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edingc Posted March 12, 2019 Share Posted March 12, 2019 3 hours ago, TSHGolf said: Just wondering how the shaft bend profile would compare between a set of taper tip .355 iron shafts vs their .370 parallel tip counterparts. Same original shaft weight. Specifically building a single length set to 37”. So you would have to butt trim only the TT shafts, but trim 3” ( or so) off the parallel tips. Would those bend profiles look the same and play the same? My educated guess would be that no, they will not play exactly the same. Similar, maybe. You'd have to test. Quote Unofficial WHS Handicap: 3.6 / Anti-Cap: 9.9 (Last Updated Sept. 1, 2024) Driver: Callaway Paradym TD (10.5°), 45.75", Fujikura Motore X F1 6X | Fitting Post 3 Wood: Cobra RadSpeed Big Tour (14.5°), 43", Fujikura Motore X F1 7X 20° Hybrid: PXG 0211 (2020 Model), 40.25", Mitsubishi Tensei AV RAW White 90X 4 Utility: Cobra KING Utility (2020 Model), 38.5", Aerotech SteelFiber i110cw Stiff 5-PW: Ben Hogan PTx Pro, 37" 7 Iron, Aerotech SteelFiber i125cw Stiff | Club Champion Fitting 50°, 54°, 58°: Edel SMS, V Grind, Nippon Modus 125 Wedge| Official Review Thread Putter: L.A.B. Golf DF 2.1, 36", 68°, Black with Custom Sightlines, BGT Stability Tour, L.A.B. Press II 3° | Unofficial Review Grips: Star Sidewinder, Undersized with Custom Tape Build-Up Ball: Snell MTB-X Optic Yellow Tracked By: Shot Scope H4 Bag: Personalized 2020 Sun Mountain Sync Riding On: Bag Boy Nitron | Official Review Thread WITB? | 2022 Reviewer Edel SMS Wedges | 2021 Reviewer Maxfli Tour and Tour X Balls | 2020 Participant #CobraConnect Challenge | 2019 Reviewer Callaway Epic Flash Driver Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RI_Redneck Posted October 14, 2019 Share Posted October 14, 2019 Hi, Thanks for your prompt reply. But if you tip trim accordingly so that the steps match the shafts in the set, won't the #3 iron match the set except for shaft weight. I'm an club maker in Australia and have done the above to my own #6 iron using a TT #3 shaft when I snapped the original shaft and notice no difference in feel or flex and hit distance taking into consideration the #5 and #7 shaft is about right. I've extracted the original #6 snapped shaft, aligned 1st lower step, marked original tip location, then tip trimmed the #3 shaft and made a couple 1/4" Dremel cuts on the tip so that the bottom of the shaft conforms to the taper. If I line up all shafts in order, the steps match, distance from ferrule to lower step reduces as clubs get shorter. For the butt end, grip installs without issue as butt is trimmed to length maybe a 1/2" or so. As I said above, not ideal but as shafts are replaced, it's harder to track down a replacement. Cheerz KenMar,Modifying shafts as you described here is fine as long as the golfer can't tell the difference, and I will admit that many ams will not. However, the club will pay subtly different and may cause it to perform slightly off from the remainder of the set. It's always best to use the shafts the way they are designed to be used. I would suggest you find a comparable brand and model ASAP so you aren't stuck doing this in the future.BTSent from my XT1585 using MyGolfSpy mobile app Quote Cobra Speedzone 10.5 – HZRDUS Yellow HC @ 46” Mizuno STZ 220 14.5- HZRDUS Smoke Yellow 70 TS @ 42.5" Mizuno STZ 220 17- HZRDUS Smoke Yellow 70 TS @ 41.5" Cobra Limit3d 4-PW- Recoil Proto 125 F4 GM Roo Midsize Cobra MIM Wedges 52, 56 & 60 – stock KBS Hi-Rev @ 35.5” Grips - Grip Master Classic Wrap Midsize Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dokes Posted December 15, 2019 Share Posted December 15, 2019 I am looking to reshaft my T300s (4-gap) with Steelfiber 90FC . The raw shafts come sized 1" longer that the specs on the T300s - ie 7 iron titleist club spec @ 37" and the 7i Aerotech shaft spec @ 38." My current set was not trimmed and true to the Titleist"(37" - 7i)spec. I play most of my clubs as "standard" length. Will butt trimming 1" on each iron effect the swing weight? or the 90CF intended shaftness/performance? Am I better off trimming or using Aerotech shafts untouched? Quote "Everyday takes figuring out all over again how to f***ing live." Calamity Jane - Deadwood. People ask me what I do for a living? I say "I answer stupid questions." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edingc Posted December 16, 2019 Share Posted December 16, 2019 21 hours ago, Dokes said: I am looking to reshaft my T300s (4-gap) with Steelfiber 90FC . The raw shafts come sized 1" longer that the specs on the T300s - ie 7 iron titleist club spec @ 37" and the 7i Aerotech shaft spec @ 38." My current set was not trimmed and true to the Titleist"(37" - 7i)spec. I play most of my clubs as "standard" length. Will butt trimming 1" on each iron effect the swing weight? or the 90CF intended shaftness/performance? Am I better off trimming or using Aerotech shafts untouched? Couple of things to consider here: 1) I have not owned Titleist clubs, but quick Googling says that they use .355 taper tips for all of their hosel designs. The SteelFiber fc90s look like they are parallel tip shafts, which won't work in taper tip hosels. Unless you're referring to the fc90cw constant weight taper tips. 2) The 37 inch length of the Titleist 7-iron is the finished playing length. Due to the bottom bore to ground measurement in the iron design (BBGM), the actual length of the shaft will be less than 37 inches. The shafts would have been trimmed to 37 inch final playing length. It would be assumed that you would trim the finished shafts to the desired playing length regardless of "raw" length. For parallel shafts, the tips are trimmed to match the iron in which the shaft will play, and then butt-trimmed to length. For taper tip shafts, the tips do not require trimming and the shafts are instead only butt-trimmed to length. I would recommend getting hooked up with a qualified local club fitter who would be able to help you through this process. Quote Unofficial WHS Handicap: 3.6 / Anti-Cap: 9.9 (Last Updated Sept. 1, 2024) Driver: Callaway Paradym TD (10.5°), 45.75", Fujikura Motore X F1 6X | Fitting Post 3 Wood: Cobra RadSpeed Big Tour (14.5°), 43", Fujikura Motore X F1 7X 20° Hybrid: PXG 0211 (2020 Model), 40.25", Mitsubishi Tensei AV RAW White 90X 4 Utility: Cobra KING Utility (2020 Model), 38.5", Aerotech SteelFiber i110cw Stiff 5-PW: Ben Hogan PTx Pro, 37" 7 Iron, Aerotech SteelFiber i125cw Stiff | Club Champion Fitting 50°, 54°, 58°: Edel SMS, V Grind, Nippon Modus 125 Wedge| Official Review Thread Putter: L.A.B. Golf DF 2.1, 36", 68°, Black with Custom Sightlines, BGT Stability Tour, L.A.B. Press II 3° | Unofficial Review Grips: Star Sidewinder, Undersized with Custom Tape Build-Up Ball: Snell MTB-X Optic Yellow Tracked By: Shot Scope H4 Bag: Personalized 2020 Sun Mountain Sync Riding On: Bag Boy Nitron | Official Review Thread WITB? | 2022 Reviewer Edel SMS Wedges | 2021 Reviewer Maxfli Tour and Tour X Balls | 2020 Participant #CobraConnect Challenge | 2019 Reviewer Callaway Epic Flash Driver Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PBW $K Posted September 30, 2020 Share Posted September 30, 2020 I'm building a set of single length clubs. I'm assuming I trim the shaft tips based on the shaft specs per iron, and then butt cut the clubs to my desired length. Thank you, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wely324 Posted March 31, 2022 Share Posted March 31, 2022 Hoping someone might be able to help me out with a combo set I’m building. I got a set of x100 pulls and in the short irons they measured just right. But the long irons are a different iron and due to a different bottom bore to ground measurement the irons are measuring just a tad too short. So I’m thinking if I soft stepped them they play softer and maybe just swingweight them a half point lighter. Or is it possible to trim the tips to have them stepped properly with the set. due to the bottom bore measurement I think I would have to trim about 1/4 of an inch off. Is that possible with a 355 taper tip. The hosels aren’t super tight so I think I have room??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hckymeyer Posted March 31, 2022 Share Posted March 31, 2022 1 hour ago, wely324 said: Hoping someone might be able to help me out with a combo set I’m building. I got a set of x100 pulls and in the short irons they measured just right. But the long irons are a different iron and due to a different bottom bore to ground measurement the irons are measuring just a tad too short. So I’m thinking if I soft stepped them they play softer and maybe just swingweight them a half point lighter. Or is it possible to trim the tips to have them stepped properly with the set. due to the bottom bore measurement I think I would have to trim about 1/4 of an inch off. Is that possible with a 355 taper tip. The hosels aren’t super tight so I think I have room??? You probably have room to do that, just be aware that it will stiffen the flex a little bit. Personally I'd either deal with the 1/4" short or just extend the long irons to achieve your desired playing length. Quote Driver: SLDR w/ Fujikura Ventus Black 3w: '16 M2 hl w/ Diamana D+ 82 5w: Launcher HB w/ HZRDUS Yellow Hybrid: 22 deg. Launcher HB w/ HZRDUS Black Irons: 5i - gap Launcher CBX w/ Nippon Modus 3 125 Wedges: 54 CBX & 58 Zipcore w/ Nippon Modus 3 125 Putter: Red 7s Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wely324 Posted April 1, 2022 Share Posted April 1, 2022 3 hours ago, hckymeyer said: You probably have room to do that, just be aware that it will stiffen the flex a little bit. Personally I'd either deal with the 1/4" short or just extend the long irons to achieve your desired playing length. Already done, long irons are curing. Soft stepping them makes the tip longer by .5”, and then trimming the tip by 3/16ths to get the length I want. The tip length is just over a quarter inch longer than it normally would be so it should play softer? No? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wely324 Posted April 1, 2022 Share Posted April 1, 2022 Not exact measurements, but I put the 7 iron on the left of the long irons, and it seems the shaft steps fall in line almost perfectly now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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