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Anyone here use grips with a RIB on the underside of the shaft?


IONEPUTT

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There are two reason I am asking this question. One is that I recently read an article stating that over 75 % of PGA Tour players are currently using theses Ribbed grips on their clubs. The second reason I'm asking is that there are NOT very many grips on the market that have this feature built into them. and when I did find some that looked like a good choice, they were rather expensive. This type of grip is NOT new, as they were the first replacement grips I ever had installed on my first set of clubs 20 years ago. While I rather liked those grips the lack of these grips on the market meant I hadn't used them in a long time, not until a few months ago in fact. After I found out how much this type of grips were selling for, and having over 30 brand new grips in my supply of parts for building clubs, I decided to see if I could figure out a way to add a rib to a standard grip and get the same results as using a ribbed grip. After a few attempts I came up with a way to add a rib to the underside of the shaft, and then just install a standard type grip on the club and get the results I wanted. The grips I had on hand cost my around $2.50 each so I saved over $6.00 per club and now I can replace the grips as they wear out for the same low cost instead of buying new higher cost ribbed grips. 

Anyone else use a ribbed grip or been thinking of trying them out?  For me, I will be using my idea of adding a rib to the underside of the shaft on ALL of my clubs from now on. They work very well and make it extremely easy to grip the club and have the face square to the target every time. . 

All my clubs are custom built with aftermarket shafts that have been spine and FLO aligned for max performance every swing. 

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I’ve used the mcc align on a couple sets when they came out. I like them but they aren’t something I need and have just gone back to regular mcc and lately the z grip.

Its more personal preference for people

Driver: PXG 0811 X+ Proto w/UST Helium 5F4

Wood: TaylorMade M5 5W w/Accra TZ5 +1/2”, TaylorMade Sim 3W w/Aldila rogue white

Hybrid: PXG Gen2 22* w/AD hybrid

Irons: PXG Gen3 0311T w/Nippon modus 120

Wedges: TaylorMade MG2 50*, Tiger grind 56/60

Putter: Scotty Caemeron Super Rat1

Ball: Titleist Prov1

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Can't really find many grips for $2 a piece;  but you can get ribbed grips from golfpride for about $6.  

 

Here is one suggestion from this site:  https://forum.mygolfspy.com/topic/39198-diy-grip-reminder-ribbing-ridge/

You can also use string:  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4UXPDsi_xSg

People also use metal coat hangers.  

 

Driver:  :ping-small: G400 Max 9* w/ KBS Tour Driven
Fairway: :titelist-small: TS3 15*  w/Project X Hzardous Smoke
Hybrids:  :titelist-small: 915H 21* w/KBS Tour Graphite Hybrid Prototype
                :titelist-small: 915H  24*  w/KBS Tour Graphite Hybrid Prototype        
Irons:      :honma:TR20V 6-11 w/Vizard TR20-85 Graphite
Wedge:  :titleist-small: 54/12D, 60/8M w/:Accra iWedge 90 Graphite
Putter:   Sacks Parente MC 3 Stripe

Backup Putters:  :odyssey-small: Milled Collection RSX 2, :seemore-small: mFGP2, :cameron-small: Futura 5W, :taylormade-small:TM-180

Member:  MGS Hitsquad since 2017697979773_DSCN2368(Custom).JPG.a1a25f5e430d9eebae93c5d652cbd4b9.JPG

 

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I use 1/16" aluminum welding rod for a rib. Much better than a piece of string, which goes flat after a few days of using the club. The aluminum is light enough to not effect the weight or swing weight of the club to make a difference. Some have posted that just use a rib grip and save the trouble. Problem is not all golfers like the small selection of rib grips on the market, and they cost MORE than round grips. And if you use a rib grip, you have to pay more for them every time you re-grip your clubs. By adding a rib to the shaft, it's a one time deal and you can save money on new grips when they get worn and you can use ANY grip you prefer, you are not limited to what is on the market.

As for finding grips for $2, you just have to know where to look. I buy my grips from HIREKO.  Golf and get them when they have a closeout sale on a grip that I like to play. Last time I purchased grips this way they were around $2.50 each and I got enough to last me for a real long time at a great price per grip. Anyone that do their own re-gripping of clubs can add a rib to any grip they happen to prefer, and save a lot of money over time. 

All my clubs are custom built with aftermarket shafts that have been spine and FLO aligned for max performance every swing. 

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1/16" is 0.0625 inches.  The equipment rules say:

Quote

“Slightly raised” is interpreted to mean that the maximum and minimum diameters of the cross-section at any point must not differ by more than 0.040 inches

So you're a little bigger rib than what the Rules allow.

6 hours ago, IONEPUTT said:

and they cost MORE than round grips

This really isn't necessarily accurate, the Golf Pride Tour Velvet sells for the same price with the rib as it does without.

Edited by DaveP043

:titleist-small: Irons Titleist T200, AMT Red stiff

:callaway-small:Rogue SubZero, GD YS-Six X

:mizuno-small: T22 54 and 58 wedges

:mizuno-small: 7-wood

:Sub70: 5-wood

 B60 G5i putter

Right handed

Reston, Virginia

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I was not talking about the same grip from the same company costing more. I was talking about how a person can find other brands of grips that do not have a rib that cost a lot less then those high dollar grips from companies like Golf Pride. I have been using less known brand grips for years and they cost a lot less while performing as well if not better than the top brands. Black Widow makes very good grips and when they go on sale they can be purchased for less the $3.00 a grip. 

All my clubs are custom built with aftermarket shafts that have been spine and FLO aligned for max performance every swing. 

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Yes, I like the Winn grips with a mild line. You can always build up the tape on the back. 

@prilltx

Golf is challenging, R U doing the work...or hoping 4 different outcomes?

Titleist C16 irons

Vokey 55°, 60° wedges

Cleveland 50°, 46° wedges

Ping Sigma2 41 inch putter

Titleist D2 driver, 904 / 908 3 and 5 wood 

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Not as concerned about the line as I am the ability to play in the texas summer and not knock your partners out. 

@prilltx

Golf is challenging, R U doing the work...or hoping 4 different outcomes?

Titleist C16 irons

Vokey 55°, 60° wedges

Cleveland 50°, 46° wedges

Ping Sigma2 41 inch putter

Titleist D2 driver, 904 / 908 3 and 5 wood 

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The BestGrips I use have a seam on them. As for “on the underside” not exactly. My putter grips the seam is on the underside but the others are clocked a bit. But I love it. I know exactly where the face is pointed by feel. I will say that I am in the process of a swing change, anyone that has read one of my posts in the last 10 year will be shocked, I sure, but the left hand is weaker and the right is stronger. This would cause major issues with these grips, but the only club currently with that grip is my driver. Make that WAS my driver because I got a new shaft today. I’ll be posting more on this next week after I complete my test on Sunday. 
 

All my clubs are relatively new and I haven’t felt the need to replace them with my stash of leather grips. Except my putters. All four of them have best grips on them. 

:ping-small: G430LST 10.5° on     T P T    POWER 18 Hi Driver 

:ping-small: G430MAX 3w  on     T P T    POWER 18 Hi Fairway 

:ping-small: G425 3H on     T P T    POWER 18 Hi Hybrid 

:ping-small: G425 4H on :kbs: TGH 80S 

:ping-small: i525 5-U on :kbs: TGI 90S 

:titleist-small: SM8 54 & 60 on :kbs: Wedge 

:L.A.B.:DF2.1 on :accra: White

:titelist-small: ProV1  

:918457628_PrecisionPro: Precision Pro  NX7 Pro

All Iron grips are BestGrips Micro-Perforated Mid

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