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Rookie player do i nut up and go blades?


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Ive recently had two years off due to  damaged intercostal muscles and a blown shoulder and im now looking at returning to the fold, now this probably seems like a stupid question but what about procuring some blades this time around, i understand the difficulty in ball striking but my thoughts are if i learn on the hardest tool and i dont care about progress being slow or frustrating surely this is the way to go. on this i only have a limited budget at the moment (very limited :P) so i would like some suggestions on some short irons and wedges, thanks guys cant believe i didn't know this forum existed luckily a mate told me last week. 

It's sure to be a hilarious journey filled with with lost balls and shanked Drives

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Posted (edited)

Welcome! This really depends on why you play golf. If your goal is to shoot the lowest scores possible then the best advice is to go with the most help your eyes can take. I haven’t done it this season but have in the past surveyed the top statistical iron players on tour and generally half or more don’t play blades. 
 

So my gut answer is - don’t - particularly with a limited budgeted - something like Srixon MK 7’s (great players iron - last generation so you can get them for a good price) might be very nice for you. 
 

If however you’ve always wanted to play blades and that’s what will bring enjoyment for you - go for it! 
 

I hope this advice makes sense and be sure to tell us however you go. Best wishes on your ongoing recovery. 

Edited by revkev

Driver: Taylor Made Stealth 2 10.5 Diamana S plus 60  R flex   - 44.25 

Fairways:  Ping G410 5, 7, 9 wood  Alta CB red 65 R flex

Hybrid:  Ping G410  26 degree  Alta CB Red 70 R flex 

Irons: Ping G430  7-PW, 45, 50 Alta CB black 65 soft R flex 

Wedges:  Ping 195 S54, E58

Wedges and irons are - 1/2” and one degree flat 

Putter: Sacks Parente Duke 32.5”

Ball: Titleist Pro VI or Callaway Chrome Soft X ls

 

While not at the same time I was fit for every club in my bag as well as the Pro VI ball. I use the chrome soft x ls on my league course.  It has much softer softer greens than the club that I belong to. 

I’m on a mission to shoot my age - lifetime lowest round is 66 and I’m currently 67. 

 

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15 hours ago, Hindsy1987 said:

if i learn on the hardest tool and i dont care about progress being slow or frustrating surely this is the way to go. 

Why can’t you work on better contact with a more forgiving club?  Using something like foot spray to check face contact you will get the same type of feedback as a true players iron. You can use alignment rods set up vertically to make sure you are starting the ball within desired window.   IMO, it isn’t the club, but the practice.  

Driver:  :ping-small: G400 Max 9* w/ KBS Tour Driven
Fairway: :callaway-logo-1: Paradym AI Smoke Max HL  16.5* w/MCA TENSEI AV Series Blue
Hybrids:  :titelist-small: 915H 21* w/KBS Tour Graphite Hybrid Prototype
                :titelist-small: 915H  24*  w/KBS Tour Graphite Hybrid Prototype        
Irons:      :honma:TR20V 6-11 w/Vizard TR20-85 Graphite
Wedge:  :titleist-small: 54/12D, 60/8M w/Accra iWedge 90 Graphite
Putter:   more-golf-logo.png Render w/VA Composites Baddazz 

Backup Putters:  Sacks Parente MC 3 Stripe,  :odyssey-small: Milled Collection RSX 2

Member:  MGS Hitsquad since 2017697979773_DSCN2368(Custom).JPG.a1a25f5e430d9eebae93c5d652cbd4b9.JPG

 

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Striking the ball with blades isn't an issue. They're not going to help in that department though. They will be less forgiving on off center strikes. I'm not saying don't get them. I love the way they look. I've tried hitting them. When flushed it was beautiful. However, when not flushed, my fingers cussed me a bit. I will say, I would stay away from the "game improvement" irons. Maybe look for a players distance with forged heads. Due to your limited budget, I would say that ebay would be your best bet when shopping. When I went for my recent fitting, I just looked at all the tour pros dumping their blades for players distance. That told me all I needed to know. But, if you're really after a set then go for it. You can learn on anything. As I always say, you do you.

Driver - Taylormade Stealth 2 Plus 9 degree @ 44.5"

3 wood - Cobra LTDx max 

5 wood - Cobra LTDx

Taylormade P770 4-PW

Mizuno S22 wedges - 50, 54 and 58

Putter - Odyssey white hot OG 1

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9 hours ago, cnosil said:

Why can’t you work on better contact with a more forgiving club?  Using something like foot spray to check face contact you will get the same type of feedback as a true players iron. You can use alignment rods set up vertically to make sure you are starting the ball within desired window.   IMO, it isn’t the club, but the practice.  

I cant really fault that logic my problem is my swing arc if anything i did just see Rick Sheils latest Titilest review for the T350 and they look amazing well out of my budget though haha, can you recommend any pros i should look at to stop a high arc on the drive and wedges im fine as soon as i full out a short or long iron its getting shanked  

It's sure to be a hilarious journey filled with with lost balls and shanked Drives

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11 hours ago, Hindsy1987 said:

I cant really fault that logic my problem is my swing arc if anything i did just see Rick Sheils latest Titilest review for the T350 and they look amazing well out of my budget though haha, can you recommend any pros i should look at to stop a high arc on the drive and wedges im fine as soon as i full out a short or long iron its getting shanked  

I a, assuming that high arc means that you are topping the ball.  Any pro will work with you to fix contact.  If you are looking for online instruction that will give you drills, maybe take a look at Adam Young.   He has online instruction to help work on face contact and low point which seem to be what you want to focus on.  he has some free material that you can download/review to see if you like his approach.  
 

https://www.adamyounggolf.com/the-strike-plan/

Driver:  :ping-small: G400 Max 9* w/ KBS Tour Driven
Fairway: :callaway-logo-1: Paradym AI Smoke Max HL  16.5* w/MCA TENSEI AV Series Blue
Hybrids:  :titelist-small: 915H 21* w/KBS Tour Graphite Hybrid Prototype
                :titelist-small: 915H  24*  w/KBS Tour Graphite Hybrid Prototype        
Irons:      :honma:TR20V 6-11 w/Vizard TR20-85 Graphite
Wedge:  :titleist-small: 54/12D, 60/8M w/Accra iWedge 90 Graphite
Putter:   more-golf-logo.png Render w/VA Composites Baddazz 

Backup Putters:  Sacks Parente MC 3 Stripe,  :odyssey-small: Milled Collection RSX 2

Member:  MGS Hitsquad since 2017697979773_DSCN2368(Custom).JPG.a1a25f5e430d9eebae93c5d652cbd4b9.JPG

 

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11 hours ago, cnosil said:

I a, assuming that high arc means that you are topping the ball.  Any pro will work with you to fix contact.  If you are looking for online instruction that will give you drills, maybe take a look at Adam Young.   He has online instruction to help work on face contact and low point which seem to be what you want to focus on.  he has some free material that you can download/review to see if you like his approach.  
 

https://www.adamyounggolf.com/the-strike-plan/

You are 100% on the money i have issues with topping the ball,  i played cricket for many years so the idea of striking down on the ball i over compensate and think im going to hit the ground instead i top it, thanks heaps for the advise 

It's sure to be a hilarious journey filled with with lost balls and shanked Drives

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Have played larger game improvement clubs mostly since I am old and high handicap but recently went to some more player type irons. Ran into a problem yesterday, was 90* when we finished and I got tired towards the end struggled with my irons for the last four holes, messed up a decent round. Probably should stick to morning rounds this time of year. Not really an irons problem but a reality problem. 

Driver -  Callaway GBB Epic

Fairway - Cobra Baffler 5W

Hybrid - TaylorMade Rescue mid 2,4,5h

Irons - Cobra Baffler XL 7-P

GW - Cobra Baffler XL

 SW - King Cobra os

Putter - Evnroll ER2

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In Australia sometimes all we get are morning sessions 😅 I've been looking into virtual golf for that exact reason 

It's sure to be a hilarious journey filled with with lost balls and shanked Drives

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On 6/30/2024 at 5:58 PM, Hindsy1987 said:

Ive recently had two years off due to  damaged intercostal muscles and a blown shoulder and im now looking at returning to the fold, now this probably seems like a stupid question but what about procuring some blades this time around, i understand the difficulty in ball striking but my thoughts are if i learn on the hardest tool and i dont care about progress being slow or frustrating surely this is the way to go. on this i only have a limited budget at the moment (very limited :P) so i would like some suggestions on some short irons and wedges, thanks guys cant believe i didn't know this forum existed luckily a mate told me last week. 

do it, if you have the patience and mental fortitude, or you want to improve your patience or fortitude, and you don’t care about your score, and you want to make working the ball a big part of your game. you’re going to have a really rough learning curve, but if you ever make it to the top of the mountain, you will definitely have earned your place. IMO. Also, take a virtual fist bump 👊🏼 for even having the audacity to consider the path less taken.

D       ______ Ping G400
F{3|15} ______ Cobra King F9
X{3|19} ______ Ping G425 Hybrid 
I{5|24} {6|27} {7|31} {8|35} {9|40} Callaway Apex CF16

W{45|50} _____ Vokey SM8
W{54|58} _____ Vokey SM9
P ____________ L.A.B. DF 2.1 w/ Stability

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@Hindsy1987 to be clear I don’t know you But frankly, as much as you believe “I dont care about progress being slow or frustrating” at some point you won’t enjoy playing the game because you’ll be posting weak scores and you’ll be hitting a lot of bad shots in front of your playing partners. It will be hard for you to build confidence in your game or measuring progress. The excuse of “I’m playing blades” will become a tired refrain.
 

I think you’re better off finding clubs that suit your abilities and as your game grows then trade and move up in clubs. Just think how much club technology changes year over year. 

Driver: :taylormade-small: Stealth2

3W: :taylormade-small: Stealth2

4H: :taylormade-small: Stealth 2

Irons 4I-9I:  :titleist-small: T200

Wedges P, 48: :titleist-small: T200

Wedges 54, 58: :titleist-small: Vokey SM9

Putter:  :odyssey-small: O Works #1 Black

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two other arguments for going with blades. first, there is little chance you will hit the part of the face necessary to generate a good shot without swinging easy and smooth. that may be helpful in your situation where you are recovering from a musculoskeletal issue.

secondly, you mention that low price is important to you. because blades between the different brands are so similar, you can probably get some dtc blades, like sub 70 or newline, for relatively cheap, and they would be closer to what you would get from mizuno or cobra blades than the players distance or game improvement clubs from those brands.

on the other hand, golf is hard and blades make it harder. if you go with the tm p790 or the mizuno mp 245’s you get gorgeous, blade-esque irons that will serve you well for a decade or more, which makes them a good value as well, even at their increased cost.

D       ______ Ping G400
F{3|15} ______ Cobra King F9
X{3|19} ______ Ping G425 Hybrid 
I{5|24} {6|27} {7|31} {8|35} {9|40} Callaway Apex CF16

W{45|50} _____ Vokey SM8
W{54|58} _____ Vokey SM9
P ____________ L.A.B. DF 2.1 w/ Stability

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On 6/30/2024 at 3:58 PM, Hindsy1987 said:

Ive recently had two years off due to  damaged intercostal muscles and a blown shoulder and im now looking at returning to the fold, now this probably seems like a stupid question but what about procuring some blades this time around, i understand the difficulty in ball striking but my thoughts are if i learn on the hardest tool and i dont care about progress being slow or frustrating surely this is the way to go. on this i only have a limited budget at the moment (very limited :P) so i would like some suggestions on some short irons and wedges, thanks guys cant believe i didn't know this forum existed luckily a mate told me last week. 

I have physical issue also.  Curved spine.  Very curved.  Lost lots of time due to various injuries.  Disability 3 full years.  Now I golf!  I got fit 2 of my 3 iron sets.  First 2 were modern cavity back cast.  I finally took lessons.  I learned that I wanted a narrow sole for accurate hitting and direction, which is hard to do with the wide bottom cavity backs.  I decided to make a split set, go for a fitting for the short irons 8-9-PW, and stick with the last cavity model that Nike made, Vapor Fly.  I hoped I could hit Mizuno blades.  Not quite but I got fitted for Ping I 500s on a good graphite shaft, the Recoils.  The I 500 is a forged face welded to a well designed, well engineered body.  Loved them so much that I decided to sell off my full set of the Nikes, and eventually added the 6 and 7 Ping I 500 irons.  For clubs longer than that, I had a bargain bin find, a 24 degree forged hollow body Mizuno Fli-HI.  And a MIzuno JPX hybrid 5.  I don't see me getting different irons for a long time.  I might re-shaft to Aerotech Steelfiber but that is a luxury doo-dah I don't need to do.  I am not scoring below 100 yet because I doodle around on a few holes, learning to try the hard shots until I get good at them.

Bottom line, is 1.  get fitted if you can, and hopefully better than Dicks.  They are nice but not like getting a fully skilled experienced PGA fitter.  2.  Start like I did with the 8-9-pw.  Never mind a full set.  You can do just like I did, add longer clubs if you are in love.   3.  I also highly suggest Mizuno forged wedges.  Again, I bot some, found true love in their 2018 model the S5.  Easy to use, accurate, easy to find used ones in good condition.  Mizuno makes Grain Flow Forging.  They re-heat and hammer the billet of steel to get the molecules all lined up in parallel.  I don't think anybody else does this.  Vokeys are Titleist (bob vokey is their employee) very good and they pay the pros but I have stuck with the Mizu and love them more and more every round I play.

Hope this helps.  Don't let my crummy scores bother you.  I finally retired and now can work on scoring, and I play on a pretty hard course with lots of marsh where if I roll off the fairway, so long, no rough, I'm in the drink.    

#1  PXG 0211 10.5 deg, Evnflo Riptide CB 40 gram A flex.

3W: Callaway Steelhead Xr,  Tensei Blue CK 55 gram A flex.

5W : Titleist TSi 1,    Aldila Ascent 40 regular flex.

Driving Iron: Mizuno MP 18 MMC Fli-Hi 3i 18 degree, Recoil 95 reg flex.

4 iron:  GFF Mizuno Fly-Hi, 24 degree forged hollow body,  Aerotech Steelfiber 😍😃💥.

5 Hybrid: Mizuno (2017) JPX Fli-Hi wave tech, Recoil ESX 460 reg flex.

Irons: 6 - PW: Ping I 500, on Recoil Smacwrap ES 760, reg flex.

Wedges: 2 x Mizuno S5 52/09.  1@ 50 deg, 1@ 54 deg; New (July 2024) Mizu ES 21, 58 x 08, jet black.

Chipper: Don Martin "Up n In" brass/bronze. 🙂

Putter: Odyssey Stroke Lab "R" Ball, face balanced, with 2 piece Stroke Lab multi material shaft.🙃💘

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On 6/30/2024 at 3:58 PM, Hindsy1987 said:

Ive recently had two years off due to  damaged intercostal muscles and a blown shoulder and im now looking at returning to the fold, now this probably seems like a stupid question but what about procuring some blades this time around, i understand the difficulty in ball striking but my thoughts are if i learn on the hardest tool and i dont care about progress being slow or frustrating surely this is the way to go. on this i only have a limited budget at the moment (very limited :P) so i would like some suggestions on some short irons and wedges, thanks guys cant believe i didn't know this forum existed luckily a mate told me last week. 

Hi Hindsy.  You reacted to my posted reply to you, using the fire symbol.  Is that good or bad?  

#1  PXG 0211 10.5 deg, Evnflo Riptide CB 40 gram A flex.

3W: Callaway Steelhead Xr,  Tensei Blue CK 55 gram A flex.

5W : Titleist TSi 1,    Aldila Ascent 40 regular flex.

Driving Iron: Mizuno MP 18 MMC Fli-Hi 3i 18 degree, Recoil 95 reg flex.

4 iron:  GFF Mizuno Fly-Hi, 24 degree forged hollow body,  Aerotech Steelfiber 😍😃💥.

5 Hybrid: Mizuno (2017) JPX Fli-Hi wave tech, Recoil ESX 460 reg flex.

Irons: 6 - PW: Ping I 500, on Recoil Smacwrap ES 760, reg flex.

Wedges: 2 x Mizuno S5 52/09.  1@ 50 deg, 1@ 54 deg; New (July 2024) Mizu ES 21, 58 x 08, jet black.

Chipper: Don Martin "Up n In" brass/bronze. 🙂

Putter: Odyssey Stroke Lab "R" Ball, face balanced, with 2 piece Stroke Lab multi material shaft.🙃💘

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... @Hindsy1987 golf clubs are simply tools to accomplish a goal. I am always a little chagrinned when some think they "should" play MB's. I can't imagine a runner wearing dress shoes that look great but don't make running any easier. The goal is to find clubs that enable you to hit your best shots. Few can do that with anything more demanding than a Players CB/Multi Material iron. And plenty of low to + index players use GI irons. You want your irons to enhance your swing not make your swing enhance your irons. 

... Thankfully you have lots of choices. 👍

Driver:     :taylormade-small:    Qi10 10.5* ... AutoFlex Dream 7 SF405
Fairway:   :taylormade-small:   Qi10 5 wood ... Kai'Li Blue 70r
Hybrids:  :ping-small:        G430 Hybrid 22*... Alta Hy70r 
Irons:       :taylormade-small:    P770 5-pw ... Steelfiber i80r
                  :taylormade-small:    TP UDi 4 ... Steelfiber i80r
Wedges:  :taylormade-small:     MG3 46*/50*/54* MG4 58* ... Steelfiber i95r
Putter:     :EVNROLL:     Custom 5.1 (no alignment)  33" 
Ball:          :taylormade-small:     '24 TP5x/Maxfli Tour X 

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If you don't care about your scores then go ahead.  @chisag and I have shared this thought over the years.  I could sum it up as succinctly as: play as forgiving a club as possible to allow you to play your best.

But more importantly, that makes the game fun.

  • PING G400 LST Mitsubishi Tensei White 60X
  • TaylorMade SIM2 3 wood Fujilkura Ventus Blue 7-X
  • Titleist U505 2 Tensei 1K Black 85 X
  • Titleist T100 4-P Nippon Modus 3 120X
  • PING S159 50-S 55-H 59-T DG X100
  • L.A.B. MEZZ Max Broom Accra 47" 79.5*
  • Srixon Z-Star XV 

Currently testing the 2024 PING S159 wedges…

https://forum.mygolfspy.com/topic/63483-testers-announced-ping-s159-wedges/

Was testing, still loving the 2023 Titleist T100 Irons 4-P

https://forum.mygolfspy.com/topic/60456-titleist-t-series-irons-2023-forum-review/

 

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  • 3 weeks later...

Gave up on trying the better smaller irons, I’m just not consistent enough for them. Wouldn’t have thought so but had more problems on par 3’s, and they weren’t even blades. I understand that at my age I’m not going to get better. 

Driver -  Callaway GBB Epic

Fairway - Cobra Baffler 5W

Hybrid - TaylorMade Rescue mid 2,4,5h

Irons - Cobra Baffler XL 7-P

GW - Cobra Baffler XL

 SW - King Cobra os

Putter - Evnroll ER2

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Purchase a used mid-iron blade or one from a set you're considering and hit it for a few weeks during your range sessions. It will tell you a lot before taking the dive into a full set of clubs. Also, in that short time you will get plenty of feedback, if that's what you're looking for - through your hands, wrists, arms, as well as flight distance and direction. Be mentally prepared to take a step - or three - backwards before you progress, if you do at all. That said, who's to say you don't have some success? It'll be based on a heavy dose of determination coupled with mental and physical ability, so if you feel you have those things in abundance, or can form them, do what makes you feel best. It's your game to mold and play.

As mentioned by others, there are some really solid CB's on the market that have a blade-ish appearance but come with the forgiveness of modern tech. A blade hasn't evolved too much, and "forgiveness" is not usually in the same conversation unless it's to say there isn't any. Let's be honest, they are not manufactured for the beginner that wants to improve a 20 handicap.

Flushing a blade...nothing better. But how often you obtain that feeling will be a direct result of your own ability, or inability, for that matter. Best of luck with your choice.

WITB
D - Callaway Rogue ST Max LS 9*
3w - Ping G400 14.5*
5w - Ping G400 17.5* (adj. to 18.1*)
2i - Wilson Staff Utility 18*
4i - Wilson Staff Utility 24*
5i-PW - Wilson Staff Blades (2019)
50* - Wilson Staff ZM (8* bounce)
56* - Wilson Staff HT (10* bounce)
P - Scotty Cameron Special Select Newport 2

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One of the upsides of blades, especially older model traditional blades, is the loft through the set. If you look in my bag you might think “guy plays blades.”  My irons are Mizuno MP-27 5/PW.  They are a 20 year old, shallow “cavity blade” with a 27* 5 iron, 31* 6 iron, etc…  I can’t hit a modern, forgiving 5 iron with a 21*/22* loft.  I don’t generate the speed to get a 21* iron airborne consistently, but I do get my 27* 5 iron launched consistently.  I only hit it 150/155 yards but that’s why I carry a 25* hybrid.  Most of the Mizuno MP line has weaker lofts, ie 27* five iron.  So do several releases of the Titleist AP2 line.  AP2s aren’t blades, but they’re close.  I guess it all comes down to what you can hit well.  Newer forgiving, game improvement clubs are great but there may be better options for some players with moderate swing speeds.  

Taylormade Sim2 Max 10.5*, Fujikura Air Speeder

Adams 2021 Tight Lies 3W

Adams Idea Pro Tour Prototype Hybrids 20* & 23*

Mizuno MP-59 5/PW

Cleveland 588 51*, 56*, 60*

Cleveland HB 11

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Interesting question. I'd probably look for some game improvement irons that play like blades. Several options out there. New technologies sure help nowadays. If the tour pros play em, I'd say they're worth looking into. 

Callaway Epic Speed 9*

Callaway Rouge ST Pro

Oddessy Rossie OG

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