VanTrago Posted March 24, 2019 Share Posted March 24, 2019 When it comes to shot shaping, I keep reading that blades are better than cavity backs. Yet I have not found a club fitter that can name even one shot that isn't easier or as easy to make with a cavity back. In fact, it seems to me that the only reason why one should even consider buying a set of blades, is for practice. Why? Because blades are so much more sensitive to off-center hits. By letting you know immediately every time you miss the sweet spot, they encourage you to pay more attention to hitting on-center. Off-center hits probably cost us more through-the-green strokes than any other problem. But then, how easy is it to switch back and forth between your practice blades and your tournament cavity backs? I've been wrong before. (Just ask my wife!) If I'm wrong here, I'd like to be informed and convinced. Link to comment
ZenGolfer Posted March 24, 2019 Share Posted March 24, 2019 I dont buy that blades are better for shot shaping. Any time you hit a round object with a square obeject, you are going to impart spin on the round obeject and you get shot shaping. The design of the square object doesnt really matter. "I suppose its better to be a master of 7 than to be vaguely familiar with 14." - Chick Evans Whats in my Sun Mountain 2.5+ stand bag? Woods: Tommy Armour Atomic 10.5* Hybrid: Mizuno MP Fli-Hi 3H Irons: Mizuno T-Zoid True 5, 7 and 9-irons Wedge: Mizuno S18 54* and Top Flite chipper Putter: Mizuno Bettinardi A-02 Ball: Maxfli Tour X Link to comment
silver & black Posted March 24, 2019 Share Posted March 24, 2019 To start..... you have to know HOW to shape a shot. That leaves 99% of us out (no matter what we say or think). Sure, all of us have a natural shape, but that's just it.... it's natural, not something we do on purpose. Usually when we try to shape a shot on purpose, it ends up bad...lol. So, I don't know if blades are easier or not, because all I can do is hook and slice if I try on purpose...lol. Link to comment
bens197 Posted March 24, 2019 Share Posted March 24, 2019 The geometry of non-blades is designed to impart backspin as a primary motion on a ball. Look at any non-blade geared for mid to higher handicap golfers and the weight is around the sole and perimeter. It’s designed for forgiveness and lift / backspin. When the sole focus (no pun intended) is weight beneath the ball, the benefit to that golfer is a shot that will fly high and straight. So short answer, blades will make it easier to shape shots by their design. Sent from my iPhone using MyGolfSpy Titleist TSi3 Fujikura Speeder NX Blue 60X TaylorMade SIM2 3 wood Fujilkura Ventus Blue 7-X Titleist U505 2 Tensei 1K Black 85 X Titleist T100 4-P Nippon Modus 3 120X PING S159 50-S 55-H 59-T DG X100 Vokey SM8 50, SM9 54 & 60 Nippon Modus 3 120s L.A.B. MEZZ Max Broom Accra 47" 79.5* Srixon Z-Star XV Currently testing the 2024 PING S159 wedges… https://forum.mygolfspy.com/topic/63483-testers-announced-ping-s159-wedges/ Was testing, still loving the 2023 Titleist T100 Irons 4-P https://forum.mygolfspy.com/topic/60456-titleist-t-series-irons-2023-forum-review/ Link to comment
SteddyGolf Posted March 24, 2019 Share Posted March 24, 2019 Last year I tested and reviewed the i210 irons made by PING. I played the i210s for several months before returning to my Mizuno MP-5s. In the review I noted how insanely straight I hit the ball with the PING irons. Even when I tried to work the ball they stayed relatively straight and high. Can you move a ball left or right with a game improvement design? Yes, but the move may be more subtle than what you desire. In my humble opinion any club that will help you to hit the ball high and straight is a better choice over clubs that may allow you to “work” the ball. For the overwhelming majority of every day Golfers a bladed iron is not the best choice. The number of times during a round of golf that requires a “worked” shot is marginal. Pick your target, hit it straight, two putt and write down a Par. If you are a scratch Golfer playing competitive Golf then the ability to get as close to a well placed pin in the right corner of the green is extremely important. A blade for those guys/girls makes sense. The rest of us should really play clubs that are easiest to hit straight. Sent from my iPhone using MyGolfSpy Miura MB 502 Irons ping G400 Driver Cobra F7 3 wood Mizuno putter Mizuno Wedges. Link to comment
PlaidJacket Posted March 24, 2019 Share Posted March 24, 2019 So far I like Steddy's reply. I too am a low single digit hcp'r. Do I "work" the ball? Not unless I have to and even then that usually means me hitting a fade/slice or a low running hook to get out of trouble. My natural shot shape is a draw. When the pin is back right for example; I usually don't try to alter my swing for a fade. I hit my natural and comfortable shot - two putt and move on. I play cavity back irons and can shape the ball right or ...left if I have too. I also know exactly where on the face I struck it. I don't need a blade to learn or hone my ball striking. My irons already provide plenty of feedback. My Sun Mountain bag currently includes: 771CSI 5i - PW and PFC Micro Tour-c 52°, 56°, 60 wedges EXS 10.5*, 929-HS FW4 16.5* Willimette w/GolfPride Contour Link to comment
alfriday101 Posted March 24, 2019 Share Posted March 24, 2019 Regarding blades for practice to improve center hits: I am a big believer in improving awareness (especially non-judgmental awareness) as a key to golf improvement. Learning the difference between a center hit and ones on the toe or heel is important to improve. So is learning the difference in fat, thin and solid. Nevertheless, practicing with blades is an expensive and not terribly effective way to increase that awareness. Yes, you become vaguely aware of how the different strikes feel with the blades, but you still have to learn that difference with your gamers. Instead of spending hundreds of dollars (or thousands) on blades, a $10 can of foot spray powder will do the same thing. Buy a can of foot spray. Go to the range and spray a straight line on the range perpendicular to the target. Hit shots with the ball resting on the line and notice after each shot where the club made contact with the ground and ball. Pay attention to what you are doing for the strikes that are past the line and those where you make ground contact. Intentionally hit the ball thin. Intentionally hit the ball fat. Then hit the ball flush. Notice--become aware--of how the swings feel different. Spray the face of the club. Intentionally hit toe shots. Check the face after each shot to see where on the face you made contact. The ball will leave a clear impact print in the foot spray. Then intentionally hit heel shots. Then center. Then vary it, heel, toe, center. Be aware of what is going on with your movement on the different shots. Just be aware--don't judge it as good or bad. Doing this will improve your club face control and swing. Link to comment
VanTrago Posted March 24, 2019 Author Share Posted March 24, 2019 3 hours ago, bens197 said: The geometry of non-blades is designed to impart backspin as a primary motion on a ball. Look at any non-blade geared for mid to higher handicap golfers and the weight is around the sole and perimeter. It’s designed for forgiveness and lift / backspin. When the sole focus (no pun intended) is weight beneath the ball, the benefit to that golfer is a shot that will fly high and straight. So short answer, blades will make it easier to shape shots by their design. Sent from my iPhone using MyGolfSpy The purpose of a cavity back is to distribute the mass of the club head further from the sweet spot so as to increase its rotational moment of inertia about its center of gravity. In essences, that increase the size of the sweet spot. Now, in doing that, a club designer may choose to move the center of the gravity down at the same time, and that does create what most manufactures sell as a game improvement iron. But a cavity back with its center of gravity not shifted, is still a game improvement iron. Cavity back irons are also made that have their centers of gravity in the same relative positions as blades. It is those clubs that I believe work as well or better for shot shaping than blades. To shape a shot requires applying unusual spin to the ball. To apply side spin, you strike the ball with a slightly glancing blow. To control the shot height you adjust the dynamic loft angle; you do that by shifting your stance laterally relative to the ball or/and by tailoring your swing for the shot. But you still want the club to meet the ball at its sweet spot. Actually, I see no reason why you couldn't do that at least as well with any cavity back as with any blade. Blades can be made with their centers of gravity just as low as can game improvement clubs. In fact, many of today's blades are designed that way. Link to comment
fixyurdivot Posted March 24, 2019 Share Posted March 24, 2019 Interesting topic/question. Simply based on watching how many tour players play with non-forged and cavity back irons, and seeing them create various draw, fade, stinger, etc. ball flights on demand, suggests to me the answer is not much. G410 Plus, 9 Degree Driver G400 SFT, 16 Degree 3w G400 SFT, 19 Degree 5w ZX5 Irons 4-AW Glide 2.0 56 Degree SW (removed from double secret probation ) ER5v Putter (Official Review) AI-One Milled Seven T CH (Official Review) Link to comment
Shankster Posted March 24, 2019 Share Posted March 24, 2019 They are good for shaving, chopping vegetables, things of glory...I suck at science so I’ll let The Scientists tell you. My personal experiences point to yes. Could be all in my head though. Link to comment
null Posted March 24, 2019 Share Posted March 24, 2019 Not at all. It's a myth more than anything. Shaping shots is about controlling the face and the path. Nothing more, nothing less. Crossfield has a video on it if you want more information Link to comment
RickyBobby_PR Posted March 25, 2019 Share Posted March 25, 2019 It’s about face to path control. The lower doing GI clubs will make one have to work harder to move a ball as both clubs and balls these days are designed to go straight. im still baffled by the blades are the best for practice theory. Is feedback better to know if a shot was missed off the center? Yes. If one doesn’t know how to fix the swing go get center contact they aren’t going to improve. Foot spray does the same thing on any club. Driver: PXG 0811 X+ Proto w/UST Helium 5F4 Wood: TaylorMade M5 5W w/Accra TZ5 +1/2”, TaylorMade Sim 3W w/Aldila rogue white Hybrid: PXG Gen2 22* w/AD hybrid Irons: PXG Gen3 0311T w/Nippon modus 120 Wedges: TaylorMade MG2 50*, Tiger grind 56/60 Putter: Scotty Caemeron Super Rat1 Ball: Titleist Prov1 Link to comment
pulledabill Posted March 25, 2019 Share Posted March 25, 2019 I worked hard last spring and early summer and taught myself how to move the ball around with my old Eye 2's. While not a blade, they were very workable. I made the mistake of going to 716 AP1's as they are too forgiving and I can't work the ball unless it is a big cut or draw which I can do with any club. I will be updating to something that I can move a little or a lot when needed. DRIVER: Cobra F9 10.5 Tensei AV Blue 65g 3W- Callway XR PRO 16 stiff 5W- Alpha- Mitsubishi Diamana Redboard w/band Irons- Mizuno JPX 919 Tours with S KBS Tour shafts Hyrbid- TM 4h mid-rescue Vokey- Vokey SM5 51 degrees, SM7 Wedges 54 and 58 1/2 half 3 degrees upright Putter- Taylor Made Rossa Monza Mini Spider Ball-ProV1 and AVX Link to comment
TR1PTIK Posted March 25, 2019 Share Posted March 25, 2019 I think to boil it down to blades or cavity backs is a generalization that should be clarified because a "players" cavity-back isn't going to be substantially more difficult to shape than a blade. However, GI, SGI, and perhaps even some players distance irons will be more difficult to shape - at least to the same extent. This is all by design as @bens197 described. The one part he left out that also makes a huge difference is offset. When you introduce significant amounts of offset, you make it harder to move the ball right. I saw @jlukes posted Crossfield's video on the subject and while I do like Crossfield and generally agree with him, I think he lacks self-awareness in the fact that his abilities with a a golf club far exceed that of most golfers. So while I agree that design can be overridden by the player, it's not a very likely scenario for most of us - unless of course it's by mistake. Driver: ST190 9.5* Fujikura Atmos Blue 5S Fairway Wood: ST190 15* Fujikura Atmos Blue 6S Hybrid: CLK 17* Fujikura Speeder EVO HB Irons: J40 CB (3-PW) Dynamic Gold Tour Issue X100 Wedges: Milled Grind 2 54* & 58* Dynamic Gold S200 Putter: Tri-Hot 5k Two 34" Bag: Players 5 Stand Bag Ball: Maxfli Tour Link to comment
null Posted March 25, 2019 Share Posted March 25, 2019 19 minutes ago, TR1PTIK said: I think to boil it down to blades or cavity backs is a generalization that should be clarified because a "players" cavity-back isn't going to be substantially more difficult to shape than a blade. However, GI, SGI, and perhaps even some players distance irons will be more difficult to shape - at least to the same extent. This is all by design as @bens197 described. The one part he left out that also makes a huge difference is offset. When you introduce significant amounts of offset, you make it harder to move the ball right. I saw @jlukes posted Crossfield's video on the subject and while I do like Crossfield and generally agree with him, I think he lacks self-awareness in the fact that his abilities with a a golf club far exceed that of most golfers. So while I agree that design can be overridden by the player, it's not a very likely scenario for most of us - unless of course it's by mistake. The heart of the point is, a shot hit in the center center of the face with the same club path and same face angle will shape the same, regardless if it is a blade or cavity back Link to comment
bens197 Posted March 25, 2019 Share Posted March 25, 2019 The heart of the point is, a shot hit in the center center of the face with the same club path and same face angle will shape the same, regardless if it is a blade or cavity back Sorry bud but I disagree. If you take two samples from each extreme and attempt the same hook/draw, it will be easier (as the OP inquires) to obtain the desired shot with the blade. It’s physics. The shape and design of the head will restrict or promote certain behaviors from that object struck. If that a majority of that weight and mass is in the sole, the club will promote or restrict certain movement. Good topic. Titleist TSi3 Fujikura Speeder NX Blue 60X TaylorMade SIM2 3 wood Fujilkura Ventus Blue 7-X Titleist U505 2 Tensei 1K Black 85 X Titleist T100 4-P Nippon Modus 3 120X PING S159 50-S 55-H 59-T DG X100 Vokey SM8 50, SM9 54 & 60 Nippon Modus 3 120s L.A.B. MEZZ Max Broom Accra 47" 79.5* Srixon Z-Star XV Currently testing the 2024 PING S159 wedges… https://forum.mygolfspy.com/topic/63483-testers-announced-ping-s159-wedges/ Was testing, still loving the 2023 Titleist T100 Irons 4-P https://forum.mygolfspy.com/topic/60456-titleist-t-series-irons-2023-forum-review/ Link to comment
TR1PTIK Posted March 25, 2019 Share Posted March 25, 2019 6 minutes ago, bens197 said: Sorry bud but I disagree. If you take two samples from each extreme and attempt the same hook/draw, it will be easier (as the OP inquires) to obtain the desired shot with the blade. It’s physics. The shape and design of the head will restrict or promote certain behaviors from that object struck. If that a majority of that weight and mass is in the sole, the club will promote or restrict certain movement. Good topic. I could be wrong - I watched Crossfield's video when it originally dropped not recently - but I thought Mark even hinted at this a little in the video because he had to feel like he was exaggerating certain movements more. You can watch other videos on YouTube where they come to the same conclusion. It's not that you can't shape it, but it is more difficult to shape. Conversely, I'm sure I could hook an SGI club a lot easier though. Driver: ST190 9.5* Fujikura Atmos Blue 5S Fairway Wood: ST190 15* Fujikura Atmos Blue 6S Hybrid: CLK 17* Fujikura Speeder EVO HB Irons: J40 CB (3-PW) Dynamic Gold Tour Issue X100 Wedges: Milled Grind 2 54* & 58* Dynamic Gold S200 Putter: Tri-Hot 5k Two 34" Bag: Players 5 Stand Bag Ball: Maxfli Tour Link to comment
bens197 Posted March 25, 2019 Share Posted March 25, 2019 I could be wrong - I watched Crossfield's video when it originally dropped not recently - but I thought Mark even hinted at this a little in the video because he had to feel like he was exaggerating certain movements more. You can watch other videos on YouTube where they come to the same conclusion. It's not that you can't shape it, but it is more difficult to shape. Conversely, I'm sure I could hook an SGI club a lot easier though.Yup. It’s not to say it’s impossible. It’s just easier with the blades. Sent from my iPhone using MyGolfSpy Titleist TSi3 Fujikura Speeder NX Blue 60X TaylorMade SIM2 3 wood Fujilkura Ventus Blue 7-X Titleist U505 2 Tensei 1K Black 85 X Titleist T100 4-P Nippon Modus 3 120X PING S159 50-S 55-H 59-T DG X100 Vokey SM8 50, SM9 54 & 60 Nippon Modus 3 120s L.A.B. MEZZ Max Broom Accra 47" 79.5* Srixon Z-Star XV Currently testing the 2024 PING S159 wedges… https://forum.mygolfspy.com/topic/63483-testers-announced-ping-s159-wedges/ Was testing, still loving the 2023 Titleist T100 Irons 4-P https://forum.mygolfspy.com/topic/60456-titleist-t-series-irons-2023-forum-review/ Link to comment
Shankster Posted March 25, 2019 Share Posted March 25, 2019 I’m just going to throw this out there. I don’t disagree with anyone here. Just adding to the conversation.Isn’t a more forgiving club suppose to “hit the ball straighter”? That’s what the extra MOI is for?I can draw and fade my irons that are in the GI category, but sometimes it just doesn’t work (probably me 100%). Could with the i200’s too.So if we are all trying to shape our shots we should all play a less forgiving iron? Yeah? Link to comment
TR1PTIK Posted March 25, 2019 Share Posted March 25, 2019 5 minutes ago, Shankster said: I’m just going to throw this out there. I don’t disagree with anyone here. Just adding to the conversation. Isn’t a more forgiving club suppose to “hit the ball straighter”? That’s what the extra MOI is for? I can draw and fade my irons that are in the GI category, but sometimes it just doesn’t work (probably me 100%). Could with the i200’s too. So if we are all trying to shape our shots we should all play a less forgiving iron? Yeah? The only shot shape I ever hit with true intention is a low hook to get me out of trouble. The rest of the time I might have something in my mind of what I want the ball to do, but it's anyone's guess where it will actually go Driver: ST190 9.5* Fujikura Atmos Blue 5S Fairway Wood: ST190 15* Fujikura Atmos Blue 6S Hybrid: CLK 17* Fujikura Speeder EVO HB Irons: J40 CB (3-PW) Dynamic Gold Tour Issue X100 Wedges: Milled Grind 2 54* & 58* Dynamic Gold S200 Putter: Tri-Hot 5k Two 34" Bag: Players 5 Stand Bag Ball: Maxfli Tour Link to comment
RickyBobby_PR Posted March 25, 2019 Share Posted March 25, 2019 16 minutes ago, Shankster said: I’m just going to throw this out there. I don’t disagree with anyone here. Just adding to the conversation. Isn’t a more forgiving club suppose to “hit the ball straighter”? That’s what the extra MOI is for? I can draw and fade my irons that are in the GI category, but sometimes it just doesn’t work (probably me 100%). Could with the i200’s too. So if we are all trying to shape our shots we should all play a less forgiving iron? Yeah? Both the design of what is consider gi and sgi and to an extent the new players distance iron and the ball are designed to go straighter and minimize side to side misses. one thing I find interesting is the desire of amateurs to hit 5+ yard draws or fades when the best players in the world have 5 or less yard movement on their shots. Driver: PXG 0811 X+ Proto w/UST Helium 5F4 Wood: TaylorMade M5 5W w/Accra TZ5 +1/2”, TaylorMade Sim 3W w/Aldila rogue white Hybrid: PXG Gen2 22* w/AD hybrid Irons: PXG Gen3 0311T w/Nippon modus 120 Wedges: TaylorMade MG2 50*, Tiger grind 56/60 Putter: Scotty Caemeron Super Rat1 Ball: Titleist Prov1 Link to comment
Kwoodfield Posted March 25, 2019 Share Posted March 25, 2019 I think everyone here has valid points. Yes path and club face make the biggest distinction in shot shape. But certain clubs are geared at promoting high straight shots for higher handicap golfers. So I would say with the weight profile of blades it is often easier to hit a variety of shot shapes. Sent from my iPhone using MyGolfSpy Link to comment
Shankster Posted March 25, 2019 Share Posted March 25, 2019 I like sideways rainbows out there. The more bend the better. ...I’m actually working on a “straighter” stock shot...So we are talking about 15 feet or less of movement. Link to comment
HighFade Posted March 25, 2019 Share Posted March 25, 2019 23 hours ago, PlaidJacket said: So far I like Steddy's reply. I too am a low single digit hcp'r. Do I "work" the ball? Not unless I have to and even then that usually means me hitting a fade/slice or a low running hook to get out of trouble. My natural shot shape is a draw. When the pin is back right for example; I usually don't try to alter my swing for a fade. I hit my natural and comfortable shot - two putt and move on. I play cavity back irons and can shape the ball right or ...left if I have too. I also know exactly where on the face I struck it. I don't need a blade to learn or hone my ball striking. My irons already provide plenty of feedback. What he said There is no spoon. WITB TaylorMade M3 Callaway Diablo 15° Callaway Diablo 18° Callaway Steelhead XR Pro 4-W Mizuno TP-4 50, 54, 58 TaylorMade Rossa Monza Spyder Link to comment
null Posted March 25, 2019 Share Posted March 25, 2019 1 hour ago, bens197 said: Sorry bud but I disagree. If you take two samples from each extreme and attempt the same hook/draw, it will be easier (as the OP inquires) to obtain the desired shot with the blade. It’s physics. The shape and design of the head will restrict or promote certain behaviors from that object struck. If that a majority of that weight and mass is in the sole, the club will promote or restrict certain movement. Good topic. Do the physics of a gi club make it easier or harder to manipulate the head in certain ways? Perhaps, but it would vary by golfer. But once a specific path and face angle are delivered, the ball will do the same thing no matter a gi or blade is used. Because physics It's not so much what Crossfield is saying in that video I posted. It's what one of the lead fitters at Titleist is saying Link to comment
bens197 Posted March 25, 2019 Share Posted March 25, 2019 Do the physics of a gi club make it easier or harder to manipulate the head in certain ways? Perhaps, but it would vary by golfer. Remove the golfer.The physics and geometry of the club will determine whether it’s easier or not to move the ball. That’s all I’m saying. Add the better golfer and you can quote Jack Nicholson in “The Departed”“You give me a tuba, I’ll get you something out of it.”Sent from my iPhone using MyGolfSpy Titleist TSi3 Fujikura Speeder NX Blue 60X TaylorMade SIM2 3 wood Fujilkura Ventus Blue 7-X Titleist U505 2 Tensei 1K Black 85 X Titleist T100 4-P Nippon Modus 3 120X PING S159 50-S 55-H 59-T DG X100 Vokey SM8 50, SM9 54 & 60 Nippon Modus 3 120s L.A.B. MEZZ Max Broom Accra 47" 79.5* Srixon Z-Star XV Currently testing the 2024 PING S159 wedges… https://forum.mygolfspy.com/topic/63483-testers-announced-ping-s159-wedges/ Was testing, still loving the 2023 Titleist T100 Irons 4-P https://forum.mygolfspy.com/topic/60456-titleist-t-series-irons-2023-forum-review/ Link to comment
cnosil Posted March 25, 2019 Share Posted March 25, 2019 Do the physics of a gi club make it easier or harder to manipulate the head in certain ways? Perhaps, but it would vary by golfer. But once a specific path and face angle are delivered, the ball will do the same thing no matter a gi or blade is used. Because physics It's not so much what Crossfield is saying in that video I posted. It's what one of the lead fitters at Titleist is saying Anyone that has played golf knows that you can hook or slice any club . So I agree that the ball does the same thing, but the question becomes magnitude. GI clubs are designed to impart backspin to generate lift. CG is lower and back than muscle back style clubs. So while I may hit the ball with both clubs using the same path and face angle, the added backspin of the GI offsets the sidespin to make it curve less. Driver: G400 Max 9* w/ KBS Tour Driven Fairway: TS3 15* w/Project X Hzardous Smoke Hybrids: 915H 21* w/KBS Tour Graphite Hybrid Prototype 915H 24* w/KBS Tour Graphite Hybrid Prototype Irons: TR20V 6-11 w/Vizard TR20-85 Graphite Wedge: 54/12D, 60/8M w/:Accra iWedge 90 Graphite Putter: Sacks Parente MC 3 Stripe Backup Putters: Milled Collection RSX 2, mFGP2, Futura 5W, TM-180 Member: MGS Hitsquad since 2017 Link to comment
null Posted March 25, 2019 Share Posted March 25, 2019 1 hour ago, cnosil said: Anyone that has played golf knows that you can hook or slice any club . So I agree that the ball does the same thing, but the question becomes magnitude. GI clubs are designed to impart backspin to generate lift. CG is lower and back than muscle back style clubs. So while I may hit the ball with both clubs using the same path and face angle, the added backspin of the GI offsets the sidespin to make it curve less. Actually most gi clubs spin less because of the low and back cg. Same concept as drivers lowers spin and raises launch. D plane is all that matters Link to comment
cnosil Posted March 25, 2019 Share Posted March 25, 2019 Actually most gi clubs spin less because of the low and back cg. Same concept as drivers lowers spin and raises launch. D plane is all that matters I am pretty sure back CoG raises launch and spin. Driver weight forward lowers spin. I think they spin less if you aren’t looking at same loft and just looking at the number on the bottom of the club. Driver: G400 Max 9* w/ KBS Tour Driven Fairway: TS3 15* w/Project X Hzardous Smoke Hybrids: 915H 21* w/KBS Tour Graphite Hybrid Prototype 915H 24* w/KBS Tour Graphite Hybrid Prototype Irons: TR20V 6-11 w/Vizard TR20-85 Graphite Wedge: 54/12D, 60/8M w/:Accra iWedge 90 Graphite Putter: Sacks Parente MC 3 Stripe Backup Putters: Milled Collection RSX 2, mFGP2, Futura 5W, TM-180 Member: MGS Hitsquad since 2017 Link to comment
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.