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The guy at Mizuno recommended the GP Multicompound .600 for the KBS Tour also in 0.600

If you combine those, you get standard men size, correct?

 

So let's say I changed my mind and want the stock Mizuno M-21 available in .580 and .580 round (what's the difference anyways?)

 

When you install a .580 grip on a .600 shaft without adding a layer of tape, is it bigger than standard size?

 

If I needed GP NDMC standard + 1 layer, does it mean I should take the M-21 without the extra layer?

 

This is confusing :lol:

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If the shaft size is smaller than the core size of the grip then the overall affect is a smaller size grip.

adding layers of tape is correct however the tape size itself can different. For instance. if using masking tape, the regular type, then I would use two layers to obtain the standard size. If using paper packing tape then I would use only one layer.

Driver - 44.5" 5.0 flex 10.5 deg ACCRA tour Z GP MCC4+ 1 deg closed

Irons - 5-pw, GW stnd length 5.0 flex same grip 1 deg flat. Type low medium offset cavity back, no diggers

Wedges - 56 and 60 tour grind wedge spinner and mcc4+ grip 2 flat 10 and 8 in bounce

Putter - 33" 3 deg loft 70 lie, lrg slight line slightly toe hang

Ball - truvis

Carried in a Sun Mountain C-130 USA bag - BE PROUD.

HC - LH but 85 is a good number, playing in Ohio.

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If you want two layers of tape, you use masking tape first, rather than two layers of grip tape. Why? Why not just use two layers of double sided grip tape?

 

Driver:      :mizuno-small:  ST190G on Fujikura ATMOS Black

Fairway:   :mizuno-small:  ST190TS 15° on Fujikura ATMOS Black

Hybrids     :mizuno-small:  CLK 22 & 25 (set to 20° & 23°) on Fujikura SPEEDER

Irons:     :mizuno-small:  MP5 5-P on True Temper Dynamic Gold

Wedges: :mizuno-small: MP-T5 52*, 56* & 60* on True Temper Dynamic Gold Wedge

Putter:    :cameron-small: 2018 Select Newport 2

Balls:      :titelist-small: Pro V1X

Shoes:     :footjoy-small:

Range Finder: Precision Pro  NX7 Pro

All grips are BestGrips Micro-Perforated

 

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If you want two layers of tape, you use masking tape first, rather than two layers of grip tape. Why? Why not just use two layers of double sided grip tape?

Its cheaper and easier to use than an additional layer of double side tape.

Driver - 44.5" 5.0 flex 10.5 deg ACCRA tour Z GP MCC4+ 1 deg closed

Irons - 5-pw, GW stnd length 5.0 flex same grip 1 deg flat. Type low medium offset cavity back, no diggers

Wedges - 56 and 60 tour grind wedge spinner and mcc4+ grip 2 flat 10 and 8 in bounce

Putter - 33" 3 deg loft 70 lie, lrg slight line slightly toe hang

Ball - truvis

Carried in a Sun Mountain C-130 USA bag - BE PROUD.

HC - LH but 85 is a good number, playing in Ohio.

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Ok, I was wondering if there was some other reason. I have always used two layers of the grip tape, but recently I have seen people saying one masking tape and one grip tape. I will not argue that you have to be extra careful putting grip tape on top of grip tape. You really have to get it right the first time. The cost never really occured to me because I buy a big roll and it lasts a couple of years. I never thought well, if I use masking tape I can make it last four years. But I just do it for myself. Well, I have regripped some for friends but usually only one club.

 

Driver:      :mizuno-small:  ST190G on Fujikura ATMOS Black

Fairway:   :mizuno-small:  ST190TS 15° on Fujikura ATMOS Black

Hybrids     :mizuno-small:  CLK 22 & 25 (set to 20° & 23°) on Fujikura SPEEDER

Irons:     :mizuno-small:  MP5 5-P on True Temper Dynamic Gold

Wedges: :mizuno-small: MP-T5 52*, 56* & 60* on True Temper Dynamic Gold Wedge

Putter:    :cameron-small: 2018 Select Newport 2

Balls:      :titelist-small: Pro V1X

Shoes:     :footjoy-small:

Range Finder: Precision Pro  NX7 Pro

All grips are BestGrips Micro-Perforated

 

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It depends on what you use as build up tape Rick. If its real build up tape (which is thicker than masking tape, but thinner than double sided grip tape) the standard is 2 wraps per +1/32. With double sided tape, 2 layers extra is larger than +1/32. If you're trying to be exact with a customer, you should use true build up tape, which is 1/64 thick instead of grip tape or regular masking tape. The grip tape is thicker than 1/64 and standard masking tape is thinner. It's poor practice to use anything else, IMO if one is to call oneself a professional.

 

As for stretching a .580 onto a .600 shaft, you're going to be over sizing it by 0.020".

In The Bag
Driver: TaylorMade M2 (2017) w/ Project X T1100 HZRDUS Handcrafted 65x 
Strong 3 wood: Taylormade M1 15* w/ ProjectX T1100 HZRDUS handcrafted 75x
3 Hybrid: Adams PRO 18* w/ KBS Tour Hybrid S flex tipped 1/2"
4 Hybrid: Adams PRO 20* (bent to 21*) w/ KBS Tour Hybrid S flex tipped 1/2"
4-AW: TaylorMade P770 w/ Dynamic Gold Tour Issue Black Onyx S400

SW: 56* Scratch Tour Dept(CC grooves) w/ Dynamic Gold Spinner
LW: 60* Scratch Tour Department (CC grooves) w/ Dynamic Gold Spinner
XW: 64* Cally XForged Vintage w/ DG X100 8 iron tiger stepped
Putter: Nike Method Prototype 006 at 34"

Have a ton of back-ups in all categories, but there are always 14 clubs in the bag that differ depending on the course and set-up. Bomb and gouge. Yes, I'm a club gigolo.

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It's poor practice to use anything else, IMO if one is to call oneself a professional.

 

 

And the difference is? You get to charge people more- not to mention the ego boost- because "true" build-up tape is more expensive!

 

Look at it this way: years back, the company I work for made the rear armrests for Silverado's, 1500's and a few other GM truck models. They went through a heating process (multiple "ovens") to eliminate wrinkles. Unfortunately, the developer of the oven had the temps wrong, and we ended up scorching the "front" side (the side opposite the cupholder, visible when the armrest is folded up into the seat) of the beige/natural/neutral armrests. It took a lot of trial and error, but we finally got the temps correct. Instead of throwing away all those armrests, we found spray paint (spray paint!!) that matched up exactly with that beige color- the execs at GM and our customers we shipped to couldn't tell the difference. With the dark grey color for the same part, we used putty to cover up any small gashes or gaps in the folds. Not "make this right" thinking, but "find a solution that works".

 

For the headliners we make for Chrysler, simple hot glue holds the foam blocks onto the base of the liner. If you're curious, the blocks keep some separation between the liner and the roof of the car, so things fit without creating lips, bumps, etc. Could we use something "professional" like Hot Melt or some industrial-grade glue? Sure... but why?

 

That line of thinking suggests the engineers and developers of these concepts aren't "professional", though they certainly have the schooling and experience to suggest otherwise. Normal masking tape is usually, but not always, .006" (it depends on the brand). "Professional" grip tape is .015" (1/64th"). There was a time when there wasn't "professional" grip tape... plain ol' masking tape was all there was. Does that make them unprofessional? Hardly... they still got the job done, just as the professionals in my shop did. Besides, once it's fully assmebled, could you honestly tell the difference? Not unless you were told.

 

I wouldn't argue the ease of use of the "professional" grip tape, but to make such a blanket statement is just wrong in my opinion. You're certainly entitled to it, however.

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And the difference is? You get to charge people more- not to mention the ego boost- because "true" build-up tape is more expensive!

 

Look at it this way: years back, the company I work for made the rear armrests for Silverado's, 1500's and a few other GM truck models. They went through a heating process (multiple "ovens") to eliminate wrinkles. Unfortunately, the developer of the oven had the temps wrong, and we ended up scorching the "front" side (the side opposite the cupholder, visible when the armrest is folded up into the seat) of the beige/natural/neutral armrests. It took a lot of trial and error, but we finally got the temps correct. Instead of throwing away all those armrests, we found spray paint (spray paint!!) that matched up exactly with that beige color- the execs at GM and our customers we shipped to couldn't tell the difference. With the dark grey color for the same part, we used putty to cover up any small gashes or gaps in the folds. Not "make this right" thinking, but "find a solution that works".

 

For the headliners we make for Chrysler, simple hot glue holds the foam blocks onto the base of the liner. If you're curious, the blocks keep some separation between the liner and the roof of the car, so things fit without creating lips, bumps, etc. Could we use something "professional" like Hot Melt or some industrial-grade glue? Sure... but why?

 

That line of thinking suggests the engineers and developers of these concepts aren't "professional", though they certainly have the schooling and experience to suggest otherwise. Normal masking tape is usually, but not always, .006" (it depends on the brand). "Professional" grip tape is .015" (1/64th"). There was a time when there wasn't "professional" grip tape... plain ol' masking tape was all there was. Does that make them unprofessional? Hardly... they still got the job done, just as the professionals in my shop did. Besides, once it's fully assmebled, could you honestly tell the difference? Not unless you were told.

 

I wouldn't argue the ease of use of the "professional" grip tape, but to make such a blanket statement is just wrong in my opinion. You're certainly entitled to it, however.

 

I'm willing to bet that 95% of persons building clubs out there that use normal masking tape have no idea about the thickness differences in it and build up tape. Someone tells them 3 extra wraps, thinking that they're oversizing them by 3/64th's and in actuality they're barely more than 1/64th. To me, that's unprofessional. It's poor practice to call oneself a professional when you're using something that's a different thickness than what you're really selling to customers. Call it a wrong opinion, but I call it poor practice to provide a service and have no clue about how it works. There are 3 local stores that offer club building, there's one employee at those three stores that has a clue about the thickness differences, and all 3 have both normal masking tape and build-up tape. They always use the normal masking tape and every time the sizing is wrong.

In The Bag
Driver: TaylorMade M2 (2017) w/ Project X T1100 HZRDUS Handcrafted 65x 
Strong 3 wood: Taylormade M1 15* w/ ProjectX T1100 HZRDUS handcrafted 75x
3 Hybrid: Adams PRO 18* w/ KBS Tour Hybrid S flex tipped 1/2"
4 Hybrid: Adams PRO 20* (bent to 21*) w/ KBS Tour Hybrid S flex tipped 1/2"
4-AW: TaylorMade P770 w/ Dynamic Gold Tour Issue Black Onyx S400

SW: 56* Scratch Tour Dept(CC grooves) w/ Dynamic Gold Spinner
LW: 60* Scratch Tour Department (CC grooves) w/ Dynamic Gold Spinner
XW: 64* Cally XForged Vintage w/ DG X100 8 iron tiger stepped
Putter: Nike Method Prototype 006 at 34"

Have a ton of back-ups in all categories, but there are always 14 clubs in the bag that differ depending on the course and set-up. Bomb and gouge. Yes, I'm a club gigolo.

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I'm willing to bet that 95% of persons building clubs out there that use normal masking tape have no idea about the thickness differences in it and build up tape. Someone tells them 3 extra wraps, thinking that they're oversizing them by 3/64th's and in actuality they're barely more than 1/64th. To me, that's unprofessional. It's poor practice to call oneself a professional when you're using something that's a different thickness than what you're really selling to customers. Call it a wrong opinion, but I call it poor practice to provide a service and have no clue about how it works. There are 3 local stores that offer club building, there's one employee at those three stores that has a clue about the thickness differences, and all 3 have both normal masking tape and build-up tape. They always use the normal masking tape and every time the sizing is wrong.

 

Agreed. It's about the practice, not the materials. Someone that uses Naptha from Lowe's instead of "professional" grip solvent is still doing the same job because they are indeed the same thing (Brampton's eco-friendly solvent notwithstanding... that is different stuff). But since it says "GOLF" on it, the professional stuff costs more. But if someone doesn't use enough, so that the grip gets stuck halfway on and creates a clusterfk, that's where the difference would lie.

 

Sounds like the people in question need to go back to the manuals they should've been studying from. They account for the thinner tape, since the books- especially the older manuals- predated the "professional" grip tape and accounted for it.

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True, but there are so many guys out there working at a shop that's formal training includes watching the master clubbuilder at the shop that's had schooling. I don't even use tape and solvent anymore, I blow grips on. It's too easy to do that and plus you can save grips much easier (which is great for me as much as I change clubs).

In The Bag
Driver: TaylorMade M2 (2017) w/ Project X T1100 HZRDUS Handcrafted 65x 
Strong 3 wood: Taylormade M1 15* w/ ProjectX T1100 HZRDUS handcrafted 75x
3 Hybrid: Adams PRO 18* w/ KBS Tour Hybrid S flex tipped 1/2"
4 Hybrid: Adams PRO 20* (bent to 21*) w/ KBS Tour Hybrid S flex tipped 1/2"
4-AW: TaylorMade P770 w/ Dynamic Gold Tour Issue Black Onyx S400

SW: 56* Scratch Tour Dept(CC grooves) w/ Dynamic Gold Spinner
LW: 60* Scratch Tour Department (CC grooves) w/ Dynamic Gold Spinner
XW: 64* Cally XForged Vintage w/ DG X100 8 iron tiger stepped
Putter: Nike Method Prototype 006 at 34"

Have a ton of back-ups in all categories, but there are always 14 clubs in the bag that differ depending on the course and set-up. Bomb and gouge. Yes, I'm a club gigolo.

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True, but there are so many guys out there working at a shop that's formal training includes watching the master clubbuilder at the shop that's had schooling. I don't even use tape and solvent anymore, I blow grips on. It's too easy to do that and plus you can save grips much easier (which is great for me as much as I change clubs).

 

I still haven't gotten around to that, but I haven't got an air compressor... yet. Definitely on my "to do" list this year.

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Much like the burnt car part its about time to do the job and parts needed. If I have to put three layers of tape on just a set of eight irons that 32 layers of tape including the grip verses 16 using the right stuff. We do a lot of gripping particularly right now at the beginning of the season. Using the right gear including the proper solvent is key.

 

If doing grips on a for yourself basis, then using what will do is ok. But repetitive usage to naptha is not something I look forward to.

 

We dont blow on grips although I think it a great way to do the job. My other gripper just refuses to change and since sge does more than I she wins.

Driver - 44.5" 5.0 flex 10.5 deg ACCRA tour Z GP MCC4+ 1 deg closed

Irons - 5-pw, GW stnd length 5.0 flex same grip 1 deg flat. Type low medium offset cavity back, no diggers

Wedges - 56 and 60 tour grind wedge spinner and mcc4+ grip 2 flat 10 and 8 in bounce

Putter - 33" 3 deg loft 70 lie, lrg slight line slightly toe hang

Ball - truvis

Carried in a Sun Mountain C-130 USA bag - BE PROUD.

HC - LH but 85 is a good number, playing in Ohio.

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