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cnosil

 
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Posts posted by cnosil

  1. 11 minutes ago, jaywelby34 said:

    I was just starting to break into the 80s on a regular basis which felt good.  I wanted to take some lessons to fix a few things and perhaps elevate the game even further.  Long story short the lessons broke me completely.  I was at a point a few months ago that I almost considered giving up the game.  It was that bad.  Any tips on  regaining the swing and some confidence?

    Why did the lesson break you completely?  Swing changes are hard and need to be practiced.  Any change will feel different and uncomfortable because it is not what you typically do.  Unfortunately you provide no input on what you need help with so the basic answer is take lessons and practice.  

  2. 4 hours ago, LICC said:

    This isn't even close to accurate. Not even in the same universe as reality. Tom Watson won the Byron Nelson in 1980 with a score of 274. Lee Kyoung-hoon won it in 2021 with a score of 263. In 1980 it was played at Preston Trails Golf Club, with the course under 7,100 yards. In 2021 it was played at TPC Craig Ranch at over 7400 yards. 

    Just a point of clarity and not continuing the discussion.  He wasn't referring to the tournament but the award:  The PGA Tour presents its own Byron Nelson Award annually to the player with the lowest adjusted scoring average for the year.   

  3. 52 minutes ago, LICC said:

    Scores are lower because modern equipment has led to substantial increases in distance. Players aren't better, the equipment is.

    Agree, equipment is also a part of the equation, but I still say the pool,of players is better and improves over time.  

  4. 1 hour ago, Mchedwards said:

    We’ll likely my issue is golf galaxy is who fitted my irons.  Maybe not the best option but they include the cost for fitting if you purchase clubs from them  Full bag fitting otherwise would cost much more and no refund at purchase.  Me just me being cheap.  

    Fitting is about how you actually hit the clubs.   You may end up with a mixture of lengths, flexes, shaft profiles, swing weights, etc.   

  5. 22 minutes ago, Mizuno fan boy said:

    The irony is a fitti. G I had years ago had me at 2deg flat, then a new fitting two years ago had me ag 2deg upright. My guy tells me tk go back to std. 

    Who's flat, upgright, and std. are you referring to?  OEMs have different standards so they could actually all be the same lie angle. 

  6. 3 hours ago, Tom the Golf Nut said:

    This brings up a good question. Does anyone know the tolerances the factory has to go by for putter grip installation? 

    I was at a local golf shop and a guy wanted a new grip on his putter. The old one was cut off. New tape and slid the grip on. He set it on the floor looked down the shaft twisted a little and said here you go. Nobody's eyes that calibrated. I know I take things to the extreme but its because I can, and have all the tools from when I was a machinist many moons ago.

    I don't think there are any tolerances on factory installed grips.  During most wanted putter testing there are always one or two putters that has twisted grips.   

    As for what you saw in the local shop,  that is probably how 95% of all installs are done.  

  7. Question 1 seems to have gotten covered pretty well....he asked,  you provided your thoughts and as long as it was part of a conversation then no problems.

    As for question 2,  I don't think there is a specific time that a player should switch to blades.  At the end of the day, players should play what they want and if that is blades,  hickory shafted clubs, SGI, traditional lofts, jacked lofts, or whatever then so be it.  Hopefully; but not likely,  the player understands the trade offs between sets of clubs and that they have the ability to hit them reasonably well.  

  8. 8 hours ago, wanabe said:

    Thanks fellas. 

    Cnosil, as I noted in my post, I (my buddy actually) won't have much time to copy down parameters, which is why I was asking to pare down the parameters to a manageable few.  As I am sure many of you have been on a monitor, you know how quickly the screen changes.  I am just wondering if you think there are, say 3 that are most important relative to indicating which set I hit best.  

     

    I also said you could limit if you specified what you prioritizing?   Is farther better, is dispersion better,  it ability to stop the ball on the better?   What type of launch monitor and are you getting both club and ball data?  

    Perhaps you could video your session so you could get the numbers at a later time or you could ask how to see all the data that you captured.  

  9. 24 minutes ago, Kenny B said:

    My wife and I were joined by a very nice 20-something with a wonderful golf swing; transplant from Colorado with Taylormade bag, Sim2 driver and 3w and P770 irons.  To watch him hit the ball was amazing.  Closest thing to tour level I've seen around here.  Driver was 300+ and straight, flew the ball onto our 280y par 4 #14 risk/reward hole with 3W.  He was sticking iron shots near the flag all day, but he only made 2 birdies because the greens were punched on Sun/Mon.  He did say that he has had 8 birdies in a round... but shot 71.  🤣  Oh yeah... he's a 2 HCP and has been playing golf for only 2 years!  😱  Just not fair... Meanwhile, I shot 85 with 2 doubles; 46/39 which wasn't all that bad after shoveling landscape rock all week.

    Always fun watching someone with those skills playing well;  makes me envious of how consistent their shots are. 

  10. 1 hour ago, Bobbers said:

    One of the things I "worry" about is getting what I'll call an "accurate" installation of a flat faced putter grip on a putter.

    My definition of accurate is that there's a 90 degree, not 89 degree,  not 91 degree but perfectly perpendicular difference between the flat face of the grip and the face of the putter.

    What tips/tricks/technique do you use to get the most accurate installation when you're replacing a putter grip?

    Thanks in advance for any suggestions.

    To get that accuracy you probably don't have the tools available as it requires a fixed gripping station and lasers.    Some tricks that you can use to do your most accurate work is to use levels to clamp the putter into a vise and ensure that the face is straight up and down using a level.   You can then install the grip and use a level to ensure that the top is flat.   Another option that I have used successfully is to use a corner in your how with a 90 degree corner.  To do this the putter face goes against the wall and then raise the handle to meet the wall.   The flat part of the grip should be flush against the one wall and the putter face flush against the other wall.  

  11. 13 minutes ago, sirchunksalot said:

    The bad: everything else. I didn't hit a single good iron shot, it was a display of topping balls underneath the hosel. When I wasn't doing that, I was shanking the ball. I was only able to get one ball past the 100 yard marker with an iron and that was a heel strike....with a 7 iron. 

    I'm frustrated right now, I honestly believe this was the lowest point of my golf life. I say that and I am going to say that I'm proud of myself for not mentally collapsing. I know I can hit the ball, but today was not that day. I've got to remind myself that I've barely hit balls in the last month due to some craziness at home. It'll get there, it's just going to take some time. 

    We all have good days and bad days and those days were a bad day would be welcomed because  we are beyond bad.  Shake it off,  know you can play better, and  look forward to just being able to get out and chase the white ball.  

     

  12. 33 minutes ago, wanabe said:

    Looking for a bit of advise on comparing different sets of clubs.  I have at least 4 sets of irons I am thinking about playing this spring (I am a club addict as well as being compulsive : )  I am going to take the PW and 7 iron from each set and hit them at an indoor golf center on Thursday and was wondering what parameters I might use to best compare them regarding which is best suited for me (which I hit the best).  I'm 72 and struggling with my swing due to having bad back problems (three different surgeons have advised me to get fusion surgery).  I have a number of different sets to choose from and I'm wondering what to look at to help me choose the set best suited to my swing at this point.  The sets I have are:  Sub 70 699 pro, PXG 0211, Callaway Rogue OS, Orlimar Stratos, all with senior flex shafts.  I realize that many of you are going to say I need to give more info. but I'm just interested in a general idea in terms of the clubs.  As of now I am thinking I'll hit each club 5 times and look at the mean score of carry, ball speed and smash factor.  What would you recommend?  One factor I have to consider is the speed at which the screen changes at the place I am going to.  A friend of mine is going to jot down the numbers as we go so I can't have very many parameters to look at.  If I knew more about swing monitors and computers I could probably get all the numbers as mean scores but I don't, so this is what I've got : )  

    You should really look at:

    • where you hit the ball on the face
    • club speed
    • ball speed  (smash factor is just ball speed/club speed)
    • launch angle
    • carry distance
    • dispersion (left/right and long/short
    • descent angle
    • spin (if it is accurately captured)
    • peak height
    • you should also look at standard deviation for each of these

    You could potentially limit those if you want to focus more on distance values vs. consistency/dispersion values.

     

  13. 4 minutes ago, YourKillingMeSmalls said:

    Not trying to say a fade was bad, I guess I just never noticed what a high percentage it was being used, back in the day the pros would curve it according to the hole design.

    That is one of the "complaints" about todays golf style.   Players today usually play a single ball flight off the tee with a driver.   There have been videos and interviews with players like Bubba and DJ and they were asked about when they hit a draw off the tee and their answer is basically never on purpose.   If you look at strategy systems like DECADE, the advice is the same, play a single ball flight with driver.  If you need to hit a draw,  find a different club that naturally draws.   

  14. 6 hours ago, Bunker Snot said:

    Same as others "wedge" flex (or unnoted) is my current shaft(s)  Is this flex somewhere between what a stiff and regular iron shaft would be?  

    wedge flex is kind of a generic term and like other flex designations will very based on manufacturer.   In true temper terms it is generally a S200 shaft which is stiff but slightly lighter than the normal S300.  

  15. 1 hour ago, Gregf said:

    I’m a 73 y/o year round club golfer with a 90ss and a hcp ranging 11-16 based on different courses and situations. I constantly find and are given premium balls including Pro V1, V1X, Tp5x etc. I’m conservative so I play these (don’t buy) and feel these 3 balls and some other premium balls are going to give me the stopping power into the greens I need and won’t differently effect my game much. 
    Do you agree that at my level I’m not losing much from playing the same ball all the time like a Pro V1?

    General thought is that players should always play the same ball so they get consistent results.   The decision on which ball is player dependent;  if you read various threads on this forum you will see that some people play premium balls and others play bargain balls and are successful.   Players that play the premium balls want the additional spin and those that player the mid range and lower balls play for more release on iron shots and a bump and run style around the greens.  

  16. 1 hour ago, YourKillingMeSmalls said:

    Interesting article but I also read recently that driving accuracy of the pros has dropped the last 20 years but even with that scoring has gone down.

    Could be lots of reasons for lower scores....better course strategy and understanding of strokes gained by younger players, better course agronomy,  players are just better.    Accuracy is also tied loosely to speed. Lets assume a player keeps his face within one degree of square;  the faster longer player will have a wider dispersion pattern than a slower player.  

    As for fades,  why is a fade bad?   Playing strategies suggest that players should just pick a shape and always play that shape with the driver.  

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