Hot Box

[Maverickping]

Anyone who is interested in "fast curing" this is the ticket. Some of my friends have been using this with very good results.

 

 

 

 

Instructions for Hot Box Assembly:

 

 

 

Materials needed:

 

Pop rivets to secure end caps

Sheet metal lid (optional) Nuts and bolts to mount lamp sockets, lid hinges, “L” brackets

“L” brackets (2) These should be long enough to span the bottom of the box for good support. Brackets used to hold clothes rods in closets are good with the rod “U” cut off.

Suitable screws for mounting assembled box “L” brackets, lid hinges and shaft support to the wall

One neoprene grommet for electrical cord to pass through.

Porcelain Surface Mount lamp sockets (3)

60 or 75 watt light bulbs (3)

Switches (the small toggle type are suitable as they don't require mounting in electrical boxes) for light bulbs (3). Option is you can turn on and off by plugging or unplugging from a wall outlet or you can use a timer.

Electrical tape or wire nuts.

Electrical lamp cord and plug.

 

 

Assembly:

Remove end cover caps and end caps.

 

 

Locate and drill mounting holes for Porcelain sockets at both ends of the box. Put bulbs in sockets to assure proper clearances and locate socket in front inside part of box so that the bulbs on the end are under the top caps. Locate position of the third bulb in the center of the box..

Locate position for switches if used.

Without the bulbs in the sockets drill 3/8 holes in the underside of the box so that these holes are under the widest part of the bulb when it is in place. These holes allow air to enter the box, get heated and circulate exiting through the slot where the shafts are. This “chimney” effect is important!

Connect wiring as in the drawing provided.

Test the operation of the light bulbs and switches if used.

Secure end caps to box with pop rivets or bolts.

Replace top end caps

Mount a sheet metal lid to front edge of box with a piano hinge OR use the foam piece provided. There must be a full length slot in the top back of the box for shafts to pass through. If you make a lid it should be 6.5” wide and 46” long.

Locate suitable positions for “L” brackets (this depends on where box will be mounted on the wall and locations of wall studs). The brackets will be bolted to the underside of the box with the box back side about one inch from the wall. Mount “L” brackets to the box with bolts and nuts.

After mounting the box to the wall, position the shaft holding strip approx. 30” above the bottom of the box. This is made out of a piece of 1 X 2" wood with "Us" cut in the edge by clamping two pieces together (edgewise) and drilling 1 - 1.5" holes centered at the joing edge.

A nice addition is a digital indoor/outdoor thermometer (Radio Shack) with the outdoor probe inside the box. This allows monitoring of the inside temperature of the box and controlled by turning on or off some of the lights.

Ideal operation temperature is 120 - 125º F. This will fully cure 24 hour epoxy in about 1.5 hours. 140ºF. will cure in 1 hour but there will be problems with epoxy "boil out" as the expoy gets thin (watery) just before it "kicks" (starts to harden). This can be messy if boilout occurrs as the epoxy will come out of the hosel, run down the hosel and harden! YUCK!

The box described is about 48" long, 5" deep and 6" front to back. It is only necessary to contain the head and hosel inside the box NOT THE SHAFT!

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