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Mr_Theoo

A Question about tip weights

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So now that my shafts are on their way and I will soon be assembling them I had a question about if I do or do not need to use tip weights when assembling them. I noticed when i pulled the old shafts there was a silver looking thing that the end. Also if I do need them how do i go about installing them correctly.

 

Sorry for what is probably a noob question but i appreciate any help i can get

 

Thanks

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Thanks, is there anyway I would be able to find out if i do or dont before getting everything assembled?

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You don't need them. They're useful for getting to a certain swing weight if you already know what you want. Plus, since it's really easy to remove and reinstall an iron shaft, it's not too hard to play around with weights.

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Just going to sum it up here.

 

You don't need to use tip weights. They are just a tool used to dial in a certain swing weight when you are building the clubs. Another popular method would be using tungsten powder. The powder is poured down the shaft until you get the desired weight and then you shove a cork down the shaft to hold it in place.

 

If you aren't building your irons to any particular spec then you don't really need them. I will add in the obligatory remark about getting fit though. I'd highly recommend finding out what works best for you, then you can always use those specs to build up your new set.

 

As BK already said you don't have to glue everything in right away. It's best to dry fit everything together and make sure you have the swing weight you want before you glue it up. Just make sure you have the grip installed when measuring the swing weight.

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I sorta of don't agree with the people here talking about how you don't really need them if you are not building them to a specification. Almost every iron I have ever seen as a stock swing-weight number attached to it. Normally it is something like D1 or D2, however because of manufacturing process there is no way they will be EXACT, the head weight has built in tolerances.

 

For the most part heads will likely come in on the LIGHT side of things on error more often then heavy side, assuming the stock says D2 you are likely to find heads / swing weights that range from C9 to D2. Really, even if you are looking to keep them at manufactures specs exactly you will likely need the tip weights. The exception MIGHT be if you are getting the heads off a tour van where they are already pre-weighed and designated to a swing-weight at a given length.

 

You can do a calculation of what the swing weight will be based on the clubs components. Here is a document on calculations >> http://advancedballstriking.com/Swing_weights.pdf

 

 

No you don't absolutely have to have them but in a stock off the self pre-assembled set like you find in a golf store the swing weights 99.9% of the time will be all over the place. If you are doing the assembly yourself from scratch, you might as well get them right the first time instead of having to pull the shafts again later and re-do it.

 

If you are going to buy tip weights go with brass don't use the lead tips. Lead is cheaper and works fine but brass is nicer to work with and probably would last longer. You are likely to trash or sell the clubs before either would go bad though.

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jmiller is right that swingweights can and do vary. Do you absolutely need them? No. Will the set be more consistent with them? Yes. You just need to decide if you are willing to take the time to do the work.

 

 

You can do a calculation of what the swing weight will be based on the clubs components. Here is a document on calculations >> http://advancedballstriking.com/Swing_weights.pdf

That's a handy reference. I think there is a typo on page 8 in the first chart. The 2nd number in the last column should be 5", not 42.5". Technically it should be 4.88" but I assume they rounded.

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Well since I don't have a swing weight scale I think I'm going to have to do a trial and error to find out the right swing weight for me

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I use tip weights because I prefer the look of them over lead tape. They are really more preferential on woods since it's difficult to find a spot for lead tape to go on a lot of driver designs. I use MOI matching instead of swingweight matching. My Wishon 52* wedge needed something like 21 grams of lead tape. So, I used a 9-gram hosel weight and 12 grams of lead tape. It came out a lot cleaner. Plus, over time the lead tape can whittle away.

 

But, tip weights are not mandatory.

 

 

 

 

 

3JACK

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Well since I don't have a swing weight scale I think I'm going to have to do a trial and error to find out the right swing weight for me

You don't need a swing-weight scale you just need a scale that measures grams and a calculator.

 

Finding the "right" swing-weight for you involves a little more experimentation or a good fitter.

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