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Wedges that come with iron set or not?


Mtiger10

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I'm curious about advantages/disadvantages to playing the wedges that come with your iron set.  I've never invested in a separate PW or GW, just always used the one included in my iron set.  I've noticed that Cleveland CBX (and possibly others I'm not aware of) are individual wedges targeted toward the guys that play cavity back irons. Am I missing out on an opportunity to save strokes or just stick with the forgiveness built into my cavity back iron set?

WITB

 

Driver: Ping G30 Driver 9* with TFC 419D

3 Wood: Ping G25

5 Wood: Callaway Big Bertha Ti (2005) 18*

Hybrid: Ping G25 20*

Irons: Callaway X Hot 4-SW with True Temper XP95 S300

Wedge: Callaway X Tour Chrome PM 60*

Putter: Seemore Si Black 32"

Ball: Titleist ProV1x

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I will use the PW only out of a set. They are designed to help you hit full shots. They aren't designed for half shots, “creative shots” etc where you need that sole and bounce for sliding through a bunker/rough etc. if you use your SW for everything then it's not an awful idea just to use your standard PW or GW.

 

 

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<p>Knoxville, TN 8 Hdcp PXG 0811  10.59deg loft Ping G25 3 wood Titleist 2i rescue Ping I irons +1 upright Vokey Sm5 52, 56, OdysseyRed 2Ball Fang with 1.0 super stroke</p>

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Its all a comfort level. If you play well with them, why change. However I always struggled with the high loft wedges that came with the set and upgraded.  Looking that you have a 16 handicap you may benefit from it. If you're new to the game until you get your swing down it doesnt matter what clubs you use (to an extent)

Driver  :ping-small: G425 9* Hzrdus Smoke Green Small batch 6.5 70g

Fairway Wood:   Cobra Radspeed Big 3 

Hybrid:  :ping-small: iCrossover 2 Iron smoke black stiff

Irons:     :titelist-small: T200 (4-AW) AMT Black Stiff Shafts 

Wedges:  :cleveland-small: Tour Rack 56* 60*

Putter:   :cameron-small: Scotty Cameron Golo 5

Right Handed 

Pittsburgh, PA

 

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I've done both. I've opted for a 50* wedge, and I've gone the “set” GW/AW. For me, I liked the set wedge when I had it, but I also like my current 50* that's not a match to the set. I don't get creative with my 50*, so I've never felt like I lost anything by sticking with the set wedge. Edel doesn't make a GW that matches my current set, so only one choice to go with.

 

My 50* is almost always used for full shots, so, I really think I'd be ok either way.

 

 

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Driver: Honma TR 460 8.5*, Aldila RIP Alpha 80 S, 45 1/4"; Ping G425 LST, Fujikura Speeder TR 661 S, 45 1/2"

hybrids: Cobra King Tec 17* and 21*, both with Graphite Design Tour AD-DI 105 X

Irons:  Srixon ZX5 4-6, ZX7 7-PW, UST Mamiya Recoil F4, +1”

Wedges: :edel-golf-1: SMS 50D/54V/58D:Nippon:Modus 130 stiff, +1”

Putter:  :edel-golf-1: EAS 1.0

All but putter have Lamkin ST+2 Hybrid Calibrate midsize built to oversize +1

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We've had several threads about blended sets so you may wish to review those. My handicap is a bit lower than yours but this isn't always about that.

 

A players club for one or two of your wedges might be a great idea because they are more versatile. You could go something like 45 from your set 50 (players) 55 (from your set) 60 players.

 

You'd want the 55 to be your primary sand, thick rough club in this scenario.

 

Its something nag to talk through with your teacher and then have a short game lesson once you get your wedges set.

 

 

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Taylor Made Stealth 10.5  Aldila Ascent Red R flex

Ping G410 5, 7, 9 wood  Alta 65 R flex

Wilson D7 forged 5-GW -  Mamiya recoil 460 R flex

SCOR 52, 56  

Ping Glide 3.0  Ping Eye 2 grind 58.8

L.A.B. Mezz.1 32.5"

Titleist Pro VIx optic yellow with revkev stamped on them

 

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All good answers on here as usual. I can say this it is subjective like everything else in golf. You gotta do what fits your comfort level is what I always practice and preach (how's that Rev? LOL). 

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Driver ---- Callaway Big Bertha Alpha  Speeder 565 R flex---- 3 wood TM V-Steel Aldila 65G R Flex 15*--- 7 Wood TM V-Steel UST Pro Force 65 R flex 21*---- 9 wood TM V-Steel stock MAS Stiff shaft 24*---  Irons 4 thru 9 Mac Muirfield TT black label --- PW  Vokey SM-4 51* stock shaft--- SW Vokey SM 5 L grind 58* stock shaft--- Putter -- Rusty Scotty Santa Fe fluted Bulls Eye shaft---. Bag Old School Jones Original non stand

 

 

 

 

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It seems that it is becoming necessary to go with a true PW outside of a set. As clubs have delofted modern PWs have gone 8-10 degrees stronger. The old ones were around 48 degrees. If your not purchasing extra wedges you could have some odd gaps.

 

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Take Dead Aim

Driver: PXG 0211 10.5* 

Fairway: Titleist 917 F3 15*

Hybrid: Adams Idea Pro Boxer Gold 18*

Irons: Titleist 714CB 4-PW

Wedges: Vokey SM5 & SM6 50/54/58

Putter: SeeMore X2 Costa del Mar

Ball: Srixon Z-Star

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You could definitely go either way depending on what you are comfortable with.

One piece of advice I think is good is to ask yourself is how you typically use that club. If you typically only use your gap wedge on full shots it probably makes more sense to get one that goes with the set. If you like to use it in a variety of ways, then maybe a specialty wedge is more appropriate.

One thing to keep in mind is that as the lofts have shifted over the years (whether or not this is a good thing is a whole other topic for another thread). So a 9 iron of old is now called a PW. This is how we got the GW in the first place, to fill the gap left by the numbers shifting. I've typically used a set gap wedge but the CB-X wedges you mentioned have got me considering going with one of those for a gap wedge since they are actually cavity backs—I really like the concept of this particular model—I think it makes a whole ton of sense for those of us that like to play cavity backs and particularly GI irons.

 

 

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:cleveland-small: Launcher HB Driver 10.5* | :cleveland-small: Launcher HB 5W | :cleveland-small: Launcher HB 3H and 4H | :cleveland-small: Launcher CBX Irons 5-PW | :cleveland-small: CBX Wedges 50*, 54*, 58* | :cleveland-small: TFI 2135 Cero Putter | :srixon-small: Q Star Balls
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As I reviewed the specs on my irons, I definitely see the stronger lofts you mentioned in the PW and GW.  If I only have a 60* wedge in my bag for sand/rough shots, that leaves a 10 degree gap.

WITB

 

Driver: Ping G30 Driver 9* with TFC 419D

3 Wood: Ping G25

5 Wood: Callaway Big Bertha Ti (2005) 18*

Hybrid: Ping G25 20*

Irons: Callaway X Hot 4-SW with True Temper XP95 S300

Wedge: Callaway X Tour Chrome PM 60*

Putter: Seemore Si Black 32"

Ball: Titleist ProV1x

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I have a wedge question:

 

I have always used the PW that comes with the irons. I use it for a variety of shots from full swing to half swing to bump and run. I tend to be a divot taker more than a picker. What is the optimal sole grind for a club that gets used this way?

 

Also, how do you determine what sole grind best suits your swing and course conditions? There are so many different sole grinds to choose from.... it's very confusing. It would help if wedge manufacturers would give a simple run down on what each grind is for.

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I find these far more useful and versatile than wedges that are part of an iron set or simply having all be conventional wedges ... :rolleyes:

 

 

niblick.jpg  NIBLICK PW

niblick DWandSW.jpg  NIBLICKS (DW & SW)

niblickSW.jpg NIBLICK SW

CG16 60.jpg  CG-16 (LOW BOUNCE) LW

What's in Bobcat's Bag?  (Showing more than 14 clubs due to options)

 

Driver: :taylormade-small: 9.5* SLDR-C - 45.5" Miyazaki Kusala Black 61s, (1/2" tip)

Fairway: :taylormade-small: Tour issue 15* V-Steel 3W - Fujikura 757 Speeder Stiff

Fairway/Hybrid: :taylormade-small: 15* Rescue Fairway "3-Strong" - VP-90 Stiff 

Hybrids: :taylormade-small: #3 (19*) & #4 (22*) Rescue-Mid TP's - Vista Pro 90 Stiff 

Driving Irons: :taylormade-small: UDI #1 (16*) & #3 (20*) - KBS C-Taper Lite 110 Stiff

Iron Set: :taylormade-small: SLDR Irons (5-8i only) - KBS C-Taper Lite 110 Stiff

Hybrid Wedges: :cleveland-small: 2011 Niblicks 42*PW, 49*DW, 56*SW - Stock

SW/LW: :cleveland-small: CG-16 Black Pearl 58* Low Bounce 8* - Stock Steel Shaft

Putter: :bettinardi-small: BBX-81 Blade - Stock Bettinardi Steel Shaft 

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Like PMookie I've done both. I usually carry 3 wedges not from my iron set but am actually going to order a AW to match my Srixon 765 irons. Those are full shot clubs to me so I'd rather have them match up. I think of 54 degree and up as my "short game" clubs so want those to be more specialized.

 

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:callaway-small: Rogue SZ 10.5 *NEW* Fujikura Pro Green 65 X

:callaway-small: Rogue 15 degree Evnflow Blue 6.5

Back in the Bag :srixon-small: Z765 4-G Nippon Modus 120 Stiff

:vokey-small: 54 and 60

 

:bobby-grace-1: Amazing Grace Ass Kicker

 

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I have a wedge question:

 

I have always used the PW that comes with the irons. I use it for a variety of shots from full swing to half swing to bump and run. I tend to be a divot taker more than a picker. What is the optimal sole grind for a club that gets used this way?

 

Also, how do you determine what sole grind best suits your swing and course conditions? There are so many different sole grinds to choose from.... it's very confusing. It would help if wedge manufacturers would give a simple run down on what each grind is for.

I believe it's low bounce. Good for soft ground and diggers.

 

Cleveland and their 3 dot system was the easiest way for me to remember

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One additional thing that I have read but not verified ....

 

The wedges that come with the set produce slightly lower spin than a specialized wedge.  So even if the lofts are the same the specialized wedge might not fly quite as far.  

Driver - Ping G410 Plus 10.5 - Ping Tour 65 Stiff

4 Wood - Callaway Rogue - Project X Evenflow blue 6.0

Hybrids - Titleist 818 H2 -  3(c-1) and 4(c-4) - Tensei CK Blue 70 stiff

Irons - Callaway Apex  CF 16 5-AW - True Temper XP 95 Steel Stiff

Wedges - Ping Glide 54 SS, 58 TS

Putter - Edel e1 Torque balanced

Indianapolis

5.5 Index

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... As a general rule, wedges that come with the set are more forgiving and produce a higher trajectory. Primarily the reason better players want a separate MB wedge as they flight their wedges lower. I tried using the gw that came with my Fly Z+ but it was harder to control the trajectory. Otoh if you mishit your wedges occasionally, especially on pitches, the lower sole weighting will help you more than a MB style wedge. It just depends on what you want from your wedge. 

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Driver:     :taylormade-small: SIM2 Max 10.5* ... AD-IZ 6SR
Fairway:  :taylormade-small: SIM2 Max 15/18* ... Tensei Raw Blue 65R
Hybrids:    :taylormade-small: RBZ Tour Hybrid 21.5* ... Diamana Ltd 65R
Utility:      :taylormade-small: UDi 18* ... Even Flow Black 85R hy
Irons:        :cobra-small: 4-9 MIM Tour ... Steelfiber i95R
Wedges:   :taylormade-small: MG3 46*/50*/58* LB ... Steelfiber i95R
Putter:      :bobby-grace-1: 6330 LTD Edition ...  33.5"
Ball:           Maxfli     Maxfli Tour '23

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The PW in my set is 45*, I have never considered not using it from the set, I also carry 3 MD3 wedges in 50,54,58, all are bent 1 degree strong to give 4* gaps.

You have ask is the extra money for a different PW worth it, what will you gain/lose by not using the one from the set, I can hit my PW 135 yards, and it's one of the better clubs that I have in e bag, will I gain much by switching, I don't think I will, but I haven't had he need to try either. Most sets that are purchased or usually 4-PW or 5-PW, or 6-PW and you can add a GW to any of those, I've never seen a set that allows the purchase without the PW.

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Lefties are always in their Right Mind

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... There are quite a few sets today that are sold as 4-gw/dw/aw which of course are the traditional 3-pw sets of the past, they just have a different letter/number on the sole. 

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Driver:     :taylormade-small: SIM2 Max 10.5* ... AD-IZ 6SR
Fairway:  :taylormade-small: SIM2 Max 15/18* ... Tensei Raw Blue 65R
Hybrids:    :taylormade-small: RBZ Tour Hybrid 21.5* ... Diamana Ltd 65R
Utility:      :taylormade-small: UDi 18* ... Even Flow Black 85R hy
Irons:        :cobra-small: 4-9 MIM Tour ... Steelfiber i95R
Wedges:   :taylormade-small: MG3 46*/50*/58* LB ... Steelfiber i95R
Putter:      :bobby-grace-1: 6330 LTD Edition ...  33.5"
Ball:           Maxfli     Maxfli Tour '23

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... There are quite a few sets today that are sold as 4-gw/dw/aw which of course are the traditional 3-pw sets of the past, they just have a different letter/number on the sole.

Exactly, so if you want a different PW than the set, it costs you the set PW, $100+, then and additional $100+ for the one outside the set, so it needs to be a huge difference IMO to justify the extra cost. Manufacturers won't sell the set without the PW.

Lefties are always in their Right Mind

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Exactly, so if you want a different PW than the set, it costs you the set PW, $100+, then and additional $100+ for the one outside the set, so it needs to be a huge difference IMO to justify the extra cost. Manufacturers won't sell the set without the PW.

 

 

... While they are not on the shelf, most OEMs will sell you any combination of irons you want as long as they are in their current line up. Go to  https://www.tgw.com/golf-irons  and click on any iron. Then click the Enter Custom Specs above the iron and you can order irons one at a time or in any combination. Most stores don't wanna let you know this because they would rather sell stock on hand, but just about every OEM will sell any combination of clubs you want to order. 

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Driver:     :taylormade-small: SIM2 Max 10.5* ... AD-IZ 6SR
Fairway:  :taylormade-small: SIM2 Max 15/18* ... Tensei Raw Blue 65R
Hybrids:    :taylormade-small: RBZ Tour Hybrid 21.5* ... Diamana Ltd 65R
Utility:      :taylormade-small: UDi 18* ... Even Flow Black 85R hy
Irons:        :cobra-small: 4-9 MIM Tour ... Steelfiber i95R
Wedges:   :taylormade-small: MG3 46*/50*/58* LB ... Steelfiber i95R
Putter:      :bobby-grace-1: 6330 LTD Edition ...  33.5"
Ball:           Maxfli     Maxfli Tour '23

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