First Time Putter Build

[JRHufnagel]

I'm a college student building a putter for the first time with a putter I found in the basement. It's an older Wilson Sam Snead "2-Way" Blade similar to the one in the photo. I know a little about club building but not enough to go into this super confident so just a few questions.

 

1) How do I know what the shaft diameter is? Is it just .370, is that the standard even for older putters?

2) It used to be chromed, but after decades it's pretty beat up, will stripping it then buffing it with a bench grinder and buffing compound be enough to make it shiny?

3) Do I need to use centering beads? I see them used on drivers and the like, but will I need to use them?

 

Thank you for all the help!

[GolfSpy_APH]

Going to tag @McGolf here as he is a bit more of an expert than myself.

Also @funkyjudge will be able to better answer these!

[funkyjudge]

I am not 100% certain, but I believe that these putters used an “over the hosel” shaft that actually installs over a solid rod that protrudes out from the top of the putter’s hosel, or “neck”. Here is a description of the vintage reissue shafts that TrueTemper makes for such vintage putters:

• These "new old stock" vintage True Temper putter shafts are designed to install over the putter hosel.  The fit perfectly over the older style putters with a .350" tip and will install flush right over the top of it.  You can squeeze them onto a .355 but it's tight.  They are stepless and straight taper.  They are 35" long so depending on the putter will probably install to 37-39 inches and you can butt trim to desired length.

I’m not saying for sure that this is the shaft that you will need, and unfortunately I think that the only way you will know for sure is to disassemble the putter that you have and see if you indeed have an “over the hosel” shaft situation.  If you have calipers, you can then carefully measure the hosel I.D. or “neck” O.D.  and see if this is the shaft that you need.

Edited February 6 by funkyjudge

[JRHufnagel]

2 hours ago, funkyjudge said:

I think that the only way you will know for sure is to disassemble the putter that you have and see if you indeed have an “over the hosel” shaft situation

Thanks, I did that, the shaft does go into the hosel of the putter. I know you can't guarantee anything but is it more likely than not that it's the .370 OD number. Thanks for all the help!

[funkyjudge]

1 hour ago, JRHufnagel said:

Thanks, I did that, the shaft does go into the hosel of the putter. I know you can't guarantee anything but is it more likely than not that it's the .370 OD number. Thanks for all the help!

I can't be sure. Do you have a .370 tip iron or hybrid shaft around that you can try in the hosel? Considering the age of that putter, if it is identical to the pictured one in your initial post, it could take a .355 taper-tip, or even a .294 tip shaft.

Make sure that you thoroughly clean-out the hosel before trying to insert a shaft (and of course prior to installing the new shaft). If you have a hosel-cleaning wire brush that goes into a power drill, those are great for doing this job. Make sure that the brush is meant for cleaning a .370 hosel and that the wire bristles are still good when you use it for cleaning out the hosel.

[McGolf]

I was going to mention the post mount over the hosel also.  However The ferrule threw me off.

You can tell about the hosel by using a drill bit. Clean out the hosel, then try to insert the a 3/8 drill. The tip of the shaft is 370 and 380 is a typical dimension to receive the shaft and make room for the epoxy. Yes use centering beads. The drill may not go in easily or all the way but you should be able to tell. If it doesnt go in at all then try another drill and do a decimal conversion.

Chances are the putter will need a 370 or 355.

As far as finishing goes. you could remove the chrome with a grinder, sand wheel or sanding belt.  BUT!!! you will remove the protection from rusting. You could polish to a high shine and it will look good as long as is is sealed with something as simple as car wax.  It will also be lighter. As this is a first time into building that may not be a big deal.

 

[JRHufnagel]

5 hours ago, McGolf said:

Chances are the putter will need a 370 or 355.

So, it turns out that the bore in the hosel is around .30" (Calipers didn't go to the .001), I assume the .294" @funkyjudgehad mentioned. Any tips on sourcing this, and would I be absolutely insane to try and bore the hole out to 3/8? You guys have been a huge help, thanks again.

[funkyjudge]

8 hours ago, JRHufnagel said:

So, it turns out that the bore in the hosel is around .30" (Calipers didn't go to the .001), I assume the .294" @funkyjudgehad mentioned. Any tips on sourcing this, and would I be absolutely insane to try and bore the hole out to 3/8? You guys have been a huge help, thanks again.

It's getting virtually impossible to find those .294" "pencil-tip" shafts.  Maybe @mcgolf knows where to get one (or a real long-shot, maybe he actually has one!?

You would probably make the hosel wall extremely thin if you bored it out to .375"; I don't like that idea at all.

[McGolf]

294s are virtually a unicorn.  

I do have some old wood wood shaft I believe are 270s, but would be tooooooooooo soft for the putter

Since it is a putter you might consider making cuts the length of the shaft much like the callaways did woods and irons in the day. 

Using a 355 shaft while making a 3 or 4 cuts may allow you the need room for insertion. If it did not go in far enough then I would look at reaming it to 320 ish

[funkyjudge]

18 hours ago, McGolf said:

294s are virtually a unicorn.  

I do have some old wood wood shaft I believe are 270s, but would be tooooooooooo soft for the putter

Since it is a putter you might consider making cuts the length of the shaft much like the callaways did woods and irons in the day. 

Using a 355 shaft while making a 3 or 4 cuts may allow you the need room for insertion. If it did not go in far enough then I would look at reaming it to 320 ish

Good idea regarding slitting the shaft tip, Jim!

Also reaming to about .320 would probably not compromise the hosel wall.  Taking it to .335 would probably be about the limit, and I’m not sure that I would feel comfortable going that far.