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Are you using C-C wedges?

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The "high spin wedge shot" thread has me wondering........who here is using C-C wedges? I have been since last season and I have had to make a large adjustment in my game. I used to be able to throw a full wedge 15 feet behind the hole and know that it was coming back. Now I play hop and stop near the pin; sometimes if I catch it perfect, it will come back a couple feet. Around the green, I'm actually playing better with the new wedges. With the old wedges, I used to hit the two hop and stop shot, now it's a check hop and roll out. I've already chipped in more this season than I have in the last 10 seasons combined.

 

 

Are you using C-C wedges? If so, how has it changed your game?

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I am. Can't say it's made a big impact.

I think a lot of it has to do with the wedges that I'm playing. I'm gaming the Maltby's, because one they are cheaper (I replace my wedges every season) and two they are playable (meaning I can hit the shots I want with them). They certainly aren't the softest feeling wedges, which is about the only thing I don't like about them. Next season I will be trying out Wishon PCF Tours.

 

FWIW, I think the wedges you are gaming (Ping Anser) are the best wedges on the market; I just can't afford to replace those every year.

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I have some that are and some that are not C-C. The ones I current bag are not.


 

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I think a lot of it has to do with the wedges that I'm playing. I'm gaming the Maltby's, because one they are cheaper (I replace my wedges every season) and two they are playable (meaning I can hit the shots I want with them). They certainly aren't the softest feeling wedges, which is about the only thing I don't like about them. Next season I will be trying out Wishon PCF Tours.

 

FWIW, I think the wedges you are gaming (Ping Anser) are the best wedges on the market; I just can't afford to replace those every year.

 

I have similar experience with the Dynacrafts. I choose those because they were lower bounce than the Maltbys, but the feel is probably similar. Compared to my old CG15s, I really don't notice a huge difference in spin.

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The "high spin wedge shot" thread has me wondering........who here is using C-C wedges? I have been since last season and I have had to make a large adjustment in my game. I used to be able to throw a full wedge 15 feet behind the hole and know that it was coming back. Now I play hop and stop near the pin; sometimes if I catch it perfect, it will come back a couple feet. Around the green, I'm actually playing better with the new wedges. With the old wedges, I used to hit the two hop and stop shot, now it's a check hop and roll out. I've already chipped in more this season than I have in the last 10 seasons combined.

 

 

Are you using C-C wedges? If so, how has it changed your game?

 

I am using the C-C grooves, honestly I find them easier as well to predict the behavior of the ball. It made the short game easier if you have lots of green to work with. It made it a lot harder if you short side yourself.

 

I am a super high spin player so my results probably very from other people around MGS... I had a lot of issues with over spinning old grooves off the front of greens, my biggest recorded spin was a 60* wedge full at 100 yards, landed on the back of the green spun literally 50 feet off the front of the green with a slight slope back to front not huge maybe 3* of pitch. I was shacking my head as my friend walked off the distance of spin.

 

I would say over all about a 20% reduction on full swings in the fairway a good thing IMHO keep from "over spinning" the wedges. I don't know how many times I took PW at 100 yards to take a ton of spin off to have it one hop and stop before anyways. Now I can just hit 56* to 100 and get the same result.

 

I would say a 30-40% & 40-50% spin reduction on first cut rough & deep rough. I just had to start playing the landing spot shorter of the hole, makes the front pins tricky sometimes have to land them on the collar in firm conditions and run them on the front.

 

Where I saw a huge change was short game shots from the rough. These balls are hard as heck to get to check, so I stopped trying, 60* rolls out about 5 to 8 feet, 56* about 10 to 12 feet, 52* 15 to 18, etc just have to figure out typical release pattern for the wedges on a normal pitch shot rather then how much bite it will have. I hated trying to guess how much spin on the old grooves it was going to have coming out of rough around the green, now that I use a roll out more bump and run method it is a ton easier and your right I hole more shots and get them closer. I started keeping track of my stats this season again, it is a pain to short side yourself with new grooves costs me a bogey almost every time. If i have green to work with i have a higher success rate of getting up and down.

 

Over all on the new grooves you will catch some flyers out of the rough, in terms of coming out hot and / or no spin hardly. It gets worse in wet conditions. It starts raining be prepared for shots even from the fairway to come out hot.


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Tour Edge Exotics CB3 Tour 16.5* @ 42.50" w/ RT Technologies Zeus (85g) Stiff (Tipped 1/2")

Srixon Z U45 19.0* @ 39.75" w/ KBS Tour-V X-Stiff (Soft Stepped 1x)

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Yes , I use CC wedges & unlike JM, I would say I'm average spin & never really got into the "spun-back" shots....I'm sorta glad that I didn't because my brother(3.5 GHIN), who while not as high as JM, used to spin-back 25-30' easily & he made the switch this year and he's going thru hell adjusting...

 

He's a statistician & stat-freak & he keeps stats on every wedge(I don't...lol), and bottom line, his accumulative wedge "leaves" are 6.8" further from the hole this year...Also contributing to that # is the fact that his wedge approaches from the rough is up 6.5%...That puts a lot of pressure on his putter....Fairways & Greens 4ever....

 

My 50' was extreme, 25 - 30' was average for me so about the same as you have listed that your brother has. The largest spin i have gotten from a C-C wedge in two seasons now has been about 15 feet thanks to some slope help, most time about 5 feet is average. Where on full shots you'd have to be very long and rip it back to bellow the hole, now you can just pin hunt it should be pretty close on full swings. I am not trying to say that it was an easy adjustment. The adjustment on full shots from the fairway was easier for me no longer scared of "over spin" too often.

 

The adjustment for rough shots and short game was not so easy. It took me a full season to really get the grasp of "this will not bite out of the rough" even in the fairway "this might check a touch but it will roll" on shots that were less then 50 yards. Problem adjusting is that on old grooves it was through it all the way to the pin it will stop where it hits from the rough now it releases 5, 10, 15 feet without blinking an eye on partial shots.

 

He sounds like a stats driven player, in practice he might find it useful to hit 30 yard pitch shots with all the wedges with 5 yards of carry and 25 yards of green (lots of green to work with), 10 shots of each wedge, mark the landing point measure the roll out and then take the average. He will probably start being able to picture the ball rolling closer to the hole or in more often once he has a clear picture of the release of each wedge compared to the landing spot. I would think that would be the easiest way to figure it out, landing spot to finish point would be your average release.


KZG VC-420 ML (10.5* Loft & 0.2* Open Face Angle) @ 44.50" (2" Bore Depth) w/ Graphite Design Tour AD DI-7 Stiff

Tour Edge Exotics CB3 Tour 16.5* @ 42.50" w/ RT Technologies Zeus (85g) Stiff (Tipped 1/2")

Srixon Z U45 19.0* @ 39.75" w/ KBS Tour-V X-Stiff (Soft Stepped 1x)

Cleveland 588 MB 3-P @ 38.75" - 35.25" (0.25" under), 60.5* - 64.0* (0.5* upright), 22* - 48* (1* weak) w/ KBS Tour-V X-Stiff (Soft Stepped 1x)

Cleveland 588 RTX 2.0 Black Satin (Blade) 54-12 @ 35.25", 64.00* w/ True Temper Dynamic Gold s400

Cleveland 588 RTX 2.0 Black Satin (Blade) 60-10 @ 35.25", 64.00* w/ True Temper Dynamic Gold s400

Lamkin UTX Wrap, Including Grip Core: 1/32 over (top hand), 1/16 over (bottom hand)

Srixon Z-Star

 

Golf Swing & Putting -- Bruce Rearick (Burnt Edges Consulting)

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I recently purchased two new Callaway C-C wedges (Jaws X-Forged) 56 and 60 and have seen a definite improvement in my short game. I took a lot of time deciding which wedges to purchase. For me, the look of the wedge is very important. It's funny, but I can't pinpoint what makes a wedge look right for me, but whatever it is, the Callaway wedges had it. I've used both Vokey's and Cleveland before. With Cleveland wedges there were times when I had difficulty getting aimed correctly, and I had distance control problems on pitches and chips with the Vokey's.

 

I've never had a problem getting enough spin, so the C-C grooves are OK for me. Maybe the slight reduction in spin helped, but I really think it is the confidence I get from having a wedge that looks right behind the ball. I'm really comfortable knowing how the ball will rebound off the face, and distance control is automatic and very predictable. I've never been a big fan of Callaway before, but once you get a club that really works for you it changes your perspective completely.

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My wedge shots never spin back regardless the type of grooves I play :lol: I like predictability!


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My wedges are conforming and have been for over a year. I honestly don't think that I notice much difference on full shots, I don't really get my wedges to spin back much, my 8 and 9 iron will zip back, my wedges have always pretty much hit and end up within a couple feet of the ball mark. I know its taking some spin to do that but it doesn't appear to different than the non conforming clubs.

 

Where I really notice the groove change is from the 1/2 shots and pitches, especially out of anything less than a pure contact lie. I just recently changed my wedges around to better be able to play a roll out shot because that is what the ball is doing now anyhow. The ball will still check but it rolls out much further than the old grooves. Getting it to one hop and stop? I remember that shot, don't see it much lately. I can't say I'm a big fan of the change. It hasn't made any noticeable difference on tour, so why again are they muddling around in my gear? My hope is that the wedge manufacturers needed a boost and in a couple years they'll reverse the ruling so we can all go buy our new 'old' wedges again!


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if I hit a great shot with the Jaws(pre-CC), I ruined the ball...95% of the time, if it was a clean ball on club contact, I chewed the ball up....

I had to stop playing urethane covered balls when I had those wedges, because they spun so much. I played the Bridgestone e6 and I could still get it to back up. Those wedges were insane; I remember the first time I hit a full wedge from the fairway, I hit it about 30' over the pin into the fringe and it came back to 3'. I was using a Callaway Tour ix ball and when I got to it, it literally had chunks of the cover hanging off of it.....not a scuff, chunks. I was going through half a dozen balls a round with those wedges.

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I confess to having a real attitude problem on this issue. When the CC wedge edict was announced, my immediate reaction was to purchase wedges that didn't even conform to the old rules.

 

My Spin Doctors are a hoot. Completely uncontrolable spin unless I play them forward in my stance to hit parachute balls, and even then, they still sometimes wind back detrimentally. I'm destroying golf balls and don't care. I'm having fun.


 

 

 

 

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