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Pitchfix When Green Tears?


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Looking into picking up a Pitchfix tool, specifically the kind with the barbs on the end like on the "Twister" model.  However, it seems that this tool is only useful if the green "dents" whereas if the green were to tear, it wouldn't be useful at all.

 

Am I correct in this thinking?  Or am I missing something?

 

Unfortunately, greens on most of the courses around me tend to tear when I land on them... twice a round.

 

Thanks,

Chappy

 

Twister-orange-seal-1024x10241.png

 

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Driver:  Mizuno JPX-900

3 Wood:  Mizuno JPX-900

3 Hybrid:  Mizuno JPX-900

4 Hybrid:  Mizuno JPX-900

Irons:  (5-6) Mizuno MH-5, (7-PW) Mizuno MP-5

50°:  Mizuno S18 (Gun Metal)

54°:  Mizuno S18 (Gun Metal)

58°:  Mizuno S18 (Gun Metal)

Putter:  Odyssey O-Works #9 (WBW)

Ball: Snell MTB-Red

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Good question, I'll ask our Super about it tomorrow, as I'd only be guessing. 

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Always wondered that myself; interested to hear the answer. 

Driver:  :ping-small: G400 Max 9* w/ KBS Tour Driven
Fairway: :titelist-small: TS3 15*  w/Project X Hzardous Smoke
Hybrids:  :titelist-small: 915H 21* w/KBS Tour Graphite Hybrid Prototype
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Irons:      :honma:TR20V 6-11 w/Vizard TR20-85 Graphite
Wedge:  :titleist-small: 54/12D, 60/8M w/:Accra iWedge 90 Graphite
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Good question, I'll ask our Super about it tomorrow, as I'd only be guessing.

Thanks!

 

 

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Driver:  Mizuno JPX-900

3 Wood:  Mizuno JPX-900

3 Hybrid:  Mizuno JPX-900

4 Hybrid:  Mizuno JPX-900

Irons:  (5-6) Mizuno MH-5, (7-PW) Mizuno MP-5

50°:  Mizuno S18 (Gun Metal)

54°:  Mizuno S18 (Gun Metal)

58°:  Mizuno S18 (Gun Metal)

Putter:  Odyssey O-Works #9 (WBW)

Ball: Snell MTB-Red

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So I spoke to my Super and here's his take.

 

As long as the mark is repaired correctly, he doesn't really care what's used, regular divot tool, pitchfix, a tee or heck a car key..ha

 

The key point is correctly, as most of us probably know it's pushing the ball mark into the center from the outer edges of it.   He said many people see the pros stick the tool in the ground an pry up which is incorrect.

 

The only time he says that is ok, is if it's just a dent, and no broken surface.  But if the surface is torn and dirt is exposed, it should be the first method and the tool used doesn't really matter.

 

hope that helps.  BTW, he said he even appreciaties everyone having the discussion and wanting to do it correctly. 

:ping-small: G430 Max 10K 

:titelist-small: TSiR1 15.0 Aldlia Ascent 60g

:titelist-small: TSR2 18.0 PX Aldila Ascent 6og

:titelist-small: TSi1 20 Aldila Ascent Shafts R

:titelist-small: T350 5-GW SteelFiber I80 

:titelist-small: SM10 48F/54M and58K

:ping-small: S159 48S/52S/56W/60B

:scotty-cameron-1: Select 5.5 Flowback 35" 

:titelist-small: ProV1  Play number 12

 

 

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Thanks. Read elsewhere that someone didn't like the pitch fix model we are discussing because I wouldn't pull the divot up in wet conditions.

 

I think I will stick with my two prong model since I generally expose dirt.

CG2...Question in the torn with exposed dirt. Should we reuse the grass that has been torn away or do our best to pull new grass toward the center?

Driver:  :ping-small: G400 Max 9* w/ KBS Tour Driven
Fairway: :titelist-small: TS3 15*  w/Project X Hzardous Smoke
Hybrids:  :titelist-small: 915H 21* w/KBS Tour Graphite Hybrid Prototype
                :titelist-small: 915H  24*  w/KBS Tour Graphite Hybrid Prototype        
Irons:      :honma:TR20V 6-11 w/Vizard TR20-85 Graphite
Wedge:  :titleist-small: 54/12D, 60/8M w/:Accra iWedge 90 Graphite
Putter:   Sacks Parente MC 3 Stripe

Backup Putters:  :odyssey-small: Milled Collection RSX 2, :seemore-small: mFGP2, :cameron-small: Futura 5W, :taylormade-small:TM-180

Member:  MGS Hitsquad since 2017697979773_DSCN2368(Custom).JPG.a1a25f5e430d9eebae93c5d652cbd4b9.JPG

 

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Thanks. Read elsewhere that someone didn't like the pitch fix model we are discussing because I wouldn't pull the divot up in wet conditions.

 

I think I will stick with my two prong model since I generally expose dirt.

CG2...Question in the torn with exposed dirt. Should we reuse the grass that has been torn away or do our best to pull new grass toward the center?

He said, it's best just to push the current grass all towards the center.  replacing the torn grass that usually lays a foot or so away will take longer to heal. 

 

And I'm with you, I'll continue to use my two prong one, and even have a one prong one as well.  Both have done fine.

:ping-small: G430 Max 10K 

:titelist-small: TSiR1 15.0 Aldlia Ascent 60g

:titelist-small: TSR2 18.0 PX Aldila Ascent 6og

:titelist-small: TSi1 20 Aldila Ascent Shafts R

:titelist-small: T350 5-GW SteelFiber I80 

:titelist-small: SM10 48F/54M and58K

:ping-small: S159 48S/52S/56W/60B

:scotty-cameron-1: Select 5.5 Flowback 35" 

:titelist-small: ProV1  Play number 12

 

 

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Great info, thank you guys.  Cnosil, your question was a great one.  I've always wondered what I should do with the grass that "accordions" up at the back edge of the ball mark when the green tears.  Sounds like if it's still connected at the back edge, just stretch it back out over the mark and push in like normal.

Driver:  Mizuno JPX-900

3 Wood:  Mizuno JPX-900

3 Hybrid:  Mizuno JPX-900

4 Hybrid:  Mizuno JPX-900

Irons:  (5-6) Mizuno MH-5, (7-PW) Mizuno MP-5

50°:  Mizuno S18 (Gun Metal)

54°:  Mizuno S18 (Gun Metal)

58°:  Mizuno S18 (Gun Metal)

Putter:  Odyssey O-Works #9 (WBW)

Ball: Snell MTB-Red

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  • 4 weeks later...

I actually have both versions of the Pitchfix divot tools (the traditional metal "fork" and the coated pins).  Unfortunately, the pins seemed like a great idea but I abandoned it because instead of repairing the divot, I end up just poking a bunch of holes into it (even if I do this on an angle and try to twist).

 

At the same time, Pitchfix switchblade with traditional fork does exactly what it's supposed and, because it folds closed, I'm never worried about poking myself or putting a hole in pants/shorts. 

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I have the Pitchfix Twister and the Hybrid. 

 

I stopped using the Twister because it seemed like i was doing more harm than good. But after watching videos on their site it appears i was using it wrong! 

 

My home course has really soft greens that often tear or leave pretty deep craters and the twister always seemed to turn a partial tear into a full tear. But I was sticking the prongs too far into the ground according to the video. 

 

I now just stick to their switchblade model. 

I saw they also had this cool looking alignme aid. Not that I need another ball marking accessory but it looks awesome. 

 

Is there a gadget junkies anonymous i can attend? 

Driver: :callaway-small: Epic Max LS with Autoflex X-stiff 

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And most importantly, dont twist the divot but rather pull up

I've heard that also -- don't twist, push up gently.

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