Show us your Maltby!!!

[GolfSpy SAM]

Quick question for all you club builders out there, specifically when it comes to the Maltby universal hosel irons.  I'm building a TS1-IM for my buddy who just got fit into P790s, to show him that he really doesn't need to spend $308/club as the fitter was speccing out (I know...it's incredible).  

I'd like to build it up with the Nippon Modus 115 stiff, which is a ".355 shaft.  I know it will seat nicely in the recess at the bottom of the hosel, but my question is whether or not I'll need to get any kind of shim or glass beads to fill the space around what would normally fit the .370 shaft area.  Is the seating deep enough to be secure without this?  

Also, for those of you knowledgeable about ferrules, if I were to order a set of BB&F ferrules, I'm assuming they'll fit no problem on the .355 shafts, correct?  Any tips on assembling those? 

Thanks all!

[azstu324]

1 hour ago, GolfSpy SAM said:

Quick question for all you club builders out there,

[GolfSpy SAM]

2 minutes ago, azstu324 said:

Yes, Dr. Rosenpenis. Sorry, Dr. Rosenrosen.  

[Deadwalleye]

2 hours ago, GolfSpy SAM said:

Quick question for all you club builders out there, specifically when it comes to the Maltby universal hosel irons.  I'm building a TS1-IM for my buddy who just got fit into P790s, to show him that he really doesn't need to spend $308/club as the fitter was speccing out (I know...it's incredible).  

I'd like to build it up with the Nippon Modus 115 stiff, which is a ".355 shaft.  I know it will seat nicely in the recess at the bottom of the hosel, but my question is whether or not I'll need to get any kind of shim or glass beads to fill the space around what would normally fit the .370 shaft area.  Is the seating deep enough to be secure without this?  

Also, for those of you knowledgeable about ferrules, if I were to order a set of BB&F ferrules, I'm assuming they'll fit no problem on the .355 shafts, correct?  Any tips on assembling those? 

Thanks all!

I would use some glass beads mixed into the epoxy. And the BB&F will fit perfectly. 

[azstu324]

1 hour ago, GolfSpy SAM said:

Quick question for all you club builders out there, specifically when it comes to the Maltby universal hosel irons.  I'm building a TS1-IM for my buddy who just got fit into P790s, to show him that he really doesn't need to spend $308/club as the fitter was speccing out (I know...it's incredible).  

I'd like to build it up with the Nippon Modus 115 stiff, which is a ".355 shaft.  I know it will seat nicely in the recess at the bottom of the hosel, but my question is whether or not I'll need to get any kind of shim or glass beads to fill the space around what would normally fit the .370 shaft area.  Is the seating deep enough to be secure without this?  

Also, for those of you knowledgeable about ferrules, if I were to order a set of BB&F ferrules, I'm assuming they'll fit no problem on the .355 shafts, correct?  Any tips on assembling those? 

Thanks all!

So far my experience with the universal hosel and .355 tips has been pretty low maintenance. From what I've experienced the tip tapers out just enough to be snug at the top of the hosel. I know some like to use glass beads but personally I've had really good success just using the golf works quickset tour epoxy. Not only does it fully cure within a couple of hours but it's quite a bit thicker and actually helps hold everything in place. Normally I'll just add some epoxy to the inside of the hosel and the tip of the shaft and let it sit for maybe a minute or two just to get a little extra thick but still workable. 

Regarding the BB&F ferrules, they should be fine. .355 shafts work with both size ferrules and the bigger end diameter should actually be .370 so they will match up with the top of the hosel. You just can't put a .355 on a .370. hopefully that all made sense. 

[Kenny B]

1 hour ago, GolfSpy SAM said:

Quick question for all you club builders out there, specifically when it comes to the Maltby universal hosel irons.  I'm building a TS1-IM for my buddy who just got fit into P790s, to show him that he really doesn't need to spend $308/club as the fitter was speccing out (I know...it's incredible).  

I'd like to build it up with the Nippon Modus 115 stiff, which is a ".355 shaft.  I know it will seat nicely in the recess at the bottom of the hosel, but my question is whether or not I'll need to get any kind of shim or glass beads to fill the space around what would normally fit the .370 shaft area.  Is the seating deep enough to be secure without this?  

Also, for those of you knowledgeable about ferrules, if I were to order a set of BB&F ferrules, I'm assuming they'll fit no problem on the .355 shafts, correct?  Any tips on assembling those? 

Thanks all!

You don’t need shims or beads to install a .355 shaft in the Maltby Universal Hosel.  The hosel is bored for .370 with a .355 hole in the bottom.  The .355 taper tip shafts taper out to .370 before the top of the hosel, so it centers and any void is filled with epoxy.

Not sure about the ferrules.  Since the shaft is seated further in the hosel, a .370 ferrule should be used but a .355 ferrule should be able to be stretched if soaked in hot water first.

 

[azstu324]

1 hour ago, GolfSpy SAM said:

Yes, Dr. Rosenpenis. Sorry, Dr. Rosenrosen.  

Can I borrow your towel? My car just hit a water buffalo.. 

Top 10 best for sure! 

[KOG]

You can heat up .355 ferrules with a heat gun or hot water and fit them onto .370 shafts. Or you can use a drill bit of that diameter, or wrap sandpaper on a drill bit a lil smaller and give it a pass. Its not a big to do

[azstu324]

8 minutes ago, Kenny B said:

.355 ferrule should be able to be stretched if soaked in hot water first

Another option is to swab the inside of the ferrule with acetone OR just run some sandpaper on the inside. I'll normally wrap a piece of 60 grit around a Philip screwdriver and turn it inside the ferrule to score it and prevent any ferrule creep. If it's too snug I'll just keep sanding it out until it fits. 

[KOG]

10 minutes ago, azstu324 said:

Another option is to swab the inside of the ferrule with acetone OR just run some sandpaper on the inside. I'll normally wrap a piece of 60 grit around a Philip screwdriver and turn it inside the ferrule to score it and prevent any ferrule creep. If it's too snug I'll just keep sanding it out until it fits. 

Been meaning to follow up. How are the Royal Chorded grips holding up and how do you like them? I have the MMT matte black shafts that I think they would look great on.

Edited March 13 by KOG

[azstu324]

14 minutes ago, KOG said:

Been meaning to follow up. How are the Royal Chorded grips holding up and how do you like them? I have the MMT matte black shafts that I think they would look great on.

So far they're awesome! They're fairly soft feeling for a cord grip which I like. The cord is more subtle than aggressive and doesn't tear up my right hand like others have. So far I highly recommend them!

Just a heads up, they are kind of a medium taper reduction grip. Not quite an MCC +4 but not quite a standard taper. For the price you really won't find anything better and they do look pretty cool at the same time. 

[GolfSpy SAM]

Okay - thanks so much! I ordered some glass beads before reading all this - figure for $7 it's worth having on hand.  

  The shafts are .355, so bought the 355 ferrules (in Cowboys colors, as my buddy's a Dallas fan and has the grey Winn Dri-tec wraps coming, so that should look pretty great (fingers crossed).  Do you think I'll still need to soak/heat/sand the ferrules in order to get them on? Not an issue regardless, just figured I'd ask.

  On another topic: he was fit into both the P790s (which he really loved in comparison with the ZX5 II and the Mizzy 245s), so I'm confident the TS1-IM is the way to go for him.  He was also, though, fit into Vokeys (50-08/56-12/60-08).  Do we think building him up a 56 TSW (as by default it's 56-12) is worth it?  I know some of you have played the TSW's in the past (may even still be playing them), so thought I'd take a stab at some feedback on the wedges vs. the newer releases (S159 are high up in the mix as well).  Wedges have been his achilles, though I'm quite sure it's technique over equipment - to be fair his (gamer) Vokeys are 4 years old, I believe, so a refresh is worth it.

  Right now I'm split on just going ahead and sending him to Vokey for his wedges (even if TrueSpec was trying to charge him an extra $60 for a KBS 610 Wedges shaft and $18 for the grips he likes). The settings he was suggested are standard, so it's not like he couldn't get them straight from Titleist (or Dicks or something) and just not do the upgraded shaft. 

  Anyone have a take on the TSW's? 

[Shrek74]

6 minutes ago, GolfSpy SAM said:

  The shafts are .355, so bought the 355 ferrules (in Cowboys colors, as my buddy's a Dallas fan and has the grey Winn Dri-tec wraps coming, so that should look pretty great (fingers crossed).  Do you think I'll still need to soak/heat/sand the ferrules in order to get them on? Not an issue regardless, just figured I'd ask.

Do you? No. But it never hurts to give the inside a tiny bit of fine grit sanding just to give a nice rough'ish surface for the epoxy to really grab hold of.

[IndyBonzo]

I just put some BB&F ferrules on some irons and did have to drill out the inside just a little bit to get them to fit.  It’s a simple thing to do and does not take much time.

Also, I reshafted my Maltby TS3/TS4 irons with .355 Project X shafts and did not need any beads or shims.  I am not a pro builder by any stretch but have had no issues at all.

Good luck with your build @GolfSpy SAM!  Pics also please!

[azstu324]

57 minutes ago, GolfSpy SAM said:

Okay - thanks so much! I ordered some glass beads before reading all this - figure for $7 it's worth having on hand.  

  The shafts are .355, so bought the 355 ferrules (in Cowboys colors, as my buddy's a Dallas fan and has the grey Winn Dri-tec wraps coming, so that should look pretty great (fingers crossed).  Do you think I'll still need to soak/heat/sand the ferrules in order to get them on? Not an issue regardless, just figured I'd ask.

  On another topic: he was fit into both the P790s (which he really loved in comparison with the ZX5 II and the Mizzy 245s), so I'm confident the TS1-IM is the way to go for him.  He was also, though, fit into Vokeys (50-08/56-12/60-08).  Do we think building him up a 56 TSW (as by default it's 56-12) is worth it?  I know some of you have played the TSW's in the past (may even still be playing them), so thought I'd take a stab at some feedback on the wedges vs. the newer releases (S159 are high up in the mix as well).  Wedges have been his achilles, though I'm quite sure it's technique over equipment - to be fair his (gamer) Vokeys are 4 years old, I believe, so a refresh is worth it.

  Right now I'm split on just going ahead and sending him to Vokey for his wedges (even if TrueSpec was trying to charge him an extra $60 for a KBS 610 Wedges shaft and $18 for the grips he likes). The settings he was suggested are standard, so it's not like he couldn't get them straight from Titleist (or Dicks or something) and just not do the upgraded shaft. 

  Anyone have a take on the TSW's? 

As for the ferrules, in my experience, and just like all golf equipment, NOTHING is created equally. You'll just have to have a Macgyver move ready in the event that the ferrules don't quite fit perfectly. 

As for the TSW's, I love those wedges! That said, I consider myself a fairly proficient wedgesmith. I've put a ton of time into my wedge game. The TSW's are nothing short of a "pro" style profile. Smaller, thinner, sharper edges. Many have complained that they're not the easiest to hit because of their profile and grind/bounce options. IMHO, if your buddy isn't the strongest wedge player, I might not recommend the TSW.. but, the Max milled might be a fantastic option. It's a no-nonsense approach to the wedge. Much more forgiving and friendly with the wide sole, slight offset, and more rounded leading edge. It doesn't lend itself particularly well to finesse shots or creativeness in opening or shutting the face but it doesn't sound like that's something that your friend needs to be concerned with at this point. Just my $.02

[GolfSpy SAM]

Love it - thanks all!

[Shrek74]

2 hours ago, azstu324 said:

As for the TSW's, I love those wedges! That said, I consider myself a fairly proficient wedgesmith. I've put a ton of time into my wedge game. The TSW's are nothing short of a "pro" style profile. Smaller, thinner, sharper edges. Many have complained that they're not the easiest to hit because of their profile and grind/bounce options. IMHO, if your buddy isn't the strongest wedge player, I might not recommend the TSW.. but, the Max milled might be a fantastic option. It's a no-nonsense approach to the wedge. Much more forgiving and friendly with the wide sole, slight offset, and more rounded leading edge. It doesn't lend itself particularly well to finesse shots or creativeness in opening or shutting the face but it doesn't sound like that's something that your friend needs to be concerned with at this point. Just my $.02

The Max wedges did catch my eye. I prefer the full-face grooves, now that I've played them on my Sub70 JB Full Groove wedges. Especially when opening up the face for those tight bunker shots or needing to go over something to get onto the green. I'm no wedge wizard by any means, but I do open the face on occasion but only with the 60. My previous Vokey setup was 50F, 54S, 58M. So you say these don't work well for opening up the face?

[azstu324]

I may have placed an order for a TC Pro 7 wood AND a PTM-5 head to build with another MPF shafts and a WINN NTP 1.10 grip. Should hopefully all be here Wednesday

[Shrek74]

13 hours ago, azstu324 said:

I may have placed an order for a TC Pro 7 wood AND a PTM-5 head to build with another MPF shafts and a WINN NTP 1.10 grip. Should hopefully all be here Wednesday

As with driver, I'm curious to learn more about their FW woods and hybrids. I really like my Sub70's, but am always looking for better (and if possible, less expensive).

[Shrek74]

Haven't pulled the trigger, yet. But I'm thinking really hard about it.

[Ireland Golf Lover]

The Moment X putter sucks.

[Shrek74]

Just now, Ireland Golf Lover said:

The Moment X putter sucks.

Please expound.

[Ireland Golf Lover]

It sounds horrible, the head is to light for the shaft and grip, and distance control is “iffy.”

[Shrek74]

19 minutes ago, Ireland Golf Lover said:

It sounds horrible, the head is to light for the shaft and grip, and distance control is “iffy.”

Well, all 3 of these are player dependent issues. What sounds bad to one, may be fine to another. With putters, the ball being played may help or hurt that as well. Weight is a feel thing for all players, especially with the putter. Distance control is certainly player dependent based on contact, ball, and how hard the player swings.

So your it "sucks" comment is more along the lines of it didn't work for you. What doesn't work for one, may work for another.

[azstu324]

34 minutes ago, Ireland Golf Lover said:

It sounds horrible, the head is to light for the shaft and grip, and distance control is “iffy.”

384g (head + hosel) is pretty substantial for a putter head. Probably on the heavier side of what most big brands use. Did you try it with a standard shaft? Or the Pure Track stability shaft? I know their stability shaft is a hit/miss for many. That could definitely pull a lot of the head weight away and be off-putting for some. 

The way @Shrek74has it set looks to be a pretty solid build though with a good counter weight in the grip for overall distance control. I can't speak for sound and feel on these being aluminum. 

[Shrek74]

25 minutes ago, azstu324 said:

384g (head + hosel) is pretty substantial for a putter head. Probably on the heavier side of what most big brands use.

The way @Shrek74has it set looks to be a pretty solid build though with a good counter weight in the grip for overall distance control. I can't speak for sound and feel on these being aluminum. 

My current gamer (Sub70 002 mid-mallet) is 390g with pretty much the same shaft and the exact same grip (just different color). So the feel should be almost the same. The aluminum will be the unknown, although I don't think it'll be much different than the sound the PXG Battle Ready putter I had before made.

[azstu324]

39 minutes ago, Shrek74 said:

My current gamer (Sub70 002 mid-mallet) is 390g with pretty much the same shaft and the exact same grip (just different color). So the feel should be almost the same. The aluminum will be the unknown, although I don't think it'll be much different than the sound the PXG Battle Ready putter I had before made.

Yeah sounds pretty close. You could even tip weight the shaft just to fine tune if needed. 

[Deepred]

I had the XII, never wanted a putter more than that one. Loved everything about it and couldn't make solid contact to save me. Lol changed grips, added weight just couldn't stop hitting it on the toe.

I still recommend it to people and no one has complained

Edited March 19 by Deepred
Corrected text

[azstu324]

For anyone who cares, I've got another Maltby review that I'm currently lining up with Gabe from Letsplaythru.. stay tuned!

[OhioGolf72]

This thread has been so helpful in assessing the various Maltby iron options. I wanted to share my experience and seek some advice in case it helps anyone else figure things out! 

I discovered Maltby after getting some Kirkland signature irons this winter and doing some research on DTC brands. I have been playing old Cobra Fly Z XL irons for the last ten years and my ball striking has improved enough that I want something with a better feel. 

I live in suburban Columbus so I was able to go out to The GolfWorks for an iron fitting. I hit the KE4 Max, TS1, TS1 IM, TS3, TS4, and the new TE+. Just an FYI to anyone interested in going out to The GolfWorks, the fitting costs $30 and they do not trade out shafts on irons like I am accustomed to from other fitting experiences. For example, the TS3 had Dynamic Gold S300 shafts, the TS1 IM had the TT elevate 95 stiff shaft, and the others had the stock TT Score shafts in stiff flex. The fitter really pushed the Score shafts, which I didn’t mind, but is just something to know going in. Info on my game in case it helps you assess—I swing a 7 iron around 90 MPH and depending on shaft, carry a cut 155-160 and a draw 165-170. If I miss, it is out over the toe. 

A couple of notes that could help others who won’t be able to go out and hit these clubs based on the location and don’t want to pay $80-100 for a test club: 

1) Every iron performed well and consistently. As I have been looking for new irons, I have hit a lot of the big OEM new irons and every Maltby performed as well or better. They were much more forgiving on toe misses than others I have hit with the exception of Mizuno Hot Metals. 

2) The biggest difference between the models is in feel, and the information you see in reviews online on the feel is pretty accurate. For example, the TS1 IM is just a softer feeling and slightly more forgiving version of other hollow-body irons you can hit out there. The TS4 and TE+ are firmer and you get pretty clear feedback, but both feel incredible when you absolutely pure them. The TS3 and TE+, unsurprisingly based on design features, perform similarly. The KE4 Max felt the best of any similarly designed game improvement iron I’ve hit, with the exception of Mizuno Hot Metals. 

If you are thinking about saving and getting the original TS1, at my swing speed, the TS1 and TS1 IM performed pretty much the same on better shots. TS1 IM is more forgiving and feels softer on a toe miss, but the TS1 is really solid. 

3) Depending on how sensitive you are to different shafts, the TT Score performs well. I would not typically get fit into a high launching shaft, but the TT Score’s weight is decent for me. When I wanted to, I was able to flight the ball down and turn it over left or right pretty easily with these shafts. Unsurprisingly, it was easiest to do this with the TS4. I lose some distance due to height when I hit one pure with the Scores—something like the Modus 120, Dynamic Gold 120, or the original Dynamic Gold S300 perform best for me—but if you want to save a lot of money on clubs, you could do worse than these shafts. 

I went a couple of weeks ago and am still undecided on which irons I will buy. The day of the fitting, I was highest on the TS3 and TE+—the CB feel inspired the most confidence and the TS3 with the DG S300s performed by far the best of anything I was hitting distance and dispersion wise. But they all performed so well and so similarly that the decision is difficult. Current options are a full set (5-GW, I play a 4 hybrid) of either TS3, TE+, or TS1 IM. I also am considering a combo set blending any of the 3 above with the TS4s for my 7-GW. Also trying to decide if I want to save money and get the Scores or shell out for the shaft upgrade. As I mentioned, I also have a set of the Kirkland irons. Those are no where near as forgiving as anything Maltby I hit, but the distance is great on solid shots and I may prefer the TT Elevate 115s to the Score shafts. 

Everyone on here seems so knowledgeable, so feel free to weigh in with thoughts if you think you can help me decide! Also happy to answer anyone’s questions on these since I am lucky enough to be close enough to go hit all of them.