Shaft Hack - The Otto Phlex Journey

[IndyBonzo]

2 hours ago, Iamsecond116 said:

What is the updated Accra model for the FX? Do you happen to know? Online it seems like they have moved on to new lines of shafts.

The new model is the GX.  The Club Champion guys did a nice testing video on it and liked it.  I also found several FX models for sale on eBay and other places if you look a bit and are patient.  
 

FWIW I think the M0 and M1 shafts feel similar enough that they can all be grooved in together.  The M1 is the lightest flex available in the FX hybrid shafts but I still like it.  

Edited June 20 by IndyBonzo

[IndyBonzo]

6 hours ago, Iamsecond116 said:

What is the updated Accra model for the FX? Do you happen to know? Online it seems like they have moved on to new lines 

Oops.  Double post. 

Edited June 21 by IndyBonzo

[slay4klay]

My Maltby MPF UL A-flex shaft finally arrived. Side note, it was my first time adding the adapter myself which was a fun little DIY project. Hoping I prepped everything correctly and I won't see my driver head flying off any time soon. I had been using the Grafalloy PLB but after reading more from you guys about the Maltby I knew I had to at least try it. I'd say the results were pretty good. Got to play my first round with it two days ago and I ended up hitting 5/10 fairways (and no lost tee shots OB) with three of those drives going 290+ (two of these being downhill, downwind). That is a really good driving day for me. I'm a 19 hcp and driving has always been the absolute weakest part of my game. Suffer from an over the top swing that leads to the dreaded two-way miss but on this day I had a nice tight fade going. A typical drive for me before trying the Otto Phlex shafts were 230-250 yards I'd say. I can't really pinpoint what exactly feels different between the two shafts but I was seeing slight improvements over my stock shaft when I was trying out the PLB. It's also only one round so I'm looking forward practicing and playing with it a bit more! BTW, I'm using a G430 Max 10.5 degree head, turned down to 9 degrees. Also added some lead tape to the front of the head. This helped me get to my preferred D2/3 swingweight and I also think it helps keep the flight of the ball down even though I know adding weight to the front of the head, and especially a Ping head, might take away from some of its forgiveness but so far it hasn't been too much of a sacrifice. 

Edited June 21 by slay4klay

[Iamsecond116]

54 minutes ago, slay4klay said:

My Maltby MPF UL A-flex shaft finally arrived. Side note, it was my first time adding the adapter myself which was a fun little DIY project. Hoping I prepped everything correctly and I won't see my driver head flying off any time soon. I had been using the Grafalloy PLB but after reading more from you guys about the Maltby I knew I had to at least try it. I'd say the results were pretty good. Got to play my first round with it two days ago and I ended up hitting 5/10 fairways (and no lost tee shots OB) with three of those drives going 290+ (two of these being downhill, downwind). That is a really good driving day for me. I'm a 19 hcp and driving has always been the absolute weakest part of my game. Suffer from an over the top swing that leads to the dreaded two-way miss but on this day I had a nice tight fade going. A typical drive for me before trying the Otto Phlex shafts were 230-250 yards I'd say. I can't really pinpoint what exactly feels different between the two shafts but I was seeing slight improvements over my stock shaft when I was trying out the PLB. It's also only one round so I'm looking forward practicing and playing with it a bit more! BTW, I'm using a G430 Max 10.5 degree head, turned down to 9 degrees. Also added some lead tape to the front of the head. This helped me get to my preferred D2/3 swingweight and I also think it helps keep the flight of the ball down even though I know adding weight to the front of the head, and especially a Ping head, might take away from some of its forgiveness but so far it hasn't been too much of a sacrifice. 

Did you pure the shaft when you ordered it? I am tempted to try this as well even with great results with the PLB.

[slay4klay]

20 minutes ago, Iamsecond116 said:

Did you pure the shaft when you ordered it? I am tempted to try this as well even with great results with the PLB.

I read up on the pureing but decided it was something I could live without. Would be curious to test one that is and one that isn't pured though just for fun.

[cksurfdude]

23 hours ago, Iamsecond116 said:

Did you pure the shaft when you ordered it? I am tempted to try this as well even with great results with the PLB.

 

22 hours ago, slay4klay said:

I read up on the pureing but decided it was something I could live without. Would be curious to test one that is and one that isn't pured though just for fun.

Just passing on something I've read previously.... If you do opt for Pure'ing specify to them the position that you intend to set the adapter to.

[IndyBonzo]

23 hours ago, slay4klay said:

I read up on the pureing but decided it was something I could live without. Would be curious to test one that is and one that isn't pured though just for fun.

 

My Xcaliber shaft came pured, and if I am not mistaken, Maltby/Golfworks are also pured before purchase.  
 

@slay4klay did you see a white and red line at the butt end of the Maltby shaft?

Edited June 22 by IndyBonzo

[chisag]

On 9/27/2022 at 9:35 PM, azstu324 said:

DISCLAIMER 1: I realize that this is a subject that might rub some folks the wrong way.. namely those who've spent the $ and are completely bought into the Autoflex concept.. or those who've done the research, had a fitting, and are about to pull the trigger on one. I think that this topic fully encompasses the MGS spirit of debunking a pretty hyped up marketing claim and/or discussing alternatives that take all of the marketing hype out of the equation and stick to the hard facts. Does the concept actually work? Can I make an Otto Phlex shaft that performs similarly or better than the real thing while nixing the insane price tag by following the guidelines listed above? 

 

... I have not read this entire thread so forgive me if I am repeating anything. After playing, MGS testing/reviewing and being blown away by the performance, the autoFlex is definitely not hype. I tried an "Otto Phlex" shaft and it didn't work for me. At least consistently. 

... A shaft is simply a timing device and if you time any shaft correctly it will produce good results. Just consider the polar opposites of autoFlex and Nunchuk. The Nunchuk is based on a shaft that doesn't flex so it takes timing out of the equation and at impact instead of flexing into the ball, the Nunchuk is in a straight line producing in theory, excellent dispersion. Counter balanced but still very heavy at 104 gms I think you can see compared to my autoFlex at 47 gms is twice as light and infinitely more flexible. They both work great for their intended player and my son, a strong ex college DE at 6'3" that still works out can go at his Nunchuk as hard and fast as he wants.

... The Nunchuk didn't work for my smooth swing and after some initial success it just took too much effort to get the results I wanted. So I passed it on to my sion and now he wont even look at another shaft because it fits him so well. I imagine one could do a "Some Chuk" and just play the heaviest and stiffest shaft available for a fraction of the cost and find success. 

... Which brings me back to the Otto Phlex. My issue was dispersion and the occasional flex too much resulting in a high spinny drive. Now to be fair I have always played the softest flex I can control so even though at 95mph most recommendations for me were a stiff flex shaft, I always played better with a regular flex so dropping to a lighter weight L flex shaft was not a huge difference like dropping from an X flex to an A flex. But here is the thing about the AF with KHT, the faster I swing it the tighter it gets through impact. So I found the exact opposite of my OP experiment and the dispersion is better than any shaft I have played. I have also gained 10yds or more but my OP also produced some very long drives, just not anywhere near as consistent as my AF. 

... I am not posting to promote the AF because $880 requires disposable income and in the MGS Testing thread several testers had poor results with their AF Dream 7. I couldn't imagine dropping $880 on a shaft and having it perform worse than what I was playing.  I am simply posting that the AF is not hype and the real deal for me and several other MGS testers. Previously I would never have even considered an $880 shaft and right around $250 was my limit. As a shaft Ho I have tried sooooooo many shafts and the autoFlex has cured me of Ho'ing, at least in my driver. That said, I absolutely LOVE golf forum "hacks" and if someone can find improved performance with an Otto Phlex for 1/10th the price or even less, it is beyond cool and well worth the experiment. Just don't call the autoFlex hype because by definition "promote or publicize (a product or idea) intensively, often exaggerating its importance or benefits" because there is no exaggeration in their claims for those that fit the parameters and reap the benefits. 

[GolfSpy SAM]

Got the Maltby Pro Series UL driver shaft yesterday, and threw on the All-Fit adapter so I can put both the PXG Gen 5 XF and the newly acquired Cally Ai Smoke Max head-to-head. Really excited to give these two a swing on the new shaft. 

Thinking I might try to sneak out tomorrow morning early to hit a bucket before I have to work. Gotta take advantage of the early sunrise while I can

[slay4klay]

3 hours ago, IndyBonzo said:

My Xcaliber shaft came pured, and if I am not mistaken, Maltby/Golfworks are also pured before purchase.  
 

@slay4klay did you see a white and red line at the butt end of the Maltby shaft?

I wasn't even thinking about that so I am not sure if it had the line or not. I know on the shaft's page it says pureing is an additional $25 so maybe they don't include it with every shaft?

[GolfSpy SAM]

13 hours ago, IndyBonzo said:

My Xcaliber shaft came pured, and if I am not mistaken, Maltby/Golfworks are also pured before purchase.  
 

@slay4klay did you see a white and red line at the butt end of the Maltby shaft?

I have the UL and I definitely see a red line and a white line - what do those mean? The red line is exactly on line with the "MPF" logo, the white line is slightly (1/4 of the way around) to the left. Does this indicate it's been pured? If so, which color would be the "pure" line? (And what happens when I invariably set the shaft to a different setting than "neutral", lol?)

[IndyBonzo]

4 hours ago, GolfSpy SAM said:

I have the UL and I definitely see a red line and a white line - what do those mean? The red line is exactly on line with the "MPF" logo, the white line is slightly (1/4 of the way around) to the left. Does this indicate it's been pured? If so, which color would be the "pure" line? (And what happens when I invariably set the shaft to a different setting than "neutral", lol?)

I confirmed on the Golfworks site. The Maltby shafts are frequency tested to find the spine. For a righty, hold the shaft in your hands and align one line with your hands (on top of the shaft or in line with the clubface top line) and the other line with clubface direction, and you have the spine.  Turn the shaft 180° if you want the logo down and you have still aligned the spine.

You are absolutely correct though about losing spine alignment if you change the adapter settings.   We needed that in our swing thoughts didn’t we?

Edited June 23 by IndyBonzo

[GolfSpy SAM]

5 hours ago, IndyBonzo said:

I confirmed on the Golfworks site. The Maltby shafts are frequency tested to find the spine. For a righty, hold the shaft in your hands and align one line with your hands (on top of the shaft or in line with the clubface top line) and the other line with clubface direction, and you have the spine.  Turn the shaft 180° if you want the logo down and you have still aligned the spine.

You are absolutely correct though about losing spine alignment if you change the adapter settings.   We needed that in our swing thoughts didn’t we?

Actually seem to have dumb-lucked into the correct spot, then, lol.  The red line was bang on the MPF logo, so I used that as my "neutral" setting - the white line is 45-degrees to the left, so the spine is (in theory, in neutral) pointing the same direction as the face.  

I tend to play drivers in neutral setting, anyway, but it's good to know should I move anything slightly.  Thanks!

[chisag]

6 hours ago, IndyBonzo said:

I confirmed on the Golfworks site. The Maltby shafts are frequency tested to find the spine. For a righty, hold the shaft in your hands and align one line with your hands (on top of the shaft or in line with the clubface top line) and the other line with clubface direction, and you have the spine.  Turn the shaft 180° if you want the logo down and you have still aligned the spine.

You are absolutely correct though about losing spine alignment if you change the adapter settings.   We needed that in our swing thoughts didn’t we?

 

... Some will disagree but talking to several shaft OEM engineer's at the show, they stopped flo'ing and spine aligning shafts because quality control is so good these days they don't find it beneficial. I was skeptical coming from very bowed shafts in the past, although most were steel. The VP of engineering at Aldila that deigned the original green NV shaft started out finding the spine on all their shafts but stopped and explained "Out lowest price shafts have a straight line before Flo'ing or spine aligning and it doesn't change after floing/spine'ing".

... He went on to explain we only swing the shaft at the ball once so starting to wobble when flo'ed has zero effect on that one swing. It can make cheaper shafts perform similar if they needed to be replaced but how often does that happen? But he stood behind virtually every premium shaft they make will be almost identical in performance and 99% off those that play one can replace it in another club and have the same performance without Flo or spine. The added cost to find the spine and would be passed on to the consumer was a waste of time and money in his opinion. 

... I had flo'ed and spine'ed every shaft I played up until then and admittedly finding the spine was very difficult at times with quality driver shafts or graphite iron shafts so I haven't done either since. Ymmv and if finding Flo and Spine seem like it's worth the effort for you, go for it! 

[funkyjudge]

1 hour ago, chisag said:

 

... Some will disagree but talking to several shaft OEM engineer's at the show, they stopped flo'ing and spine aligning shafts because quality control is so good these days they don't find it beneficial. I was skeptical coming from very bowed shafts in the past, although most were steel. The VP of engineering at Aldila that deigned the original green NV shaft started out finding the spine on all their shafts but stopped and explained "Out lowest price shafts have a straight line before Flo'ing or spine aligning and it doesn't change after floing/spine'ing".

... He went on to explain we only swing the shaft at the ball once so starting to wobble when flo'ed has zero effect on that one swing. It can make cheaper shafts perform similar if they needed to be replaced but how often does that happen? But he stood behind virtually every premium shaft they make will be almost identical in performance and 99% off those that play one can replace it in another club and have the same performance without Flo or spine. The added cost to find the spine and would be passed on to the consumer was a waste of time and money in his opinion. 

... I had flo'ed and spine'ed every shaft I played up until then and admittedly finding the spine was very difficult at times with quality driver shafts or graphite iron shafts so I haven't done either since. Ymmv and if finding Flo and Spine seem like it's worth the effort for you, go for it! 

John Oldenburg was correct, and I agree with him 100%.  I have been laser- FLOing and spine- aligning shafts for more than 20 years, and I have not found a noticeable spine or any significant “wobble” when FLOing graphite composite shafts in many years.

[chisag]

14 minutes ago, funkyjudge said:

John Oldenburg was correct, and I agree with him 100%.  I have been laser- FLOing and spine- aligning shafts for more than 20 years, and I have not found a noticeable spine or any significant “wobble” when FLOing graphite composite shafts in many years.

 

... John sent me every new shaft he designed to play and review. He came to Chicago once and I treated him to a round at Mistwood GC. Best money I ever spent and listening to him for a little over 4 hours was a personal master class in shaft design. Plus he is just an awesome dude that enjoys golf and fun to play with.  

[IndyBonzo]

I really don’t have an opinion on this timeless debate, other than to say that if the shaft manufacturer went to the trouble to identify a spine, there seems to be no harm in building the club to utilize it.  But I don’t pay extra to have graphite shafts pured or floe’d or whatever anymore.  

[chisag]

4 minutes ago, IndyBonzo said:

I really don’t have an opinion on this timeless debate, other than to say that if the shaft manufacturer went to the trouble to identify a spine, there seems to be no harm in building the club to utilize it.

 

... Even then you have several different camps in favor of aligning the spine toward the target, away from the target or in the 12 o'clock position.   

[IndyBonzo]

3 minutes ago, chisag said:

 

... Even then you have several different camps in favor of aligning the spine toward the target, away from the target or in the 12 o'clock position.   

Oh man.  Lol.

 

[DSpumoni]

Would an A-Flex Tensei CK Blue 50g be a good trial option coming from an S-Flex Tensei White AV Raw 65g? Going in a cobra speezone tuned to 10.5°

[cksurfdude]

20 hours ago, chisag said:

 

... Some will disagree but talking to several shaft OEM engineer's at the show, they stopped flo'ing and spine aligning shafts because quality control is so good these days they don't find it beneficial.

.....

 

18 hours ago, funkyjudge said:

John Oldenburg was correct, and I agree with him 100%.  I have been laser- FLOing and spine- aligning shafts for more than 20 years, and I have not found a noticeable spine or any significant “wobble” when FLOing graphite composite shafts in many years.

 

Good info guys, thx for that - and wish I'd read it several years ago...

.. before ordering a set of irons from Club Champion. The fitter.. seemed to me at the time.. truly concerned with getting "the best" setup for me, and so convinced me that adding on Pure'ing to the build would benefit me...

Was sceptical but agreed with the upsell / add-on

[MuniGolfer]

On 6/19/2024 at 7:56 PM, Nick_D said:

Went out in the garage simulator and dealt with the heat to get some driver numbers comparing the Maltby and my previously fit driver shaft. I hit a bunch of balls and kept the data for 5 balls for each shaft that I felt were a good representation of mostly good shots with my normal misses included as well. This first set of data is my previous gamer: Aldila Ascent Red 60 S flex.

Next is the Maltby MPF Pro Series UL L flex shaft. It is the same playing length as my old gamer and the swingweights were both right at D2. You can see club speed jumped about 3 mph and ball speed jumped about 5 mph resulting in about 10 yards extra carry distance. The offline dispersion is also something to note with the Maltby being A LOT more consistent. There are only 5 shots each shown here that I felt were a good comparison and I will tell you I hit way more balls with the Aldila to get here.

Overall, I've seen some decent gains switching to Otto Phlex. If you look at my club path numbers its obvious I need to do some work on my swing and that could also bring some gains from the Aldila. However, considering how out to in my club path is I have to say it is unreal how well I can drive the golf ball with the Maltby. Numbers aside, it really just helps me hit the ball more consistently.

The next question is how can I do the same thing with the rest of my clubs  anyone find success with Otto Phlex irons?

Those dispersion gains

[MuniGolfer]

On 6/22/2024 at 12:01 PM, chisag said:

 

... I have not read this entire thread so forgive me if I am repeating anything. After playing, MGS testing/reviewing and being blown away by the performance, the autoFlex is definitely not hype. I tried an "Otto Phlex" shaft and it didn't work for me. At least consistently. 

... A shaft is simply a timing device and if you time any shaft correctly it will produce good results. Just consider the polar opposites of autoFlex and Nunchuk. The Nunchuk is based on a shaft that doesn't flex so it takes timing out of the equation and at impact instead of flexing into the ball, the Nunchuk is in a straight line producing in theory, excellent dispersion. Counter balanced but still very heavy at 104 gms I think you can see compared to my autoFlex at 47 gms is twice as light and infinitely more flexible. They both work great for their intended player and my son, a strong ex college DE at 6'3" that still works out can go at his Nunchuk as hard and fast as he wants.

... The Nunchuk didn't work for my smooth swing and after some initial success it just took too much effort to get the results I wanted. So I passed it on to my sion and now he wont even look at another shaft because it fits him so well. I imagine one could do a "Some Chuk" and just play the heaviest and stiffest shaft available for a fraction of the cost and find success. 

... Which brings me back to the Otto Phlex. My issue was dispersion and the occasional flex too much resulting in a high spinny drive. Now to be fair I have always played the softest flex I can control so even though at 95mph most recommendations for me were a stiff flex shaft, I always played better with a regular flex so dropping to a lighter weight L flex shaft was not a huge difference like dropping from an X flex to an A flex. But here is the thing about the AF with KHT, the faster I swing it the tighter it gets through impact. So I found the exact opposite of my OP experiment and the dispersion is better than any shaft I have played. I have also gained 10yds or more but my OP also produced some very long drives, just not anywhere near as consistent as my AF. 

... I am not posting to promote the AF because $880 requires disposable income and in the MGS Testing thread several testers had poor results with their AF Dream 7. I couldn't imagine dropping $880 on a shaft and having it perform worse than what I was playing.  I am simply posting that the AF is not hype and the real deal for me and several other MGS testers. Previously I would never have even considered an $880 shaft and right around $250 was my limit. As a shaft Ho I have tried sooooooo many shafts and the autoFlex has cured me of Ho'ing, at least in my driver. That said, I absolutely LOVE golf forum "hacks" and if someone can find improved performance with an Otto Phlex for 1/10th the price or even less, it is beyond cool and well worth the experiment. Just don't call the autoFlex hype because by definition "promote or publicize (a product or idea) intensively, often exaggerating its importance or benefits" because there is no exaggeration in their claims for those that fit the parameters and reap the benefits. 

I don’t think I ever would have said it was hype, just trying to find similar performance for less than $800. I don’t think we would be here if the autoflex was just hype. 

[azstu324]

10 minutes ago, MuniGolfer said:

I don’t think I ever would have said it was hype, just trying to find similar performance for less than $800. I don’t think we would be here if the autoflex was just hype. 

I agree 100%. The whole purpose of this thread wasn't to disprove the performance claims of the Autoflex but to disprove that you need to fork out $800 for that performance. Was it also partially to call to task those performance claims? Absolutely! I believe that we've done a pretty great job mainly of A) proving that the theory of the Autoflex profile can work well for many players, and B) it can be done much less expensively without having to have "Autoflex" printed down the side. Clearly there isn't 1 specific answer to this question. We've had guys who've played the actual Autoflex and found better success with one of our many $50 variants. And like @chisag stated, the actual Autoflex worked better for him. There are guys that have had great success with mid-priced shafts where the $50 PLB wasn't quite the answer. Either way, I accredit Autoflex for being bold enough to present an idea that is pretty far outside of the conventional box that we can all easily get stuck in. 

[chisag]

31 minutes ago, azstu324 said:

I agree 100%. The whole purpose of this thread wasn't to disprove the performance claims of the Autoflex but to disprove that you need to fork out $800 for that performance. Was it also partially to call to task those performance claims? Absolutely! I believe that we've done a pretty great job mainly of A) proving that the theory of the Autoflex profile can work well for many players, and B) it can be done much less expensively without having to have "Autoflex" printed down the side. Clearly there isn't 1 specific answer to this question. We've had guys who've played the actual Autoflex and found better success with one of our many $50 variants. And like @chisag stated, the actual Autoflex worked better for him. There are guys that have had great success with mid-priced shafts where the $50 PLB wasn't quite the answer. Either way, I accredit Autoflex for being bold enough to present an idea that is pretty far outside of the conventional box that we can all easily get stuck in. 

 

... To be clear, I am all for experimenting with equipment and trying to find a way to get performance that works for any golfer at a fraction of the price the bona fide premium equipment does. For many that play, getting 80% of the same performance for 10% of the cost is a bargain many (most?) are willing to make.  

... But I think it is a little like comparing a $31,000 Subaru BRZ with a few aftermarket additions to a $340,000 Ferrari. I mean you can only go the speed limit right? Not many can afford a Ferrari so spending 1/10th the cost for amazing performance is pretty cool. But a Subaru ain't a Ferrari. Is the Ferrari worth $319,000 more? Sure, if you can afford it. But for most they can't, so it won't be. Not even close. 

... The autoFlex is such a unique product and in my opinion nothing at all like an inexpensive alternative. I could not compare my Otto phlex with my autoFlex because they are so different. The waggle is soooooo loose and more than my OP, but it tightens up through impact like a David Copperfield magic trick. The faster I swing the more it tightens up. As an admitted shaft Ho I have hit and owned most every shaft out there. So can someone get similar spin, trajectory, and distance from a $50-75 shaft? Most likely not but they might be able to come pretty darned close. Depending on your level of play and how consistent your swing, coming pretty darned close will most likely be the best option or even the only option. 

... I do think the autoFlex Dream 7 is a niche product and judging by the different opinions from the official MGS testers, it would be a very rare individual that I would recommend they actually buy a Dream 7 for $880. But I would recommend to any and everyone to give the otto phlex a try. If it doesn't work out they are only losing the cost of one round of golf or less. And they just may find lightening in a bottle for an amazingly low price with operators standing by waiting, so call now!    

[Hook DeLoft]

On 6/19/2024 at 8:56 PM, Nick_D said:

 

The next question is how can I do the same thing with the rest of my clubs  anyone find success with Otto Phlex irons?

I play with a guy who has the Autoflex shafts in his irons.  He swings his driver around 103 or so.  He hits the ball well with a big, high draw on nearly every shot.  I seriously doubt he can fade the ball, but he had that shape before going to Autoflex.  I'll try to remember to ask him which Autoflex iron shafts he is using the next time I see him.

[GolfSpy SAM]

Okay, Swing Weight nerds: help! Just weighed and measured my new Ai Smoke Max (weight set to draw, but I don't think that matters?), 313g, 45.5 playing length, balancer point 32.5" down the shaft. According to two different calculators, I get C4.1/2. 

This seems VERY light to me. I've literally not swung it yet, so I can't comment on anything other than this. I'm taking it out tomorrow morning as-is, but wanted to check the hive mind

Thoughts? How would I add weight? Lead tape? Heavier grip? Spit?

 

[azstu324]

1 hour ago, GolfSpy SAM said:

Okay, Swing Weight nerds: help! Just weighed and measured my new Ai Smoke Max (weight set to draw, but I don't think that matters?), 313g, 45.5 playing length, balancer point 32.5" down the shaft. According to two different calculators, I get C4.1/2. 

This seems VERY light to me. I've literally not swung it yet, so I can't comment on anything other than this. I'm taking it out tomorrow morning as-is, but wanted to check the hive mind

Thoughts? How would I add weight? Lead tape? Heavier grip? Spit?

 

Yeah man that's pretty light. Generally speaking you need to either add about 12g to the head or reduce the grip end by about 24g just to get to D0. OR.. divide the adjustments between both ends by adding 6g to the head and finding a grip that's 12g lighter than what you're using. 

These are general estimates so you might need to fine-tune a little more but it'll get you close. 

[IndyBonzo]

Agree with @azstu324.

Once you dial it in, you can - if you like - buy a Cally weight kit (Amazon or otherwise) and put heavier weights in the head.   But nothing wrong with just using lead tape.  

Edited Friday at 09:21 PM by IndyBonzo

[chisag]

1 hour ago, IndyBonzo said:

Agree with @azstu324.

Once you dial it in, you can - if you like - buy a Cally weight kit (Amazon or otherwise) and put heavier weights in the head.   But nothing wrong with just using less tape.  

 

... The thing I love about lead tape in a situation with a seriously low swing weight, is you can add strips at the range and instantly feel how it works for your swing. Considering C8 is the starting point for most Ladies drivers, C4.5 is very light. But like always these are just starting points and I have seen many golfers surprised at a driver swing weight that worked well for them but very different from their irons or even fairway woods. Hitting several drives with a strip of lead tape should yield "Oh yea, that's better" and kinda like an eye exam you just add more and answer the question "better or worse"? Once it feels worse, you just remove the last strip and you have a driver that feels and performs well for your swing. I have always felt the driver is a unique club all its own because it is the only club you are trying to hit a max distance. In the end whether that is D4, C8 or somewhere in-between is irrelevant if you hit it well. 

 

Edited Friday at 10:39 PM by chisag