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Extraction of broken shaft


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I was given this driver head, but as you can see there's some of the shaft left in the hossel.

Any thoughts on an easy to remove it after heating?

IMG_20190410_135035298.jpg

Far and Sure......

:ping-small:G410 SFT (10.5 degree), Project X Hzrdus Yellow Stiff Shaft

 :ping-small:: G20 4W

:ping-small:: G410 5W

:ping-small::  G20    5H

:ping-small:: G410 5 thru UW

 :callaway-logo-1:   MD3 54*  

  :wilson_staff_small: PMP FG Tour 60*                                                        

:odyssey-small:    OWorks Black #1

:bridgestone-small: TourB RXS / e12 soft

:skycaddie: Touch

 Bat Caddy X3 Electric Bag Cart

 

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I would not drill that out. Drills have a way of going sideways into the hosel and tearing the edges up. You just need to find an easy out or golf shaft extractor right around the size of the shaft little smaller. Lots of well placed heat, do not use propane it will burn the top of you club head. Use Butane, up and down about 15-20 seconds in each spot, then try the easy out. This can take some time, I've seen these devils set in there for 30 minutes of work. Best take it to a pro shop it worth the 20 bucks, buy a shaft they may do it for free.

Golfwork for the extractor SKU: 35P5 

 

Good Luck

10Shot

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I have used a drill bit before. Not a .335 one though. I used a 1/4" drill bit after putting some heat to it. With the right amount of heat and the smaller drill bit, it will come out whole without having to get close to the sides of the hosel.

Sent from my Moto Z3 Play using MyGolfSpy mobile app

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What is in my Bag Boy Revolver

Driver:    PXG Gen2 0811x 10.5* set to small + with a VA Composites Nemesys 55s @ 44.75"

Fairway:  :srixon-small: F85 5 wood with a UST Elements Chrome 7F5 @ 41.5"

Irons: Testing the Titleist T200 irons 4-W2 with Project X LZ 5.5 shaft -1/2" and 1* Up

Wedge: Titleist SM7 56* with Project X LZ 5.0 shaft

Putter:  :scotty-cameron-1: Custom Futura X5 flow neck with a UST Frequency Filtered shaft -1" with a SS wristlock grip

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Haven't been in that position, but the first thing I'd try is putting in a screw a little bigger than the inside diameter.  Hit it with the head gun and try to pull it out with some pliers.

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Driver: :callaway-logo-1: Epic SZ w/ VA Composites Raijin 65 04

3w: :taylormade-small:'16 M2 hl w/ Diamana D+ 82

5w: :cleveland-small: Launcher HB w/ HZRDUS Yellow

Hybrid: :cleveland-small: 22 deg. Launcher HB w/ HZRDUS Black

Irons: :ping-small: 5i-UW G700 w/ X100 soft stepped once

Wedges: :cleveland-small: 54 & 58 CBX w/ Nippon Modus 3 125

Putter: :odyssey-small: Red 7s

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I just finishing videoing this very topic. If you give me a day or two I can show you how.

Heat and drill

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Driver - 44.5" 5.0 flex 10.5 deg ACCRA tour Z GP MCC4+ 1 deg closed

Irons - 5-pw, GW stnd length 5.0 flex same grip 1 deg flat. Type low medium offset cavity back, no diggers

Wedges - 56 and 60 tour grind wedge spinner and mcc4+ grip 2 flat 10 and 8 in bounce

Putter - 33" 3 deg loft 70 lie, lrg slight line slightly toe hang

Ball - truvis

Carried in a Sun Mountain C-130 USA bag - BE PROUD.

HC - LH but 85 is a good number, playing in Ohio.

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Driver - 44.5" 5.0 flex 10.5 deg ACCRA tour Z GP MCC4+ 1 deg closed

Irons - 5-pw, GW stnd length 5.0 flex same grip 1 deg flat. Type low medium offset cavity back, no diggers

Wedges - 56 and 60 tour grind wedge spinner and mcc4+ grip 2 flat 10 and 8 in bounce

Putter - 33" 3 deg loft 70 lie, lrg slight line slightly toe hang

Ball - truvis

Carried in a Sun Mountain C-130 USA bag - BE PROUD.

HC - LH but 85 is a good number, playing in Ohio.

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On 4/10/2019 at 9:26 PM, hckymeyer said:

Haven't been in that position, but the first thing I'd try is putting in a screw a little bigger than the inside diameter.  Hit it with the head gun and try to pull it out with some pliers.

Basically this.  Make yourself a nice pilot hole, carefully screw in appropriately sized lag bolt, heat and pull.

 

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  • 5 months later...

With current woods that have composite parts, I try to avoid applying any heat if possible. Step drilling graphite shafts is quite easy. I find low speed and light pressure work the best to keep from going to deep into the head. Never had a problem with the drill getting mis-aligned unless there's a steel tip weight installed. Fortunately, most tip weights are lead or brass which are much softer than the hosel material making walking less likely. I typically either use a drill stop set at 1.25" to ensure that I'm not going to deep to begin with. Once I have the hosel clear to that depth, I can start easing a little deeper until I reach the actual bottom of the hosel.

Lastly, those with adjustable drivers who snap the shaft and want to drill out the adapter... Good luck! Adapters typically have VERY LITTLE room for error at the base of the hosel. It REALLY easy to go through to the threads at which point the adapter is compromised. It's best to just purchase a new adapter and save yourself the trouble.

BT

Sent from my XT1585 using MyGolfSpy mobile app

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  • 2 weeks later...

Just ran across this ...............my experience is to heat the head (using butane), gently tap an easy out in and then remove the broken shaft.

Maybe I have been lucky but I've never had a problem with the 25 or so of the ones that I have done.

Driver: Ping G400 10.5* - stock Alta CB shaft

FW:  Ping G25 7W - Accra RT50 DYMATCH 2.0

Hybrid: Callaway Rogue X 23* - Accra 162H M2

Irons: Callaway Big Bertha 5 - PW - Steelfiber i95

Wedges: Muira 56* K - Steelfiber i110

                Satori 52* - KB Tour

Putter: Ping Ketsch Cadence

Ball: Snell MTB-X

 

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