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Is an aftermarket shaft worth it?


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21 minutes ago, Hoganman1 said:

I've wondered about this issue. It seems like a lot of the "stock" shafts are also "made for" shafts. The Taylor made M6 which is now selling for $350 has a Fuji Atmos Orange shaft. However, the Fuji web site doesn't offer an Atmos Orange and the Atmos Red (or Blue) after market shafts cost about $250. I know a lot of OEMs do offer a variety of name brand shafts, but are they the same quality as the after market version?

Depends on the shaft and brand. Shaft companies need to sell product and the club companies need shafts to put in clubs.

The made for titileist amt white, black and red were same quality as the original amt shafts from true temper.

When it comes to graphite there’s a lot that shaft companies can do. The majority of the made for use lower cost materials but still quality. They are mass produced but they have a design that is setup to work for the club they are going in with the goal to fit the masses. So they tend to play softer in torque and higher launching and higher spin. 
 

There are some made for that aren’t different from the aftermarket other than how/where they are made. PX used the non handcrafted hzrdus shafts for many of the brands so while not the same price as the aftermarket handcrafted one its the same specs.  The even flow blue, black and white have been the same but that’s because the don’t have a handcrafted version.

Ping works with UST in the design of the tour shaft they offer. It’s based off the ust elements shaft but tweaked to meet the design requirement that ping cane up with. You get the same quality as the ust elements shaft.

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Driver: Titleist 917D3 9.5 with Graphite Design MAD Pro 65g S

Wood: Titleist 917F2 with UST Mamiya Helium 5F4

Hybrid: Titleist 816H1 21 with Atmos Blue 85 S

Irons: Titleist 718 AP3 4i, 718 CB 5-6, MB 7-9 with KBS $ Taper 125

Wedges: Vokey SM7 46/50/54/60 with DG s200

Putter: Scotty Caemeron Super Rat1

Ball: Titleist Prov1

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Let's re-arrange these questions in the order you should be asking them. Should I get fit for a driver? Is the $100-$150 worth it?  In my opinion, absolutely yes.  From the sound of things you've

... As a life long shaft-a-holic there really is no standard answer to this question. For myself, once I found the type off shaft that gives me the best numbers, there is not much difference between s

if you don't want aftermarket, you should at least get fit for the stock shafts.   You should be able to find something withing their offering that works the best for your swing.   Most manufacturers

See my post in “2020 Drivers” about my Honma fitting yesterday. They sure CAN make a big difference!


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Driver: :honma: TR20 460, :Fuji: Ventus Black 70X

Fwy: :titelist-small: TS3, 15*, Veylix Rome 888 X

Hybrid: :callaway-small: X2 Hot Pro, 20*, :Fuji: Rombax 8D07HB TM27 X

Irons: :honma:TR20 Tour P 4/5, Tour V 6-10, Dynamic Gold X100

Wedges: Vega VW-06 50*/54*/58*, Dynamic Gold S400

Putter: :seemore-small: Platinum M5 HT Mallet, 36"

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... As a life long shaft-a-holic there really is no standard answer to this question. For myself, once I found the type off shaft that gives me the best numbers, there is not much difference between similar style shafts. Here is a perfect example. I played the Rogue Black 95 and Aldila sent me the Rogue Black 110 Tour shaft to review. I liked it better in every way. It was so much smoother and felt just a hair tighter. It was a no brainer to install and play the Tour 110 version. But the truth is was there a quantifiable difference in performance? Again , the easy answer is yes, confidence alone was enough to have a performance difference. But the big question is how much of a difference? 3-5%? How does a 3-5% perceived performance difference effect my scores? Considering the RB 95 sold for $199 and the RB 110 sold for $799 I think I can safely say 3-5% is definitely not worth 4 times the price. 

... This is an example for me a 100mph and some days maybe a little less with a repeatable swing. Take someone without a repeatable swing at a more average golfer swing speed of 85-95 and they would most likely find zero difference between the 95 and 110. However someone like a Tour Pro or Pmookie that carries the ball 290+ and the dispersion and distance may certainly be enough to justify the difference. So given 2 shafts of very similar characteristics but higher quality materials and manufacturing and the results can be very different for each player. This isn't even considering those that do not know exactly what kind of weight, kick point, torque, tip stiffness and feel work best for their swing. When the original Ping Eye 2's were released Karsten Solheim, an engineer more than a golfer, believed most golfers cast the club from the top and did not have a late release so any stored energy in the shaft was already released long before impact. Basically a pre cursor to the Nunchuk shaft, Karsten offered only one shaft, and that was X Flex shafts in his Eye 2's, even women's Eye 2's because it took the shaft release out of the equation. It can be very confusing. 

... So you may find a "Made For" shaft performs better than the aftermarket version. Or the aftermarket shaft performs better. Or there is very little if any difference at all between them. I think you can see why getting fit is an absolute must if you are serious about maximizing your shaft performance and finding what works best for your individual swing. 

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Driver:   Cobra Speedzone Xtreme 9* ... Tensei Orange 60s
Fw wood: Cobra Speedzone 14.5* ... Atmos TS Blue 7s
Utility:   Callaway Super Hybrid 17*   ... Tensei Pro Orange 80 hy s-flex
Irons:    4-Gw Titleist T100-S ... Steelfiber 95 r-flex
Wedges:  SM6 52* F Grind ... Steelfiber 95 r-flex
                 SM7D & SM8M 58* ... Steelfiber 110 s-flex 4 iron shaft
Putter:  Newport 2.5 at 33.5"
Ball:  TaylorMade TP5

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Quantifying better is a hard thing to do especially since each person has their own criteria for better and as we have established how much they are willing to pay for the “better”

I like to learn and I have tried to learn about shafts and profiles. There are multiple shafts with similar profiles; some stock, some inexpensive aftermarket and some exotic aftermarket. For me I started with my stock g400 max Alta shaft and was curious if I could find something better. I want to a variety of manufacturer and shaft company sites and went through their fitting tools. I like to be knowledgeable, as it puts me in the best position to make decisions. Identified Shafts ranged from $50 to $500 so To continue and experiment I selected on of the less expensive shafts, found a used one and gave it a go. Felt different and while it may not have been longer it appeared to be more consistent. Test it it on the MGS launch monitor and compared against some other shaft they had laying around. One of the things we noticed was inconsistent face contact so the recommendation we came up with was a shorter shaft. Tried a couple one and contact was
I then cut my shaft down 1.5” and found more consistent distance and better dispersion. Could I have gotten this same improvement with the stock shaft by cutting it down? Quite possibly.

Do I feel like I am maxed out? No. I think I still have distance on the table. Would that mean I need a different head? Maybe, I see the varying results from my testing the 39 drivers; some are better some are worse.
Or would a different shaft profile work better? Testing those drivers also shows me that some shafts work better than others. Stock shaft are selected to appeal to the masses and get a good workable fit, by putting a different shaft in a club you can do even more fine tuning.

In summary I think aftermarket shafts can be worth it. But just like anything else in the golf work you need to find the one that works for you. Shaft X may be a popular, well reviewed, expensive shaft but that doesn’t mean it is the right shaft for you.

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Driver:  :ping-small: G400 Max 9* with UST Proforce V2
Fairway: :titelist-small: TS3 15* set  to 16.5* w/Project X Hzardous Smoke
Hybrids:  :titelist-small: 816H1 19* set at 18* w/KBS Tour Graphite Hybrid Prototype
                :titelist-small: 915H  21*  w/KBS Tour Graphite Hybrid Prototype
               :titelist-small: 915H 24*  w/KBS Tour Graphite Hybrid Prototype
Irons:      :srixon-small: 765 6-AW with KBS Tour shafts
Wedge:  :cleveland-small: 588 54-14, 58-12
Putter:  :odyssey-small: Ten S      Backups:  :bobby-grace-1: 6330,   :EVNROLL: ER2.2,  

 

Member:  MGS Hitsquad since 2017697979773_DSCN2368(Custom).JPG.a1a25f5e430d9eebae93c5d652cbd4b9.JPG

 

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On 1/30/2020 at 11:03 AM, Middler said:

Except I just moved to this area, and don't know anyone who's been to this Club Champion. Maybe it's just me, but I think asking around is much easier said than done for many players - and that's why fittings can be a coin toss. I agree WRT a free fitting, but I don't think I should have to "ask around" for a paid fitting, but probably naive.

It's tough when you have just moved to a new place, no doubt.  I like to think about it like finding a contractor.  Ideally, I want references.  I've written about it several times here, but when I was basically forced to go to Golf Galaxy for a fitting for my Cobra F8s in the Cobra Connect Challenge II, my initial experience was so bad that I went back the next day and demanded a new fitting from another fitter.

NC is a big state, but if you're near one of the major metro areas, I'm sure there's someone here that can make a recommendation.  We could probably all do each other a favor and start reviewing our local fitters.

And to take this back (somewhat to the OP's question), I was fit into the best of the no-cost options for the F8 driver, and the differences between the shafts were noticeable.  Would I have done better with a more exotic shaft?  Who knows - they were not an option for us.  But it was worth paying for a fitting to get the best no-cost shaft for me.

 

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What's in the bag:
Driver - :cobra-small: F8 - Aldila NV Blue 60 ( S )
3 Wood (16*) - :cobra-small: F8 - Aldila NV Blue 60 ( S )
2 Iron - :mizuno-small: FliHi (18*) - Recoil 760 ( S )
4i - GW - :wilson_staff_small: D7 Forged - Recoil 760 ( S )
SW - LW - :cobra-small: F8 - N.S. Pro Modus3 Tour105 ( S )
Putter - :ping-small: Craz-e
Bag - :1590477705_SunMountain: 2.5 (Black)
Ball -  :srixon-small: Z-Star XV
Instagram - @hardcorelooper
Twitter - @meovino
Facebook - mike.eovino
 

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I’m down for paying more for a shaft if it truly performs better for me. I already waste a lot of money on clubs, like putters, that just sit in a bag for looking at.

Follow my golf journey to break into the 80s

Spring 2020 MGS Tester for the Fujikura Motore X Shaft

Updated 10/6/2020
Driver:taylormade-small:SIM Max 10.5 - Fujikura Ventus Red 5S Velocore (the real one)
Hybrids:taylormade-small: SIM Max 3H, 4H - Matrix Ozik 85S
Irons:callaway-small:Mavrik Max 5 - AW - Nippon Neo 950GH S
Wedges: :cleveland-small: CBX 2 54, CBX Full Face 58 - Nippon Modus 105 Wedge flex
Putter:  LAB Golf Directed Force 2.1

Current Putter Collection: LAB Golf DIrected Force 1, :cleveland-small: HB Soft Premier #11, :cameron-small: La Costa 1st 500, :scotty-small: Squareback 1 (2008)
 

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Others have touched on mostly everything I would say.  What I will agree with is that a good club fitting is worth every penny, especially in a driver.  A couple of the ones in the Minneapolis area will comp the fitting cost if you buy a driver on the spot.  For the most part, most companies have a wide enough range of standard no upcharge shafts that you can find something that fits your swing.  Will it be 100% maxing out your distance, maybe, maybe not.  Trying a range of aftermarket shafts can help to get you closer to that max, but not necessarily worth the upgrade price.  Some of the aftermarket shafts feel like a cannon when you hit them, some feel like a 2x4, some feel like a fishing rod.  The Oban Black shaft for me felt like that cannon...

Just my 2 cents.  

Driver: Taylormade '16 M2, Aldila NV 2KXV X

3W:  Taylormade '16 M2, Speeder 661 X

3:  Callaway X-forged UT 21*

4-P:  Callaway X-Forged, Modus 3 120 - S

Wedges:  50* - Callaway Apex Pro 19, 54* - Taylormade Milled Grind 2 black, 58* - Taylormade Milled Grind 2 black

Putter:  currently Odyssey Works V-Line Versa CB - 36"

Ball - Bridgestone Tour B X

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After finding and going through a quality Driver fitting (The Performance Center at Sawgrass - Josh Gumlia), I would argue you can't afford NOT to do a driver fitting. Here's what I mean......I can't tell you how many off the rack clubs I've purchased over the years (LOTS of $$) that absolutely wasn't right for me (wasted $). This is what the manufacturers count on!

Today, I'm playing my best golf ever with fitted clubs and vowed NEVER to buy another club off the rack that I know I'll abandon shortly after buying.....BECAUSE it's not right for me!

I'd recommend doing a proper fitting. Once you know what you want, search the golf forums and Market place for what you need and buy used. There's a lot of great used stuff out there! I'd even tell the fitter that you want to try several 18-19' model shafts. You can usually find 1-3 year old shafts online cheap. I've got one for sale in the classifieds here now for less than 1/2 what it cost new.

Here's another option.....find a used head you like: TM M2 (Still one of the greatest heads ever made), M5 or M6. Take that head to the fitting and find a shaft that works for you. I would think you could be all in around $500 or less. I've seen 2 M2's on local FB Market place in the last week for $100.

Just my opinion. Good luck in your search.

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:taylormade-small: SIM Max 9* w/Hzrdous Smoke Small Batch Green 70g stiff

:taylormade-small: SIM 3w Titanium w/Diamana Limited 75g stiff shaft

:taylormade-small: SIM 5w Titanium w/Diamana Limited 75g stiff shaft

:srixon-small: 4-AW (Nippon Modus 120 Stiff)

:callaway-small: Jaws 54* (Steelfiber i95 Stiff)

:callaway-small: Jaws 58* (Steelfiber i95 Stiff)

:taylormade-small: TP Collection Ardmore 2 w/Gravity Grip

:titelist-small: AVX White Ball/:srixon-small: Q star Tour

 

 

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23 minutes ago, dalejbrass said:

After finding and going through a quality Driver fitting (The Performance Center at Sawgrass - Josh Gumlia), I would argue you can't afford NOT to do a driver fitting. Here's what I mean......I can't tell you how many off the rack clubs I've purchased over the years (LOTS of $$) that absolutely wasn't right for me (wasted $). This is what the manufacturers count on!

Today, I'm playing my best golf ever with fitted clubs and vowed NEVER to buy another club off the rack that I know I'll abandon shortly after buying.....BECAUSE it's not right for me!

I'd recommend doing a proper fitting. Once you know what you want, search the golf forums and Market place for what you need and buy used. There's a lot of great used stuff out there! I'd even tell the fitter that you want to try several 18-19' model shafts. You can usually find 1-3 year old shafts online cheap. I've got one for sale in the classifieds here now for less than 1/2 what it cost new.

Here's another option.....find a used head you like: TM M2 (Still one of the greatest heads ever made), M5 or M6. Take that head to the fitting and find a shaft that works for you. I would think you could be all in around $500 or less. I've seen 2 M2's on local FB Market place in the last week for $100.

Just my opinion. Good luck in your search.

Josh is a great fitter. He’s been ping fitter of the year a few times. He did all my fittings here in Maryland for years. Fortunately his replacement is pretty good too. Glad you had a good experience with him. 

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Driver: Titleist 917D3 9.5 with Graphite Design MAD Pro 65g S

Wood: Titleist 917F2 with UST Mamiya Helium 5F4

Hybrid: Titleist 816H1 21 with Atmos Blue 85 S

Irons: Titleist 718 AP3 4i, 718 CB 5-6, MB 7-9 with KBS $ Taper 125

Wedges: Vokey SM7 46/50/54/60 with DG s200

Putter: Scotty Caemeron Super Rat1

Ball: Titleist Prov1

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On 1/26/2020 at 6:44 AM, Golf84 said:

I have never done a real club fitting, only have done the ones at Dick's or Edwin Watts.  I'm in the market to buy the new SIM driver, if I'm not willing to pay $300-$500 for an aftermarket shaft, is it even worth paying $150 to get fitted for a driver? 

SIM $550, fitting $150, shaft $300-500...not really looking to spend over $1K on a driver...so with that in mind, is it even worth getting fitted for an aftermarket shaft?

 

 

On 1/26/2020 at 9:08 AM, hckymeyer said:

Let's re-arrange these questions in the order you should be asking them.

Should I get fit for a driver? Is the $100-$150 worth it?  In my opinion, absolutely yes.  From the sound of things you've never been through a quality driver fitting.  Unless you randomly found a great fit with your current driver it's pretty good odds that you are leaving yards on the table.  Start with the driver fitting and that will help answer the remaining questions.

I'm in the market for a SIM driver.  Ok so this one isn't really a question, but how sure are you that you want a SIM?  What if that's not the best driver for you?  Go in to the driver fitting with an open mind and you may end up with the SIM, but it's also possible you end up in something else.  Only you can decide if you just want a SIM or if you want the best driver for your game

Is an aftermarket shaft worth it?  This isn't really a fair question.  There is such a range of shafts out there that any random aftermarket shaft, regardless of cost, is really a crap shoot if it will fit you without going through a driver fitting.  For me personally I found the cost completely worth it.  But I also sourced the shaft myself and built it, so with a used head, used shaft and doing the work myself it ended up costing less than buying a stock new setup. The question isn't "Is an aftermarket shaft worth the cost"  the question should be "Is the best shaft for my game worth the cost?"  Only you can answer that question, and it's entirely possible the best shaft for you is a stock or no up-charge option 

At the end of the day it's your time and money so only you can decide if the costs are worth the performance gains.  But I would absolutely go in for a true quality driver fitting before anything else.  You're going to drop $550 on a new driver, it seems almost fiscally irresponsible to not do a fitting first to make sure you are getting the proper specs and shaft for your game.

Last advice, if an aftermarket shaft is out of your budget I would recommend letting the fitter know that going in.  Almost every OEM has a list of no-upcharge shafts that is larger than the 2 or 3 stock offerings they have in the store.  Just let the fitter know that you are limited in shaft selection to any no up-charge shaft before you start the fitting, a good fitter will be able to work with that.

Late to the party on this thread, but if you have already purchased hopefully you got a fitting. I will add my $0.02 cents into the mix...

Should I get fit for a driver? Is the $100-$150 worth it?  Depends on where you live at, and that is because some are better than others. Club champion charges that because they have a huge amount of overhead to cover their high quality fitters, but they do have specials from time to time. However my shop charges $100 but if you buy clubs after it is only $50. Make sure they test how you load the shaft so you can get a few options you like.

I'm in the market for a SIM driver... Well be open to other options that might perform better...

Is an aftermarket shaft worth it? Worth is all in your opinion. In mine it is not even a question. Be smart though there are forums on here to do trades and ebay you can always snag deals. I bought my Tensei CK Pro white for $110 on ebay after the seller had it sit for weeks the shaft goes for $325+ new. Shafts last a long time just make sure to ask to take the grip off and get a serial number to make sure it is real.Same goes for the driver as well. You can find an answer man's club on ebay for way cheaper. I bought my Sim for $325, but look for senior regular and ladies flexes since they bid less when you're going to change the shaft anyway. Total spent on my sim $435 + $100 for my fitting and I am out the door cheaper than a brand new one.

These are just my $0.02 but the fitting is key since it is very difficult for an ameatour to figure things out on there own. Once you have the knowledge then use tools and resources to help make your budget go further. 

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Driver:taylormade-small: SIM 10.5, Graphite Design Tour AD-XC 6X 

Woods:cobra-small: SpeedZone 14.5, Graphite Design Tour AD-XC 7X

Hybrid: :ping-small: G410 4H, Mitsubishi Tensei Pro White 90X

UDI:titelist-small: U500 2i, Graphite Design Tour AD-DI 95X

Irons:titelist-small: T-100 3-PW, Nippon Modus 120 X

Wedges: :ping-small: Glide Forged, DG TI S400, 52/56/60

Putter:  :EVNROLL: ER1.2 W/BGT Stability Shaft

Ball:  :titelist-small: ProV1X-Optic Yellow

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Still on topic but what does the aftermarket(custom) shaft give you that the stock doesn't? I'm sure those that are in the low/middle single digits want to squeeze that extra yard out, but for me being a 13 cap, I just want to be in the shorts grass and if someone blows by me 5-10 yards that's fine, hopefully my iron or short game will be better than his.

:ping-small: G400 MAX  Alta CB- 55

:cobra-small: FW 15* King F-7 :Fuji: PRO-65

:ping-small: G400 Hybrid Alta CB-70

PXG 0211 5-SW Mitsubishi MMT Graphite

:titelist-small: AP1 52* SW TT XP-95

:taylormade-small: MG 58* TT DG Wedge

:bettinardi-1: BB-41

Grips- GP MCC+4

 

 

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15 minutes ago, TENBUCK said:

Still on topic but what does the aftermarket(custom) shaft give you that the stock doesn't? I'm sure those that are in the low/middle single digits want to squeeze that extra yard out, but for me being a 13 cap, I just want to be in the shorts grass and if someone blows by me 5-10 yards that's fine, hopefully my iron or short game will be better than his.

That depends on the person. For some it might not give anything and for others it gives better launch characteristics and/or feel.

Stock shafts are used to fit the wide majority of golfer. The shafts used are there to provide the shaft brand sales as well as for the club companies to have a range of shafts tor help golfers find a good fit. Not all shafts and shaft materials are the same. This is to say stock shafts are bad especially when you look at brands that offering Project x hzrdus smoke as a non upgrade or their even flow line, or aldila offering their latest premium shafts in a couple brands to get exposure. There’s lots of good stock shafts out there and lots of good made for shafts as well. Ping has probably the best stock shafts of any brand out there. 

A brand can achieve feels/performance thru placement of the graphite flags, the number of flags, the alignment of them and the type of material used.

So many get focused on aftermarket shafts in woods and forget that there are stock and upgrade/aftermarket shafts in irons as well.

In wood shafts it’s going to come down to the the amount of premium materials used.

 

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Driver: Titleist 917D3 9.5 with Graphite Design MAD Pro 65g S

Wood: Titleist 917F2 with UST Mamiya Helium 5F4

Hybrid: Titleist 816H1 21 with Atmos Blue 85 S

Irons: Titleist 718 AP3 4i, 718 CB 5-6, MB 7-9 with KBS $ Taper 125

Wedges: Vokey SM7 46/50/54/60 with DG s200

Putter: Scotty Caemeron Super Rat1

Ball: Titleist Prov1

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4 hours ago, TENBUCK said:

Still on topic but what does the aftermarket(custom) shaft give you that the stock doesn't? I'm sure those that are in the low/middle single digits want to squeeze that extra yard out, but for me being a 13 cap, I just want to be in the shorts grass and if someone blows by me 5-10 yards that's fine, hopefully my iron or short game will be better than his.

Adding on to what RickyBobby_PR said.   You indicated that you want to be in the short grass;   The shaft helps with timing,  its job is to help ensure it bends and delivers the head to the ball in a manner that enables you to hit the ball with the same face angle and deflection each time.  A shaft that doesn't fit you  (aftermarket or stock) won't let you do that.  Shafts have different profiles and all flex and unflex a little differently.    You can find a stock shaft that works well and there isn't a need for an aftermarket or you can perhaps fine tune a little bit with an aftermarket.   The goal isn't always more distance;  most people would prefer more control and narrower dispersion.  

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Driver:  :ping-small: G400 Max 9* with UST Proforce V2
Fairway: :titelist-small: TS3 15* set  to 16.5* w/Project X Hzardous Smoke
Hybrids:  :titelist-small: 816H1 19* set at 18* w/KBS Tour Graphite Hybrid Prototype
                :titelist-small: 915H  21*  w/KBS Tour Graphite Hybrid Prototype
               :titelist-small: 915H 24*  w/KBS Tour Graphite Hybrid Prototype
Irons:      :srixon-small: 765 6-AW with KBS Tour shafts
Wedge:  :cleveland-small: 588 54-14, 58-12
Putter:  :odyssey-small: Ten S      Backups:  :bobby-grace-1: 6330,   :EVNROLL: ER2.2,  

 

Member:  MGS Hitsquad since 2017697979773_DSCN2368(Custom).JPG.a1a25f5e430d9eebae93c5d652cbd4b9.JPG

 

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9 minutes ago, cnosil said:

Adding on to what RickyBobby_PR said.   You indicated that you want to be in the short grass;   The shaft helps with timing,  its job is to help ensure it bends and delivers the head to the ball in a manner that enables you to hit the ball with the same face angle and deflection each time.  A shaft that doesn't fit you  (aftermarket or stock) won't let you do that.  Shafts have different profiles and all flex and unflex a little differently.    You can find a stock shaft that works well and there isn't a need for an aftermarket or you can perhaps fine tune a little bit with an aftermarket.   The goal isn't always more distance;  most people would prefer more control and narrower dispersion.  

And with technology in shafts and heads these days one doesn’t have to sacrifice distance for dispersion or vice versa. A good fitting will optimize both 

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Driver: Titleist 917D3 9.5 with Graphite Design MAD Pro 65g S

Wood: Titleist 917F2 with UST Mamiya Helium 5F4

Hybrid: Titleist 816H1 21 with Atmos Blue 85 S

Irons: Titleist 718 AP3 4i, 718 CB 5-6, MB 7-9 with KBS $ Taper 125

Wedges: Vokey SM7 46/50/54/60 with DG s200

Putter: Scotty Caemeron Super Rat1

Ball: Titleist Prov1

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... I want to add something that has not been addressed. If you are playing one shaft in one driver for the life of both you are gonna be just fine with a Made For shaft if it fits you. However, if you have a second driver or break your shaft or it's stolen or lost or borrowed and not returned, the chances of you finding another Mader For shaft that performs just like the shaft you have been playing might be a different story. One of the things you pay for with a premium shaft is consistency.  So Like PMookie who unfortunately had his Ventus break at the adaptor, he can be sure his new Ventus will be as close to his old shaft as possible and he should be able to install his new Ventus and pick up right where he left off. For some this is a concern and for others, not at all. 

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Driver:   Cobra Speedzone Xtreme 9* ... Tensei Orange 60s
Fw wood: Cobra Speedzone 14.5* ... Atmos TS Blue 7s
Utility:   Callaway Super Hybrid 17*   ... Tensei Pro Orange 80 hy s-flex
Irons:    4-Gw Titleist T100-S ... Steelfiber 95 r-flex
Wedges:  SM6 52* F Grind ... Steelfiber 95 r-flex
                 SM7D & SM8M 58* ... Steelfiber 110 s-flex 4 iron shaft
Putter:  Newport 2.5 at 33.5"
Ball:  TaylorMade TP5

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For the most part, all of the shafts available are aftermarket. There aren't, at least I don't think there are, very many cheap "made for" shafts any more. They're all OEM high quality shafts. You just need to find or choose the right one. Maybe I'm wrong, but it seems to me almost all of the shaft options are the OEM models, not the old cheap "made for" shafts. I'm an engineer and I'm into this stuff, but my wife and kids take most of my time and energy, so I'm not as into it and informed as I used to be. Nonetheless, the fitting is still very important. And finding and choosing the right shaft is still very important. Maybe it's just easier to find that shaft these days, even if it costs a little more.

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10 hours ago, therod said:

For the most part, all of the shafts available are aftermarket. There aren't, at least I don't think there are, very many cheap "made for" shafts any more. They're all OEM high quality shafts. You just need to find or choose the right one. Maybe I'm wrong, but it seems to me almost all of the shaft options are the OEM models, not the old cheap "made for" shafts. I'm an engineer and I'm into this stuff, but my wife and kids take most of my time and energy, so I'm not as into it and informed as I used to be. Nonetheless, the fitting is still very important. And finding and choosing the right shaft is still very important. Maybe it's just easier to find that shaft these days, even if it costs a little more.

They made for shafts around today may not be the cheap ones from years past but there are still plenty. Fujikura has 2 or 3, several Diamana ones exist. PX had some for awhile. Technology and materials used has improved over the years and has allowed brands to make better quality made for shafts. Look at graphite iron shafts. They were weak and soft and really only geared for the older, slower swinger, that is no longer the case and there are multiple brands offering them for all golfers

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Driver: Titleist 917D3 9.5 with Graphite Design MAD Pro 65g S

Wood: Titleist 917F2 with UST Mamiya Helium 5F4

Hybrid: Titleist 816H1 21 with Atmos Blue 85 S

Irons: Titleist 718 AP3 4i, 718 CB 5-6, MB 7-9 with KBS $ Taper 125

Wedges: Vokey SM7 46/50/54/60 with DG s200

Putter: Scotty Caemeron Super Rat1

Ball: Titleist Prov1

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On 1/26/2020 at 7:44 AM, Golf84 said:

I have never done a real club fitting, only have done the ones at Dick's or Edwin Watts.  I'm in the market to buy the new SIM driver, if I'm not willing to pay $300-$500 for an aftermarket shaft, is it even worth paying $150 to get fitted for a driver? 

SIM $550, fitting $150, shaft $300-500...not really looking to spend over $1K on a driver...so with that in mind, is it even worth getting fitted for an aftermarket shaft?

 

 

First off, welcome to the forums! 

Last fall I was able to get a free fitting from True Spec Golf's Boston location.  When I walked out of there I had a spec sheet and pricing for a new driver which would have run me $849.  By waiting until the winter and new clubs were released I was able to purchase the same set up online for $245.  For me that's an M5 10.5 with the Tensei Pro White shaft.  All I'm going to need to do is butt trim the shaft a 1/4 inch or so which I'll do after hitting some balls this spring and making sure I'm good on the hosel settings before putting a fresh grip on it.

If you can delay your purchase, or look at the used market or prior versions you can save yourself some serious cash.

I personally DO recommend getting some level of a professional fitting.  Everytime I've been to one I've walked out confident that either my clubs were optimized as is, or I knew what would work better for me.  I've also never been pressured to buy from the fitter, which may be because the fitting fee was separate.  I've had two full bag fittings, and a putter fitting.

Where are you located?  There are lots of really good fitters out there, I'm sure someone who lives in the same area as you could recommend one.

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:cobra-small: Speedzone Driver 10.5 - Ventus Blue 6X

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:cobra-small: KING Forged Tec 5-GW - PX LZ 6.5

:cobra-small: KING MIM Black 52.12 Classic, 56.10 Versatile, 60.04 Widelow - KBS 610 Wedge

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I was fit for a Fuji Evo 5 last year. My dispersion was drastically improved due to the shaft. Obviously the $350 was too much. I bought the shaft used for 25% of the original price. I recommend getting fit then buying the shaft used. 

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I was fit for a Fuji Evo 5 last year. My dispersion was drastically improved due to the shaft. Obviously the $350 was too much. I bought the shaft used for 25% of the original price. I recommend getting fit then buying the shaft used. 

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