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Why do you continue to pick blades over the forgiveness and technology packed into todays irons?


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On 3/12/2019 at 6:40 PM, bens197 said:

I lose strokes because I...

 

1) lose focus

2) short game errors

3) errant drive

Extremely well said!  I think this is true for most.  You might narrow down short game errors into more specific categories to help improve ie putting, sand shots, chips, or pitches to really hone in on what could be a factor.  I'd have the same list, but it would likely flip flop #1 and #3.

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Driver:  image.png.3c6db1120d888f669e07d4a8f890b3f1.pngMavrik Sub Zero 9* (Set to 10) Ventus Blue 6X

2 Hybrid: :titelist-small: 818 H2 Hybrid Tensei Blue 80 X

3 Hybrid: :titelist-small: 818H2 Fujikura Atmos TS Blue 8X

4 Iron - Srixon ZX 23* Recoil F5

Irons 5-PW: :mizuno-small: MP 18 SC Dynamic Gold AMT X

Gap/Sand Wedge:  :titelist-small: Vokey SM6 49*  SM8 54* 

Lob Wedge:  image.png.3c6db1120d888f669e07d4a8f890b3f1.pngJaws 5 Wedge 58* DG Tour Issue Stiff

Putter:  image.png.cca2328f4144a299c795aa9b8f3bf677.png Inovai 6.0              :scotty-small: Pro Platinum Newport 2 35"  

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I never understood why there was such a strong opinion towards people who shouldn’t play blades. I feel confident playing my Hogan’s (prior to that it was 962b’s and 670’s) and I kept it under a 4 ind

I have tried to push myself into a more forgiving design as I have gotten older and play less often. However, I was a decent player, played college, and still shoot under par throughout the year. I ha

Another consideration, in my mind, is where you are losing strokes. Personally, I lose the vast majority off the tee and around the green. For my current skill level, I consider myself a decent ball-s

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Extremely well said!  I think this is true for most.  You might narrow down short game errors into more specific categories to help improve ie putting, sand shots, chips, or pitches to really hone in on what could be a factor.  I'd have the same list, but it would likely flip flop #1 and #3.


Lose focus is my hard and fast #1. I’ll have a solid round and then woah! Squirrel! [emoji4]
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I was playing blades and thought I wanted more forgiveness in my irons. Went to a more cavity style iron and immediately wanted to go back to blades. I hit the ball way too high and can’t control the trajectory as well with the cavity irons.


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  • 2 weeks later...
12 minutes ago, Puttingmatt said:

I like knowing how they are going to perform.

I have played blades for 40 plus years. Why change now ? 

 

... Since you asked  😉  the one constant in life is ... change. We are in a constant state of changing and adapting. New irons offer the best of all worlds from MB like performance in a more forgiving players iron to max forgiveness in a SGI iron and lots of irons in-between. I too know how all my irons are going to perform, even if some required a short adjustment period. Of course there is nothing wrong with tradition and if playing older/newer MB's work for you, nothin wrong with still playin 'em. 

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Driver:   TaylorMade SIM2 Max ... Diamana Limited 60R
Fairway:  Cobra SZ 14.5* ... Atmos Blue TS 7S
Utility:   Callaway Super Hybrid 17*   ... Diamana Limited 65R
               TaylorMade DHy 19* ... Diamana Limited 65R
Irons:    4-Pw Cobra King Tour MIM ... Nippon 950gh r-flex
Wedges:  Cobra Snakebite 50* ... Nippon 950gh r-flex
                 Mizuno T20 58* ... Nippon 950gh r-flex
Putter:  Cleveland Hunting Beach Soft 11S 33.5"
Ball:      TaylorMade TP5x (2021)

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Well I am late to this party as usual. All good answers as I would certainly expect from the folks on this site. Chisag and Rev nailed it. From what I read on here over the years Chisag and I play a similar game even though I think he is a little longer than I am.

Golf is very subjective. Guys like me learned with balata and blades. Like someone else mentioned it has a lot to do with turf interaction on the sole. For me it is feel and sight at address. For me with most CBs I can not shape my shots right and get consistent distance. 

I can give you a good example. I have been playing a set of early forged KZG CBs with graphite shafts due to back problems. I love the feel of the Kyoei forgings. So much when my back healed some I did a trade deal for the same set with Rifle 5.5 steel shafts. These are the same irons Deejaid described and plays.  2 weeks ago I had to play in a company related scramble. I had not played or hit balls in 3 weeks. Had the steel shafted KZGs in the bag but threw my old Mac blades in the van. Got there early and they have hitting nets. I hit the old Mac 7 iron and 8 iron into the nets kinda got into the groove. We started on #14 and I had the KZGs in the bag. Hit them good but straight. Could not get my cut working. when we got off 18 to the van I went and got the old Macs and my Cleveland wedges. Got my cut working. I have my distances with the old blades dialed in from memory. Learned my lesson (again). I can absolutely not play golf without my baby cut. My wife laughed when I came in with the Macs and Clevelands in the bag. She told me that I always go back to some kind of Mac or Hogan blades. I can care less if someone else hits 8 iron where I am hitting a 6 iron. Yep the old Macs are a club shorter than the KZGs.

Personally I do not care what clubs someone plays period and I flat refuse to state that blades will make anyone a better ball striker. With the way I have my Macs tuned with lead tape and tip flex I have no height issues. Now I will admit I do not hit the 3 and 4 irons as high as I used to but that is why I have that little 23* Adams hybrid and I can take my little 16* fairway choke up and open it up some. Usually the wind blows here a lot so height is not a real issue As I have always said There is no etched in stone proper way to play this game that goes for how you execute the swing or plot the course or what type or brand of equipment one chooses to use.  My .02 FWIW 

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Driver --- Honma G1-X Stock R Flex----  3W Callaway Steelhead UST Pro Force Gold 65 stiff--- 2 iron 1980 Macgregor VIP Nike R flex-------- Irons 3 thru PW 1980 Macgregor VIP Hogan Apex shafts--- SW Cleveland 588 Sensicore S-400-- Putter Rusty Santa Fe Bulls Eye Fluted shaft-- Bag Old School Hoofer I had in the stash--- Goes along with my raggety persona

 

 

 

 

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15 hours ago, Puttingmatt said:

I like knowing how they are going to perform.

I have played blades for 40 plus years. Why change now ? 

I try to keep pounding that into my hard head every time I stray.

Driver --- Honma G1-X Stock R Flex----  3W Callaway Steelhead UST Pro Force Gold 65 stiff--- 2 iron 1980 Macgregor VIP Nike R flex-------- Irons 3 thru PW 1980 Macgregor VIP Hogan Apex shafts--- SW Cleveland 588 Sensicore S-400-- Putter Rusty Santa Fe Bulls Eye Fluted shaft-- Bag Old School Hoofer I had in the stash--- Goes along with my raggety persona

 

 

 

 

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3 hours ago, BIG STU said:

I can care less if someone else hits 8 iron where I am hitting a 6 iron. Yep the old Macs are a club shorter than the KZGs.

Personally I do not care what clubs someone plays period and I flat refuse to state that blades will make anyone a better ball striker. As I have always said There is no etched in stone proper way to play this game that goes for how you execute the swing or plot the course or what type or brand of equipment one chooses to use.  My .02 FWIW 

 

... And your scorecard also couldn't care less (even though you rednecked that line) 😉.  If you are playing the correct tees and have clubs in your bag that can cover every gap, how far you hit your irons is irrelevant. Golf is a game of always trying to get better, work on your weakness but understand your strengths and then play to them. For instance, a baby cut for you is repeatable and accurate and a straight ball is problematic. You have always been a rare but perfect example of someone who plays MB's as the most forgiving irons they can effectively play.  

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Driver:   TaylorMade SIM2 Max ... Diamana Limited 60R
Fairway:  Cobra SZ 14.5* ... Atmos Blue TS 7S
Utility:   Callaway Super Hybrid 17*   ... Diamana Limited 65R
               TaylorMade DHy 19* ... Diamana Limited 65R
Irons:    4-Pw Cobra King Tour MIM ... Nippon 950gh r-flex
Wedges:  Cobra Snakebite 50* ... Nippon 950gh r-flex
                 Mizuno T20 58* ... Nippon 950gh r-flex
Putter:  Cleveland Hunting Beach Soft 11S 33.5"
Ball:      TaylorMade TP5x (2021)

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I always said it would take a lot to knock the Z745s out of my bag, but I’ve got a set of Z965s I’m toying with right now that just may do it.  Not huge on the rounded toe, but sweet baby Jesus these things feel amazing.  As far as blade vs cb, no real reason for me to change, but less offset is always better to my eye and a thinner top line and sole are pluses too.

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On 5/14/2019 at 10:31 AM, chisag said:

 

... And your scorecard also couldn't care less (even though you rednecked that line) 😉.  If you are playing the correct tees and have clubs in your bag that can cover every gap, how far you hit your irons is irrelevant. Golf is a game of always trying to get better, work on your weakness but understand your strengths and then play to them. For instance, a baby cut for you is repeatable and accurate and a straight ball is problematic. You have always been a rare but perfect example of someone who plays MB's as the most forgiving irons they can effectively play.  

Correct you summed me up in a nutshell better than I could do it myself. I know it sounds funny but I can not play golf hitting the ball straight or a draw. I do have a couple of clubs I can draw if needed but instead of taking a chance of hooking it and totally screwing up I will hit a position shot where I can hopefully get a wedge of some sort under it. As far as rednecking the line you guys would not expect anything less of me would you?😉

Like I said you and I think alike and you are one of the few that understands how quirky my game is.

Edited by BIG STU

Driver --- Honma G1-X Stock R Flex----  3W Callaway Steelhead UST Pro Force Gold 65 stiff--- 2 iron 1980 Macgregor VIP Nike R flex-------- Irons 3 thru PW 1980 Macgregor VIP Hogan Apex shafts--- SW Cleveland 588 Sensicore S-400-- Putter Rusty Santa Fe Bulls Eye Fluted shaft-- Bag Old School Hoofer I had in the stash--- Goes along with my raggety persona

 

 

 

 

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Always love this topic. The great part is, with the expansion of product lines we have endless options.

20th century options: Blade, CB, shovel

2019: Blade, CB, "Players" GI, GI, SGI, and now more and more companies are blending their sets (I think this will only increase too). To each their own!

Personally I love my Cobra CBs and they are far more forgiving than CBs of old despite being scary small when I first tried them, and the feel absolutely cannot be beat by a multi-piece GI offering. The one compromise I made was to start the set at the 5 iron (26* if we're comparing apples to apples 🙄). I definitely appreciate the forgiveness on my GAPR LO and Forged Tec 4i for longer shots where, for me at least, mis-hits are penalized more.

Anyway, I lose way more shots from sh*t drives and mental midgetry than from my irons that I am technically on the fence for as a 7 HC.

Driver:  :titelist-small: TSi 3 10* w/ Graphite Design AD IZ 7X 

Fairway: :titelist-small: TSi 2 15* w/ Graphite Design AD IX 7X

Hybrid: :titelist-small: TSi2* 17* w/ Atmos Blue 85x  

Utility: :ping-small: i500 3i (19*) w/ MMT 125tx

Irons: :cobra-small: King Forged CB w/ KBS $ Taper 130

Wedges:  :vokey-small: SM7 54 S, 58 M w/ Modus 125

Putter:  :cameron-small:  California Hollywood 34" Circle H

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  • 3 weeks later...

Well now I can join this conversation with a lean to the blade side. My blades are the mp5, which I would guess to be a quite forgiving “channel back” type. Yes they are a little shorter, but they spin better so I am hoping they hold on my hard greens a little better. And the feel is fantastic, as any blade player will tell you. I think that most of the new “tech” is mostly for distance, but always at a cost in spin numbers, citing a steeper descent angle that reduces the need for spin.

ill be a perfect case study for seeing if playing blades will hurt my index, as I’m pretty locked in at where I’m at now. But I don’t really care about taking an extra iron or two to make up the distance I’ll lose from the p790’s. I’ve gotten to the age where I don’t really care anymore about impressing with distance. I actually think I might lower my index with better accuracy and stopping power. It will be a fun exercise. But in the meantime, as my first round showed me, the feel of a well hit mizzy is worth the price of admission...

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:Hogan: Combo iron set -8,9,per Icon 5,6,7 PtxPro 4-UiHi on Recoil 780 ES f4 Stiff shafts (best clubs ever)

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[emoji817] % turf interaction for me when playing blades over CB. Off the tee CB works better but off the ground I find myself hitting quit a few fat shots. A blade slides nicely through the turf with my swing style.


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I like blades simply because of how beautiful they are and how consistent they are.  With forgiving CBs, I find that occasionally I will hit a flier and have the ball go farther than I intend.  Theres nothing worse than hitting what you think is a perfect shot, only to airmail it over the green.

"I suppose its better to be a master of 7 than to be vaguely familiar with 14." - Chick Evans

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Woods: Tommy Armour Atomic 10.5* 

Irons: Mizuno MP Fli-Hi 21* and Mizuno T-Zoid True 5, 7 and 9-irons

Wedge: Mizuno S18 Blue Ion 54*

Putter: Mizuno Bettinardi A-02

Ball: Maxfli Tour X

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I had the opportunity to hit the Wilson Staff Model 2019 blades last weekend with the Dynamic Gold S300 shafts. Sweet ! They were a beautiful club to hit.

~ ward ~

Driver: Callaway B21 9.5 Degrees. Graphite Design XC6 S Flex 43.5" Length. Golf Pride CP2 MidSize Wrap / 3-Wood: Cobra F7 @ 16 Degrees / Aldila MSI 95 70g 3.3 Stiff. Golf Pride CP2 MidSize Wrap / Hybrid: Callway BB Alpha 815 @ 20 Degrees / Speeder 865 Shaft / Irons: Srixon z785. Modus NS Pro 120 (Stiff). Golf Pride CP2 MidSize Wrap / Wedges: Titleist Vokey - SM5 F Grind 50 degree (-1 degree) 08 Degrees of Bounce (-1 degree), SM5 S Grind 54 degree (-1 degree) 10 Degrees of Bounce, SM5 M Grind 58 degree 08 Degrees of Bounce. Golf Pride CP2 MidSize Wrap.

Putter: Odyssey.

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I have played some amazing blades through the years with my favorites being Founders Club 200 Series, Mizuno MP 14's and Saqra INB-1150. I have just this last year gone to Ping i500 from the Saqra’s which I have played since 2013. The Ping's don't feel anywhere near the clubs listed but I do very much appreciate the forgiveness, as well as, the minimal offset and clean lines. I can certainly work them when needed but it's not the same as what I have had the last few years and to be honest I have toyed with a blended set of iBlades or even Blueprint in the short irons. I hit the Blueprint 7 iron at Golf Galaxy tonight and it is just lovely. That said, I'm not sure I want to give up the forgiveness. I am hitting just a ton of greens and I'm not having the spin issues I know some have had as of yet with the i500. As has already been stated several times in this thread - play what you can effectively play and play what brings you the most enjoyment. I can understand why folks stick with blades, just like I see why others choose more forgiveness. I remember when I first started playing golf with blades and balata balls and I thought that a player had to use blades and I carried that with me a long time. Then I saw Kenny Perry playing an iron I thought was for hackers and I realized what an imbecile I was. Now that I'm a bit older and hopefully a bit wiser I understand that it truly doesn't matter what you play if you know how to use it. I aspire to be a golfer who knows how to use what's in his bag. Just my.02 cents :) Play well!

 

 

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Adams 4555 19* Matrix Ozik Altus 80 S/X 42"

Ping G410 Crossover 2 Project X Even Flow Blue 85 6.0 40"

Ping i500 4-8 Modus 105 Stiff

Ping Blueprint 9-P Modus 105 Stiff

Fourteen RM-12 53* and 58* Tour Issue Black Onyx s400 

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Well said trb...

it is interesting how some people are so stuck on everyone needing to play “newer tech” clubs, and calling blade players stubborn or egotistical.

ive played old blades when I was a youngster (that’s all there was) and gone thru so many different clubs over the years, Titleist dci, 962’s, mp33’s mp64’s, Titleist ap2’s, p790’s, some Japanese CB’s, and so on.

my favorites were the mp33’s. But I wasn’t as good as I am now, but I remember how fantastic they felt. But now I get to play most everyday and my game is pretty good now. I found my current set of combo mp5/mp25 at a very good price and decided to try them on a whim. My clubs were some p790’s on regular recoil es 760 SW at 68 grams. The mizzys are on TT XP115 Stiff flex. That’s a 47 gram difference in shaft weights, also from a c7 to a d2. So, quite a different animal in almost every way. So my first range session resulted in endless shanks, and major frustrations, but I concluded that the extra weight and physics was just making the club go out a little wider- thus the shanks. So I basically just backed away from the ball by about an inch and a half, and then started making good contact. Now about 4-5 games in I’m getting used to the new setup, and really getting some steady contact. And so the last few games and expspecially today, I’ve been hitting a LOT of great hits. The accuracy is fantastic, the distances are constant, although shorter than the p790’s by a club, but the lofts are way softer so that’s an easy to understand deal.

the spin however is stopping the ball really well, and with the accuracy and distance control, I’m hitting and staying on the greens better, and what cannot be emphasized enough, is the FEEL, along with the acoustics. I mean every well struck shot is nothing short of candy for the golf senses. And that is a feeling that you cannot get with the new fancy tech distance clubs. But if you really think about it, how much distance do you really need out of your irons? Here are some distances I have left after a decent drive at my track:

hole 1, 100-80 yds left, usually a wedge,    hole 2, par5, I hit a 4 or 5 iron on second shot, but, I could also hit a fairway wood.     Hole 3,  140 ish ,a 7 or 8     hole 4 par 3, an 8 iron     hole 5, 150-100, downhill ,anywhere from a 7 to a wedge      hole 6 210 par 3, hybrid     hole 7,  135-100ish ,an 8-W     hole 8, 150ish 6 - 8       hole 9,  135-120ish 8-pw...

So really, do you really need that many long irons? I would suggest if you have a lot of shots longer then that, moving up to the next tee box might make sense?

and also, almost all wedges are “blades” right? Y’all can hit those well right? Well blades are about the same thing, they just go a little further.

so for me, the game has become much more enjoyable now that I’ve switched back to blades, and I don’t see my index rising because of it either, but perhaps, it might get lower. But that’s a story for another day in the future. I agree to hit what you want, but I would also say that one shouldn’t assume the newer equipment is better for everyone, and I would guess that more people might possible even benefit by playing blades.

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:cobra-small: Speedzone 3-wood on Tensi blue S

:cobra-small: F8 5/6 wood on Aldila NxT GEN MLT R

:Hogan: Combo iron set -8,9,per Icon 5,6,7 PtxPro 4-UiHi on Recoil 780 ES f4 Stiff shafts (best clubs ever)

:benhogan-small: Equalizer 50°, 54°, 60° wedges on Recoil 780 f4

 :EVNROLL: ER3 34”

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... Ah Sluggo I was hanging with you but you lost me at "I would guess that more people might possible even benefit by playing blades." At WRX this is the cry of those that shouldn't be playing MB's and know it but try and justify their choice. I have fought the MB fight over there forever but it is like talking to a brick wall. You did say "quite a different animal in every way" and I feel pretty sure your opinion of your 2 irons would be radically different if you had the 68gm Recoils in the MP5/25's and the XP115's in the 790's. Additionally IF you do not have a high launch, the low spinning 790's can be problematic holding greens. I hit the ball very high with my 790's so holding greens isn't a problem here in the midwest, but in Phoenix with rock hard greens and the ball carrying farther even with a very high trajectory, I had to switch to P760's because my long irons were rolling off the back of greens, so I understand why they may not have worked for you. Of course this is used at WRX a ton too, can't make the switch from my MB's to players distance irons. While a good player certainly can adjust as golfertrb has done just the with i500's, most would do better switching to a players non distance iron that provides everything a MB does but with added forgiveness. It is up to each individual to figure out how much forgiveness is best for their game. Using Titleist as an example, some will find what works for them in the CB's, or a CB AP2 combo, full set of AP2's, AP2 and AP3 combo or a full set of MP3s. Going to AP1's would be problematic for any MB player and unnecessary to make that big of a leap. So lots of choices that do not include players distance irons unless they are desirable.

... I would add while playing shorter tee's is and should be desirable to most, better players like using all the clubs in their bag every round. My favorite course has 2 killer par 4's that call for anything form a 6 iron to a 3 wood depending on the wind and I love the challenge. I have been under par too many times to count coming into #7 a 448yd uphill the entire way, into the wind par 4 and walked away with a bogie. But the days I make par or the few times I have birdied this hole are extremely rewarding. It is a very difficult hole but fair. 

... All that said (aside from others might benefit from playing MB's) it sounds like you have found a combo set you love. I don't know where the change begins but pw-8 and 7-5/4/3 is a great way to enjoy MB's. I also think that you truly believe you play better with MB's, so there is a very good chance that you do! And I agree, the candy for the senses feel of a forged carbon steel MB is so exquisite, although my one piece 760 short irons feel exactly like a MB but I appreciate the progressive forgiveness in the 7 thru 4 irons with a thicker face than distance irons and more foam in each head as the loft decreases so they still feel very good, although admittedly not as good as the solid short irons. Keep in mind many players near scratch or better can absolutely play MB's but it is the few shots a round where they may hurt our score that can make a difference. I had 178yds into a strong quartering wind from left to right with water on both sides and subconsciously trying to guide the ball (dumb) I caught my 760 #6 iron a little on the toe. It drifted right with the wind and stopped about 5 yds short of the water and I have no doubt an MB 6 iron would have ended up in the water. I had 2 other slight miss hits that might or might not affected my score but the bulk of my shots would have been pretty much the same with MB's. So for me, one shot a round is enough to play something more forgiving. Ymmv of course. 

... I hope it didn't seem like I was attacking your choice because I am not, as you found some awesome Mizuno irons. I think this says it all "so for me, the game has become much more enjoyable now that I’ve switched back to blades" So congrats on your find and I am genuinely happy for you as you seem to really love your MP5/25 irons.  And in the end, that is really all that matters!  🤗

Edited by chisag
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Driver:   TaylorMade SIM2 Max ... Diamana Limited 60R
Fairway:  Cobra SZ 14.5* ... Atmos Blue TS 7S
Utility:   Callaway Super Hybrid 17*   ... Diamana Limited 65R
               TaylorMade DHy 19* ... Diamana Limited 65R
Irons:    4-Pw Cobra King Tour MIM ... Nippon 950gh r-flex
Wedges:  Cobra Snakebite 50* ... Nippon 950gh r-flex
                 Mizuno T20 58* ... Nippon 950gh r-flex
Putter:  Cleveland Hunting Beach Soft 11S 33.5"
Ball:      TaylorMade TP5x (2021)

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On 4/20/2019 at 6:00 PM, FrogginBullfish said:

Ian Fraser of TXG demonstrated something interesting in a recent video when he was testing irons.

Forgiveness can be relative to a given player. We often think of forgiveness solely from an MOI standpoint but there's also the way a player interacts the club with the ground. Some players suit a thinner sole, others a wider sole. Depends on the attack angle of the player. There's that turf interaction buzzphrase again, but it does mean something.

What it comes down to is getting properly fitted for whatever iron you end up playing. And a good fitter can make a world of difference. There's a lot more to what iron someone should be playing than just their handicap.

I certainly prefer the blade profile with less offset, I miss left... a lot. But for me, having something with some forgiveness in MOI is also important because I don't play often. So I'm looking more at 0311T or P760 style irons over a pure blade.

Sent from my Pixel 2 using MyGolfSpy mobile app
 

So much truth to this.  I learned first hand during my fitting at True Spec that irons with medium to larger soles are no good for me.  

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:ping-small: G410 LST 9* VA Nemesys 65X
:ping-small: G410 LST 14.5* Tour AD DI 7X
:titelist-small: 818 H2 20* Tour AD DI 85X
:mizuno-small: MP20 HMB 4 Tour AD 95X
:mizuno-small: JPX 919 Tour 5-PW Oban CT 115 X(-)
:titelist-small: Vokey SM7 50F - 54S - 59D
:scotty-small: Phantom X 5.5 (2021)
:titelist-small: ProV1
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