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Shaft add on weights


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Hey everyone. Dumb question for you all. I recently re-shafted my callaway mavrik pro irons with some graphite shafts and they are great. However, now I have  5-PW True Temper Elevate 105 stiff shafts that were pulled and have a removable weight in them.  I purchased some Maltby DBM heads to put on them to have a spare set laying around. Should I remove this add on weight in the shaft before putting on the new heads? I have no way of testing swing weight. Thanks for the insight!

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If you don't have a SW scale, I'd just put together a mock club or maybe 2, say your 7 and PW (wedges should weigh 1-2+ SW pts more imo) with the weights either included or taken out, and if you can get them to a shop or PGATSS to have the SW checked, that would give you a basic idea of where the rest of the set should fall with a roughly 1 SW PT tolerance throughout the set. 

You can also use a SW calc like this one. You put the club together with a 2"piece of masking tape to account for glue weight. 

http://www.leaderboard.com/swingwt.htm

This one is about 95% accurate so again, enough to get a pretty good idea. 

Another question I'd want an answer to is whether each weight is the same for each shaft or if they are varying through the set. I'd personally start with removing the weights (assuming they're brass) and cleaning everything up and then start a build from scratch using the weights as options and "as needed" as I work through the set. I see that the factory specs show D3 and the weights were probably used to bump the lighter shafts up to that SW. If you happened to know the head weight of the Maverick Pro's, that might also help determine if the weights are needed for the Maltbys. 

 

Hopefully any of that was at all helpful 😜

   PXG 0311 Gen 5 9°/ Fujikura MotoreX F1 6X
:cobra-small:  F6 3 Wood 14* / Kuro Kage Silver 65X
:cobra-small: F8 6 wood 20* / Fujikura MotoreX F3 6S

:cobra-small: RADSpeed Hybrid 24*
post-76102-0-38507100-1525284411_thumb.jpg TS1 4-GW / FCM Precision 6.5 Rifle
post-76102-0-38507100-1525284411_thumb.jpg  TSW Wedge - 56/12
:edel-golf-1:  EAS 1.0 / Grip master 2.0 

MAXFLI  Tour CG

 

 

 

 

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43 minutes ago, azstu324 said:

Another question I'd want an answer to is whether each weight is the same for each shaft or if they are varying through the set. I'd personally start with removing the weights (assuming they're brass) and cleaning everything up and then start a build from scratch using the weights as options and "as needed" as I work through the set. I see that the factory specs show D3 and the weights were probably used to bump the lighter shafts up to that SW.

 

... I can't begin to estimate how many iron sets I have re-shafted but at least 100 and I have never experienced equal tip weights. I am not saying it isn't possible, I have just never ran across it. Many love to talk about the QC of the legendary Mizuno irons but I have found them to be among the worst for varies tip weighting that ranges from none to maximum. But with virtually all OEMs components produced at different plants and then put together somewhere else, it is pretty unrealistic to think a set could be assembled without any tip weighting while maintaining a consistent swing weight. Fwiw I like your idea of starting from scratch then adding tip weights if needed, but I prefer using lead tape after removing the tip weights because I know that weight is neutral and for me at least playing forged irons, I like that lead tape suffers the bag chatter and not the club head. Ymmv of course ...

Driver:     :taylormade-small:    Qi10 10.5* ... Ventus Red Velocore 5R
Fairway:  :taylormade-small:    Qi10 5 wood ... Kai'li Blue 60R
Hybrids:  :ping-small:        430 Hybrid 22*... Diamana LTD 65r  
                  :taylormade-small:    DHy #4 ... Steelfiber 780Hy  
Irons:       :titleist-small:           '23 T200 5-Pw ... Steelfiber i95r
Wedges:  :titleist-small:           Vokey 50*/54*/58* ... Steelfiber i95r
Putter:     :cobra-small:    Sport-60 33" 
Ball:           Maxfli/:taylormade-small:  Maxfli Tour/TP5x

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2 hours ago, chisag said:

but I prefer using lead tape after removing the tip weights

The issue that @Macgyva will run into with tape is that he's putting it on a DBM finish. Usually lead tape can be somewhat blended with most versions of steel finish. DBM would look kind bad with lead tape. Unless you can pull off like a racing stripe motif but still I think that would really detract from the classic clean looks of the DBM's. 

If the DBM's weigh more than the Mavericks, I'd bet you would be fine without the weights installed.. unless you just like a heavier SW. 

 

   PXG 0311 Gen 5 9°/ Fujikura MotoreX F1 6X
:cobra-small:  F6 3 Wood 14* / Kuro Kage Silver 65X
:cobra-small: F8 6 wood 20* / Fujikura MotoreX F3 6S

:cobra-small: RADSpeed Hybrid 24*
post-76102-0-38507100-1525284411_thumb.jpg TS1 4-GW / FCM Precision 6.5 Rifle
post-76102-0-38507100-1525284411_thumb.jpg  TSW Wedge - 56/12
:edel-golf-1:  EAS 1.0 / Grip master 2.0 

MAXFLI  Tour CG

 

 

 

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

elevates are not made with interchangeable weights. A common practice for OEMs is to add tip weights to obtain a particular swing weight. 

Id would suggest removing the weight as the maltby club head will most likely be heavier than the standard OEM.

Driver - 44.5" 5.0 flex 10.5 deg Graphite Design XC 6S GP MCC4+ 1 deg closed

Irons - 5-pw, GW stnd length 5.0 flex same grip 1 deg flat. Type low medium offset cavity back, no diggers

Wedges - 56 and 60 tour grind wedge spinner and mcc4+ grip 2 flat 10 and 8 in bounce

Putter - Makefield VS LH

Ball - truvis

Carried in a Sun Mountain C-130 USA bag - BE PROUD.

HC - LH but 85 is a good number, playing in Ohio.

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