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Are Adjustable Drivers Worth It/


mad4golf

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hell all,i`ve come into some money and have been toying with the idea of getting a newish driver, my question is do i go adjustable or not for us mere mortals would they make so much difference?I have played this game for 35 years and back in the days of persimmon you had to add lead tape to help you fade or draw the ball,i`ve had a play with an R9 when they came out looked cool and the thought of opening or closing the head felt wrong.I play to a handicap of 9 so i feel i have a good knowledge of the game and swing and adjusting characteristics of clubs,would like your feedback.My options are fully adjustable weight only adjustable or normal driver no adjust ability at all?

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I like adjustability for a couple reasons:

 

1) It gives you the ability to tune the fit more precisely, and get the ball flight that you want.

 

2) For me, the ability to swap shafts quickly and easily is invaluable. Obviously this might not be as useful to someone who doesn't test equipment on a daily basis, but it's fun to be able to tinker without potentially losing a great combo.

 

To my mind, unless you really love one of the non-adjustable drivers out there (Ping G20 is a great one, for example), there's no reason not to get something adjustable. I'm not suggesting that you will or should play with the settings regularly, but why not take the option if it's available?

Follow me on Twitter: @MattSaternus

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I have my first ever adjustable driver and love it - it's a nice safety net. Also because I'm a lower handicapper who needs a higher loft driver it affords me the opportunity to have a neutral club face - many 10.5 lofts and higher are closed a couple of degrees.

 

I like the options that are available to me. It's like the old lead tape without having to use the lead tape.

Taylor Made Stealth 2 10.5 Diamana S plus 60  Aldila  R flex   - 42.25 inches 

SMT 4 wood bassara R flex, four wood head, 3 wood shaft

Ping G410 7, 9 wood  Alta 65 R flex

Srixon ZX5 MK II  5-GW - UST recoil Dart 65 R flex

India 52,56 (60 pending)  UST recoil 75's R flex  

Evon roll ER 5 32 inches

It's our offseason so auditioning candidates - looking for that right mix of low spin long, more spin around the greens - TBD   

 

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Better fitting capabilities, alone, should be one major reason one looks at and potentially chooses an adjustable model.

In The Bag
Driver: TaylorMade M2 (2017) w/ Project X T1100 HZRDUS Handcrafted 65x 
Strong 3 wood: Taylormade M1 15* w/ ProjectX T1100 HZRDUS handcrafted 75x
3 Hybrid: Adams PRO 18* w/ KBS Tour Hybrid S flex tipped 1/2"
4 Hybrid: Adams PRO 20* (bent to 21*) w/ KBS Tour Hybrid S flex tipped 1/2"
4-AW: TaylorMade P770 w/ Dynamic Gold Tour Issue Black Onyx S400

SW: 56* Scratch Tour Dept(CC grooves) w/ Dynamic Gold Spinner
LW: 60* Scratch Tour Department (CC grooves) w/ Dynamic Gold Spinner
XW: 64* Cally XForged Vintage w/ DG X100 8 iron tiger stepped
Putter: Nike Method Prototype 006 at 34"

Have a ton of back-ups in all categories, but there are always 14 clubs in the bag that differ depending on the course and set-up. Bomb and gouge. Yes, I'm a club gigolo.

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I agree that the ability to change shafts easily is enough to make the adjustable well worth the money. Plus, I personally like an open face on my drivers. About the only way to get that on most drivers now is with the open face. Tweeking to fit you is also nice. I have my Razr Fit set up with a fade biased head angle and a draw biased weight system, This thing goes very straight.

:ping-small: G430LST 10.5° on     T P T    POWER 18 Hi Driver 

:ping-small: G430MAX 3w  on     T P T    POWER 18 Hi Fairway 

:ping-small: G425 3H on     T P T    POWER 18 Hi Hybrid 

:ping-small: G425 4H on :kbs: TGH 80S 

:ping-small: i525 5-U on :kbs: TGI 90S 

:titleist-small: SM8 54 & 60 on :kbs: Wedge 

:L.A.B.:DF2.1 on :accra: White

:titelist-small: ProV1  

:918457628_PrecisionPro: Precision Pro  NX7 Pro

All Iron grips are BestGrips Micro-Perforated Mid

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Im partial to one-piece drivers, mainly because my current Hcp. which is about 9-10 right now. My driver swing isnt perfect, and i was thinking about getting an adjustable driver so i can fix my slice. But my Pro came out and told me, at my skill level by getting an adjustable driver you would just masking the problem only creating a short term fix.

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Yes, because of the shaft swapping. I like to try out myriad shafts and 1-screw vs heat-and-pull is just waaaaay to convenient to ignore.

MENTOR, L4 COACH & TRAINER  FIRST TEE GREATER HOUSTON
HDCP: 8.3  (GHIN: 3143312)
In my bag, April 2023
:titelist-small: TS3 Driver & 4 Wood Hzrdous Smoke Shaft (Stiff Flex)
:titelist-small: TS2 Hybrids  Mitsubishi Tensei Shaft (Stiff Flex)
:mizuno-small:  MP-59 5-PW; KBS Tour (Regular Flex)
:titelist-small: SM8 Wedges

EVNROLL ER2  Putter
SRIXON Z-STAR DIAMOND BALL
Sun Mountain Cart Bag
:Clicgear: 4.0 Push Cart (I'm walking 9 outta 10 rounds!!)

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I'll chime in. I like the ability to adjust on the fly when fitting someone, or swapping shafts. However, the idea that I might need to take a perfectly fitted driver and "mess with it" is a little warped. I currently play R9 Superdeep with Fubuki 63 set to neutral face angle and weighting. It is perfect for me. I can remember one day when I was swinging poorly, and was tempted to "adjust" the driver to cover my swing flaws. Big Mistake. I had absolutely zero confidence in the club at this point. I set it back to my normal settings, and dealt with it, and have not touched it since.

 

I also like it for traveling. Just pop the head off, and the most expensive club in the bag is safe.

Driver - Ping G430 Max 9° | Ventus Blue TR 
Hybrid - :srixon-small: ZX 16° & 18° | GD Tour IZ S

2 Iron - :srixon-small: ZU65 17° | AeroTech SteelFiber 110icw S

Irons -  :srixon-small: ZX7 MKII  4-Pw | TTDGTI S400, std length  1° flat
Wedges - :cleveland-small: RTX 6 Tour Rack 50° 54° 58° | TTDGTI S400, std length 1° flat

Putter -  L.A.B. Golf Link.1 | LA Golf P135 shaft | Garsen Quad Tour grip
 

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I have a Taylormade Superdeep and - like others have stated - I enjoy the flexibility of being able to try different shafts as opposed to switching entire drivers. I think the first key is to find the head that suits you. Then, once you determine the shaft characteristics that best fit your swing type, try to decide whether you'll be happier with a higher end shaft or a comparable one at a lower price point. If you consistently go with shafts that cost as much as a new club, you could consider just sticking with one-piece drivers since your spending would possibly end up being at the same level in the long run.

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Well thats awesome just what i needed thanks for all the feedback guys after much thought i`m going to trial one of each for the weekend,i feel that looks play a big part in buying a driver as if it looks good your half way there,after the next weekend will let you know my decision and i`ll add some photo`s too.

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I also like it for traveling. Just pop the head off, and the most expensive club in the bag is safe.

 

 

Travel with my clubs often and have never thought of doing that. Brilliant!!!

 

My 2 cents - fiddled with my driver settings for months - hours of range time, even worked with my pro to find the right settings...turns out factory neutral was best for me. That said, if I had the $$ I'd love to experiment with different shafts.

 

Seriously considering the next driver to be a custom fit/custom built machine from a local club-fitter. He's a Miura-Alpha fitter/builder. Hope my employer is generous with bonuses this year...

 

What's in the bag:
 
Driver:  :titelist-small:TSR3; :wilson_staff_small: DynaPWR Carbon
FW Wood: :wilson_staff_small: DynaPWR 3-wood; :titleist-small: TSR 2+
Hybrids:  PXG Gen4 18-degree
Utility Irons: :srixon-small: ZX MkII 20* 
Irons:;  :Sub70:699/699 Pro V2 Combo; :wilson_staff_small: D9 Forged;  :macgregor-small:MT86 (coming soon!); :macgregor-small: VIP 1025 V-Foil MB/CB; 

Wedges:  :cleveland-small: RTX6 Zipcore
Putter: :cleveland-small: HB Soft Milled 10.5;  :scotty-small: Newport Special Select;  :edel-golf-1:  Willamette,  :bettinardi-small: BB8; :wilson-small: 8802; MATI Monto

Ball: :bridgestone-small: Tour B RXS; :srixon-small: Z-STAR Diamond; :wilson_staff_small: Triad

Stat Tracker/GPS Watch: :ShotScope:


 
Follow @golfspybarbajo

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Ya know, I think that this is what I need!...These off the shelf drivers, even with aftermarket shafts are still off the shelf drivers with aftermarket shafts!.....

 

 

 

 

My Callaway Razr Fit with the Talamonti PD80 shaft is better and more consistant right now than my driver swing.:P

 

But I have a plan to make my driver swing as consistant as my irons. Hopefully, I can do that tomorrow.

:ping-small: G430LST 10.5° on     T P T    POWER 18 Hi Driver 

:ping-small: G430MAX 3w  on     T P T    POWER 18 Hi Fairway 

:ping-small: G425 3H on     T P T    POWER 18 Hi Hybrid 

:ping-small: G425 4H on :kbs: TGH 80S 

:ping-small: i525 5-U on :kbs: TGI 90S 

:titleist-small: SM8 54 & 60 on :kbs: Wedge 

:L.A.B.:DF2.1 on :accra: White

:titelist-small: ProV1  

:918457628_PrecisionPro: Precision Pro  NX7 Pro

All Iron grips are BestGrips Micro-Perforated Mid

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I also play the TM SuperDeep. This is my first adjustable driver and I'm glad it was because it took me a couple shafts to find the right fit. I also tinkered with the heel and toe weighting to get it right. Once I got it set up how I liked it, I haven't touched it. I carried my wrench around for a few weeks before ditching it in the garage.

 

However, I bought the club used with a shaft I'd never hit. I knew I liked the head because I'd hit it before.

 

If I were to buy a new club, I would get it fit and set up for my swing before I bought it.

 

So yeah, adjustable drivers can be nice, but if you just buy the right club for you it is completely irrelevant! I also have to think that the adjustability features require that a club be designed around them. I have never been fully convinced that a club designed to be adjustable isn't sacrificing performance to achieve that vs. a club that doesn't have to factor those things into the build.

Ping I20 8.5* - Aldila NV 65g S
Adams XTD Super Hybrid 15* - Stock Fubuki S
Adams DHY 21* - Stock Matrix Ozik White Tie S
Mizuno MP58 4-8 Irons - Fujikura MCI 100 S
SCOR 42,46,50,54,58* - SCOR/KBS Genius S
STX Robert Ingman Envision TR 35", Iomic grip

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Personally, Im not a believer in adjustable drivers. They dont make big changes in your ballflight and wont fix major swing flaws.

Also, with the adjustable sleeve you have to make compromises elsewhere in the design of the clubhead in order to get the weighting right, which hurts the performance, IMO.

"I suppose its better to be a master of 7 than to be vaguely familiar with 14." - Chick Evans

Whats in my Sun Mountain 2.5+ stand bag?

Woods: Tommy Armour Atomic 10.5* 

Hybrid: Mizuno MP Fli-Hi 3H

Irons: Mizuno T-Zoid True 5, 7 and 9-irons

Wedge: Mizuno S18 54* and Top Flite chipper

Putter: Mizuno Bettinardi A-02

Ball: Maxfli Tour X

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Personally, Im not a believer in adjustable drivers. They dont make big changes in your ballflight and wont fix major swing flaws.

Also, with the adjustable sleeve you have to make compromises elsewhere in the design of the clubhead in order to get the weighting right, which hurts the performance, IMO.

 

I won't argue the second point - I'm not an engineer and I'm inclined to agree with your thought, however...

 

The idea that changing the face angle a couple of degrees won't change ball flight? Really?

 

I usually suggest to people that the value of adjustability is that you can have a driver that makes the game more fun now and also something you can grow with. No reason you can't set it to maximum left on the course to help dial back a slice and then square at the range to try to fix your swing.

Follow me on Twitter: @MattSaternus

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I sort of like adjustable drivers / fairway metals and sort of don't...

 

1) I feel that adjustable equipment benefits the mid to high handicap golfer more then the single digit and better players. I feel this way because it is not like you can adjust the driver in the middle of the round it would be illegal. You have to find a single setting and leave it there, now better players have to learn to hit shots they want at that face position regardless. I feel that the better players could use any driver that has a square face angle and the correct loft. Square face angle gives you the most workability and honestly gives you a great idea as to what the head looked like at impact based on ball flight. If I need a high draw for example I change tee height ball position swing a little more inside to out and release sooner to make sure it draws, If I want a low cut, I tee the ball lower play it back in my stance a little from normal hold off the release and finish low with my hands. I feel that good players don't need to change the face angle to change the trajectory and shot shape.

 

2) I agree with Matt on the point that it makes shaft swapping easy, if you are a shaft hoe then it is a great benefit. Every shaft on the market has slightly different profile and feel to a player, I personally find one that I like in terms of numbers and feel and just play it. The nice thing is that you won't have to use heat on your favorite shaft to test something else, over time heat will weaken the tip of the graphite shaft and it will explode, I had 2 different Diamana WB 73x shafts blow up on me from over heating, the first one the shop f**ked up that I took it to and they replaced it for free, the 2nd one happened over 3 years of pulling and changing driver heads.

 

3) The only argument against adjustable equipment is some people claim they feel worse then the non-adjustable drivers. I am reminded of the 100s of comments on forums I have read about the Adams Speedline 9064LS DFS vs the non-DFS... Everyone claimed the DFS felt terrible compared to the non-DFS.

--> I do know that some aftermarket shaft companies recommend tipping the shaft 1/4" to 1/2" when they are installed into adjustable drivers to get the full flex from the shaft. A lot of epoxy drivers will have a bore depth of 1 1/4th to 1 3/8 inches so if the adjustable sleeve is different it can change the tip reaction slightly.

Callaway Epic Max 12.0 (-1/N) @ 44.50" w/ Graphite Design Tour AD IZ-7 Stiff

Callaway Epic Speed 18.0* @ 42.75" w/ Graphite Design Tour AD IZ-8 Stiff

Callaway Mavrik Pro 23.0* @ 40.00" w/ Graphite Design Tour AD IZ 95 HYB Stiff

Sub-70 639 Combo (5-P) w/ Nippon Modus 3 125 Stiff, Standard Length, Weak Lofts (27-47, 4* gaps)

Callaway MD5 Raw 51-11 S-Grind w/ Nippon Modus 125 Wedge

Callaway MD5 Raw 55-13 X-Grind w/ Nippon Modus 125 Wedge

Callaway MD5 Raw 59-11 S-Grind w/ Nippon Modus 125 Wedge

Callaway MD5 Raw 63-09 C-Grind w/ Nippon Modus 125 Wedge

Golf Swing & Putting -- Bruce Rearick (Burnt Edges Consulting)

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The most glaring example for me in the difference in feel between a one-piece vs. adjustable was my experience with the Adams 9064LS vs. the 9064LS w/DFS(adjustable)...Difference in feel was noticable, so much so that I bought the DFS one day, hit it then played it, then traded it back the next...Granted, that was Adams first experience with Adjustability in a driver, however it was a weak introduction, IMHO...

 

I think I mentioned the 9064LS / 9064LS DFS in my post just above yours lol. I saw a DFS at golf smith in the used section the hosel and adjustable parts looked different then the newer models out now. I would have to take one apart to really get a good idea of what got changed. I know the first tip that they sent out in the Adams Fast 12 LS a lot of big hitters were actually breaking the tips off, As I have a picture in my original USPG Black Ops review of the two different tips. I can't notice a feel difference between the old sleeve and the new sleeve personally. Though I never had the experience in hitting the DFS 9064 only the non-DFS, I have to go by what people claim they feel not what I have felt.

 

Like I was saying before the feel might be in the shaft installation, a lot of aftermarket shaft companies test their shafts with a given head weight (say 200g) and a given bore depth of the hosel being 1 1/4th to 1 3/8 inches. IF the shaft and head weight doesn't match the specs they used it will perform slightly differently. Then what they spec on their websites etc. I personally don't notice a change in the feel of adjustable drivers versus non-adjustable when the installation is done properly.

Callaway Epic Max 12.0 (-1/N) @ 44.50" w/ Graphite Design Tour AD IZ-7 Stiff

Callaway Epic Speed 18.0* @ 42.75" w/ Graphite Design Tour AD IZ-8 Stiff

Callaway Mavrik Pro 23.0* @ 40.00" w/ Graphite Design Tour AD IZ 95 HYB Stiff

Sub-70 639 Combo (5-P) w/ Nippon Modus 3 125 Stiff, Standard Length, Weak Lofts (27-47, 4* gaps)

Callaway MD5 Raw 51-11 S-Grind w/ Nippon Modus 125 Wedge

Callaway MD5 Raw 55-13 X-Grind w/ Nippon Modus 125 Wedge

Callaway MD5 Raw 59-11 S-Grind w/ Nippon Modus 125 Wedge

Callaway MD5 Raw 63-09 C-Grind w/ Nippon Modus 125 Wedge

Golf Swing & Putting -- Bruce Rearick (Burnt Edges Consulting)

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I think it's been said before in this forum, but it seems to me the biggest benefit of adjustable drivers is to the manufacturer -- it simplifies their customization process, leaving much of it up to the retailer. Way fewer sku's to build, ship, etc... For many golfers, however, it winds up being just a toy. Like I said, after fiddling and diddling, and working with my pro, my Titleist is set to A1- factory neutral.

 

What's in the bag:
 
Driver:  :titelist-small:TSR3; :wilson_staff_small: DynaPWR Carbon
FW Wood: :wilson_staff_small: DynaPWR 3-wood; :titleist-small: TSR 2+
Hybrids:  PXG Gen4 18-degree
Utility Irons: :srixon-small: ZX MkII 20* 
Irons:;  :Sub70:699/699 Pro V2 Combo; :wilson_staff_small: D9 Forged;  :macgregor-small:MT86 (coming soon!); :macgregor-small: VIP 1025 V-Foil MB/CB; 

Wedges:  :cleveland-small: RTX6 Zipcore
Putter: :cleveland-small: HB Soft Milled 10.5;  :scotty-small: Newport Special Select;  :edel-golf-1:  Willamette,  :bettinardi-small: BB8; :wilson-small: 8802; MATI Monto

Ball: :bridgestone-small: Tour B RXS; :srixon-small: Z-STAR Diamond; :wilson_staff_small: Triad

Stat Tracker/GPS Watch: :ShotScope:


 
Follow @golfspybarbajo

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I think it's been said before in this forum, but it seems to me the biggest benefit of adjustable drivers is to the manufacturer -- it simplifies their customization process, leaving much of it up to the retailer. Way fewer sku's to build, ship, etc... For many golfers, however, it winds up being just a toy. Like I said, after fiddling and diddling, and working with my pro, my Titleist is set to A1- factory neutral.

this

Driver - Ping G430 Max 9° | Ventus Blue TR 
Hybrid - :srixon-small: ZX 16° & 18° | GD Tour IZ S

2 Iron - :srixon-small: ZU65 17° | AeroTech SteelFiber 110icw S

Irons -  :srixon-small: ZX7 MKII  4-Pw | TTDGTI S400, std length  1° flat
Wedges - :cleveland-small: RTX 6 Tour Rack 50° 54° 58° | TTDGTI S400, std length 1° flat

Putter -  L.A.B. Golf Link.1 | LA Golf P135 shaft | Garsen Quad Tour grip
 

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I won't argue the second point - I'm not an engineer and I'm inclined to agree with your thought, however...

 

The idea that changing the face angle a couple of degrees won't change ball flight? Really?

 

I usually suggest to people that the value of adjustability is that you can have a driver that makes the game more fun now and also something you can grow with. No reason you can't set it to maximum left on the course to help dial back a slice and then square at the range to try to fix your swing.

Im not convinced that the average person is consistent enough to where even a few degrees makes much of a difference. IMO, its just the latest gimmick to get people to buy a new driver.

Even setting it maximum left isnt going to fix your slice because even with a closed clubface a person will still slice if they are coming over the top or cutting across the ball.

Im not a believer that there is a quick fix in golf. There is only proper instruction and hard work.

"I suppose its better to be a master of 7 than to be vaguely familiar with 14." - Chick Evans

Whats in my Sun Mountain 2.5+ stand bag?

Woods: Tommy Armour Atomic 10.5* 

Hybrid: Mizuno MP Fli-Hi 3H

Irons: Mizuno T-Zoid True 5, 7 and 9-irons

Wedge: Mizuno S18 54* and Top Flite chipper

Putter: Mizuno Bettinardi A-02

Ball: Maxfli Tour X

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I think it's been said before in this forum, but it seems to me the biggest benefit of adjustable drivers is to the manufacturer -- it simplifies their customization process, leaving much of it up to the retailer. Way fewer sku's to build, ship, etc... For many golfers, however, it winds up being just a toy. Like I said, after fiddling and diddling, and working with my pro, my Titleist is set to A1- factory neutral.

Id agree with this. Im not convinced that it does much to improve the average golfers game but it DOES make it much easier for the manufacturers and makes it much easier to customize a club.

"I suppose its better to be a master of 7 than to be vaguely familiar with 14." - Chick Evans

Whats in my Sun Mountain 2.5+ stand bag?

Woods: Tommy Armour Atomic 10.5* 

Hybrid: Mizuno MP Fli-Hi 3H

Irons: Mizuno T-Zoid True 5, 7 and 9-irons

Wedge: Mizuno S18 54* and Top Flite chipper

Putter: Mizuno Bettinardi A-02

Ball: Maxfli Tour X

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Im not convinced that the average person is consistent enough to where even a few degrees makes much of a difference. IMO, its just the latest gimmick to get people to buy a new driver.

Even setting it maximum left isnt going to fix your slice because even with a closed clubface a person will still slice if they are coming over the top or cutting across the ball.

Im not a believer that there is a quick fix in golf. There is only proper instruction and hard work.

 

There's no question that the average guy is inconsistent: sometimes his clubface is 4 degrees open, sometimes it's 10. Either way, if equipment can turn those numbers into 1 degree and 7 degrees, he's going to be happier.

 

I'm NOT arguing that the equipment is a substitute for a better golf swing, but to say that it can't impact ball flight is simply counter-factual.

Follow me on Twitter: @MattSaternus

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Arrow or Indian? I don't care how good the Indian is if the Arrow is crooked it's much harder for him to shoot straight and if he's always missing right and the arrow turns left he has a better chance of hitting the target.

 

I think that's what Matt was saying - being a preacher I like to use an illustration. :)

 

Sometimes we get so suspicious of OEM's that we forget there will be a point where their best interests and ours intersect. What's wrong with flexibility? It's good for the club maker, seller and purchaser IMO.

 

That doesn't mean an adjustable club is the way everyone should go or a guy with a glued club has the inferior club - It's just that he better be fit spot on the first time and then his swing best not change.

Taylor Made Stealth 2 10.5 Diamana S plus 60  Aldila  R flex   - 42.25 inches 

SMT 4 wood bassara R flex, four wood head, 3 wood shaft

Ping G410 7, 9 wood  Alta 65 R flex

Srixon ZX5 MK II  5-GW - UST recoil Dart 65 R flex

India 52,56 (60 pending)  UST recoil 75's R flex  

Evon roll ER 5 32 inches

It's our offseason so auditioning candidates - looking for that right mix of low spin long, more spin around the greens - TBD   

 

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Im not a believer that there is a quick fix in golf. There is only proper instruction and hard work.

Maybe for some people....sure. But for the vast majority of weekend warriors......the quick fix is just what they want.

 

Besides, the "hard working" folks can still set it to neutral and retain the ability to swap shafts at will.

MENTOR, L4 COACH & TRAINER  FIRST TEE GREATER HOUSTON
HDCP: 8.3  (GHIN: 3143312)
In my bag, April 2023
:titelist-small: TS3 Driver & 4 Wood Hzrdous Smoke Shaft (Stiff Flex)
:titelist-small: TS2 Hybrids  Mitsubishi Tensei Shaft (Stiff Flex)
:mizuno-small:  MP-59 5-PW; KBS Tour (Regular Flex)
:titelist-small: SM8 Wedges

EVNROLL ER2  Putter
SRIXON Z-STAR DIAMOND BALL
Sun Mountain Cart Bag
:Clicgear: 4.0 Push Cart (I'm walking 9 outta 10 rounds!!)

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Arrow or Indian? I don't care how good the Indian is if the Arrow is crooked it's much harder for him to shoot straight and if he's always missing right and the arrow turns left he has a better chance of hitting the target.

 

I think that's what Matt was saying - being a preacher I like to use an illustration. :)

 

 

A very fine illustration, thanks.

 

Bruce said to me once (I'm paraphrasing) that the club has a lot more effect on ball flight then many want to admit. His example: a wedge vs a driver; same player but one goes a lot farther. Obviously it's an extreme example, but you can apply it to all manner of equipment issues: lie, face angle, shaft, etc.

Follow me on Twitter: @MattSaternus

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I am the definition of an average golfer: my swing is not consistant, i have good days and bad days, i draw the ball for a few weeks then i slice it for a week. If i got an adjustable driver i would just be masking the problems going on. There would never be a true fix because average golfers are not consistant enough to take advantage of an open or closed face club. The adjustability should be left to the people who actully can fine tune with out overcorrecting. I also would not recommend buying an adjustable driver, just because you want to have fun with it. If you buy an adjustable driver for the driver itself and not the adjustability then that is fine, but once you start fiddeling with the settings then you start fiddeling with your results, which can be bad.

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I'm going out on a limb here but I believe that most off the rack drivers have a built in draw bias. So there's already a quick fix going on even when the golfer doesn't realize it.

 

Back to something RP and JM were getting at the Adams 9064 Adjustable. I picked up a used one (not really it was adjustable) to have my excaliber shaft installed in. Loved it when I hit it - seemed just like Dogpro's. My club builder called me and said, "Do you realize this thing comes with an extension piece." We decided not to put it on and cut the shaft to 45". I hit it and the sound was the worst thing you ever heard in your life. Did some checking around and found that the extension piece impacts the sound of the club. So I took it back - we put the piece on - it sounded and felt fine - we took another inch off the shaft, added some weight to the head and everything is right with the world.

 

I'm guessing that the new works that Adams has in its current adjustable renditions don't include that extension piece - It was an attempt to give more versitility but it created some unintended consequences.

Taylor Made Stealth 2 10.5 Diamana S plus 60  Aldila  R flex   - 42.25 inches 

SMT 4 wood bassara R flex, four wood head, 3 wood shaft

Ping G410 7, 9 wood  Alta 65 R flex

Srixon ZX5 MK II  5-GW - UST recoil Dart 65 R flex

India 52,56 (60 pending)  UST recoil 75's R flex  

Evon roll ER 5 32 inches

It's our offseason so auditioning candidates - looking for that right mix of low spin long, more spin around the greens - TBD   

 

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I think it's been said before in this forum, but it seems to me the biggest benefit of adjustable drivers is to the manufacturer -- it simplifies their customization process, leaving much of it up to the retailer. Way fewer sku's to build, ship, etc... For many golfers, however, it winds up being just a toy. Like I said, after fiddling and diddling, and working with my pro, my Titleist is set to A1- factory neutral.

 

I think along this logic it benefits everyone. The problem is with the people who buy an adjustable driver and don't bother get fit. With these kind of drivers, they can offer far more shafts which, after length, is the first thing that needs to be custom fitted to a golfer. All the face/loft stuff is just minor tweaking at the end.

 

That said, don't forget about being able to change lie angles too, which is huge for fairway woods and hybrids. Before the adjustable stuff, you were pretty much stuck with stock (unless you bought a Wishon of course).

 

I am the definition of an average golfer: my swing is not consistant, i have good days and bad days, i draw the ball for a few weeks then i slice it for a week. If i got an adjustable driver i would just be masking the problems going on. There would never be a true fix because average golfers are not consistant enough to take advantage of an open or closed face club. The adjustability should be left to the people who actully can fine tune with out overcorrecting. I also would not recommend buying an adjustable driver, just because you want to have fun with it. If you buy an adjustable driver for the driver itself and not the adjustability then that is fine, but once you start fiddeling with the settings then you start fiddeling with your results, which can be bad.

 

I'd be curious if a 10 handicapper can really be considered an average golfer :)

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Well the point of the post was not necesariy about me personally i was just using the term "average" and the good days and bad days and slicing and drawing to try to prove a point that fine tuning is not a fix to a swing problem. I think you focused to much on the "me" part of it and less on my arguments for not getting adjustable drivers.

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There's no question that the average guy is inconsistent: sometimes his clubface is 4 degrees open, sometimes it's 10. Either way, if equipment can turn those numbers into 1 degree and 7 degrees, he's going to be happier.

 

I'm NOT arguing that the equipment is a substitute for a better golf swing, but to say that it can't impact ball flight is simply counter-factual.

Im not saying that it cant impact ball flight. An adjustable driver isnt going to make huge changes on your ballflight though. It wont turn a slice into a draw. Can you fine-tune your ball flight? Sure. Will it fix glaring swing flaws? Nope. An over the top swing is still going to cause a slice even with the driver set to maximum closed.

"I suppose its better to be a master of 7 than to be vaguely familiar with 14." - Chick Evans

Whats in my Sun Mountain 2.5+ stand bag?

Woods: Tommy Armour Atomic 10.5* 

Hybrid: Mizuno MP Fli-Hi 3H

Irons: Mizuno T-Zoid True 5, 7 and 9-irons

Wedge: Mizuno S18 54* and Top Flite chipper

Putter: Mizuno Bettinardi A-02

Ball: Maxfli Tour X

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