Wedge Electro-etching project

[azstu324]

So I fell down another rabbit hole.. again 

I bumped into some tutorials about electro etching using a series of 9V batteries, an electrolyte solution, and vinyl stencils. 

I think this is a really cool alternative to stamping.

My other wedge is in a box on it's way to Florida for a review. When I get it back, I'll complete the project and etch "Vincent" down the hosel and "Royale with cheese" on the back side. 

I may even take things 1 step further and etch "The Wolf" on my putter. So basically the 2 gangsters and the clean up man  

Edited April 24 by azstu324

[Michael.Sandoval33]

"No, they got the metric system there. They wouldn't know what the .... a Quarter Pounder is." Stu!

Very nice man

[downlowkey]

8 minutes ago, azstu324 said:

I bumped into some tutorials about electro etching using a series of 9V batteries, an electrolyte solution, and vinyl stencils.

Check out the big brain on Brad… errr Stu!

Seriously though, I’m impressed.

Look forward to seeing “The Wolf”. But remember, just because you etch a character, doesn’t mean you have character.

[azstu324]

1 minute ago, downlowkey said:

But remember, just because you etch a character, doesn’t mean you have character.

Bahahaha!! That's classic man!

[Shrek74]

7 hours ago, azstu324 said:

So I fell down another rabbit hole.. again 

I bumped into some tutorials about electro etching using a series of 9V batteries, an electrolyte solution, and vinyl stencils. 

I think this is a really cool alternative to stamping.

My other wedge is in a box on it's way to Florida for a review. When I get it back, I'll complete the project and etch "Vincent" down the hosel and "Royale with cheese" on the back side. 

I may even take things 1 step further and etch "The Wolf" on my putter. So basically the 2 gangsters and the clean up man  

Ok, that's awesome!! Can you share the details on how this is done? I'd love to do this to my Maltby builds if I can successfully test it.

[Josh Parker]

7 hours ago, azstu324 said:

So I fell down another rabbit hole.. again 

I bumped into some tutorials about electro etching using a series of 9V batteries, an electrolyte solution, and vinyl stencils. 

I think this is a really cool alternative to stamping.

My other wedge is in a box on it's way to Florida for a review. When I get it back, I'll complete the project and etch "Vincent" down the hosel and "Royale with cheese" on the back side. 

I may even take things 1 step further and etch "The Wolf" on my putter. So basically the 2 gangsters and the clean up man  

That looks awesome!

[ejgaudette]

That looks great and like a fun project. Can't wait to see future work.

[azstu324]

28 minutes ago, Shrek74 said:

Ok, that's awesome!! Can you share the details on how this is done? I'd love to do this to my Maltby builds if I can successfully test it.

So here's one of the videos I found. Most of the videos are more specific to knife making and adding a maker's mark but apply to golf clubs too. 

The most difficult and costly part is coming up with the vinyl printer. My sister has a Cricut machine that I borrowed and it's pretty awesome. 

 

 

 

[Shrek74]

21 minutes ago, azstu324 said:

So here's one of the videos I found. Most of the videos are more specific to knife making and adding a maker's mark but apply to golf clubs too. 

The most difficult and costly part is coming up with the vinyl printer. My sister has a Cricut machine that I borrowed and it's pretty awesome. 

Yup, this is awesome. So I'll be adding a Cricut to my list of "Needs."

[azstu324]

2 minutes ago, Shrek74 said:

Yup, this is awesome. So I'll be adding a Cricut to my list of "Needs."

Ha ha. The things we don't know we need until someone else shows us that we do. 

The model I'm borrowing is called Explore Air 2. There is a model called the "Joy" that seems to be more economical but just as capable. I've found them on my local offer up for around $50 and think they're like $130 new. 

[Shrek74]

3 minutes ago, azstu324 said:

Ha ha. The things we don't know we need until someone else shows us that we do. 

The model I'm borrowing is called Explore Air 2. There is a model called the "Joy" that seems to be more economical but just as capable. I've found them on my local offer up for around $50 and think they're like $130 new. 

Yeah, a new Joy is $150 on sale for Mother's Day. I'll need to check out eBay and other local for sale stuff. I'd prefer it be new if I'm going to get one just to ensure it works perfectly and stuff.

The little quiz to find your perfect Cricut said I needed the Explore 3, but that's if I want to use it for more things. I think the Joy would be just fine for this need and if I want to make labels for my pantry containers and the like.

[Rob Person]

19 hours ago, azstu324 said:

Ha ha. The things we don't know we need until someone else shows us that we do. 

 

Dammit man!  You are so right! 

I follow a few yt /IG persons who do this professionally. And knowing you can do this at home economically is awesome!

Please post a video sometime if you continue down this path!!!

[Josh Parker]

I think I am going to have to try this on an old wedge and see how it works!  

[azstu324]

Ok so this is a very rudimentary explanation of what's needed and the process. The end result on this one is very light and probably not the best place to do it with the grooves. You really want as flat of a surface as you can find.

Here's what you'll need:

Some kind of vinyl stencil maker is optimal but you can also hand cut stencils or scratch a design into some nail polish. I was lucky to get my hands on a Cricut cutting machine which is pretty friggin awesome! 

If you go this route, you'll also need transfer tape to apply the negative to the surface.

 

I forgot to include some high strength cleaner like acetone or isopropyl alcohol. You'll want to thoroughly clean the surface before applying the decal. Remove the transfer tape and make sure the decal is fully applied. Once applied, mask off the surrounding areas to ensure you don't etch anything that you don't want etched. 

SAFETY FIRST!!!

At this point be sure to have a ventilation mask or something to keep from inhaling fumes. There is a bit of noxious gas that is created with the chemical reaction. Nothing crazy but it's there. 

Next you'll mix your electrolyte solution. There is no real scientific measurement but I'd guess 2 parts clean water to 1 part white vinegar, and a bunch of salt. Table salt works fine. For this small application, I probably used 1 tablespoon of salt. Mix thoroughly. 

Now we're going to make the electrode contraption. I found the 3 9v batteries plugged in series worked the best. 

You'll need negative and positive alligator clips with wires long enough to give enough slack to work with. 

Finally, you'll want to make the transfer wand. I just found a 4" wood bolt, wrapped it with duct tape, a cotton face cleansing pad, and a rubber band. You can pretty much use anything that is conducive or made of steel. Nail, screw, or even a cotton swab as the current will pass through the solution when wet. 

Next you will attach the alligator clips. Determine what you want to be + and -. In this case I used red for the positive and Black for the negative. Clip the positive to the battery terminal and run to your steel. The negative will run to the transfer wand. 

Yep.. those are my feet. Deal with it!

Now for the fun but very tedious part.. 

Your ready to start dipping and etching. You'll dip the cotton part of the wand in the electrolyte solution. You'll want a paper towel or 2 handy to damp the cotton so it's not a wet mess. 

Then you'll just lightly press the wand onto the surface and let sit for about 10 seconds at a time. Keep moving the wand around in 10 second intervals as to cover the the entire etched area. Eventually you'll want to see almost a black build up in the etched area. It's really a trial and error to get the right depth on the etch. 

Once you feel like you've etched enough, remove the tape and vinyl.

Now you need to clean off all of the oxidation. I just used dish soap or Barkeeper's friend and a 3M pad. 

Note: this is etching away the top plate layer into the raw steel. You'll either need to add some kind of oil or rust prevention, black oxide, paint, or just understand that it will rust. 

That's it! 

 

Edited April 25 by azstu324

[Northern Monkey]

6 minutes ago, azstu324 said:

Ok so this is a very rudimentary explanation of what's needed and the process. The end result on this one is very light and probably not the best place to do it with the grooves. You really want as flat of a surface as you can find.

Here's what you'll need:

Some kind of vinyl stencil maker is optimal but you can also hand cut stencils or scratch a design into some nail polish. I was lucky to get my hands on a Cricut cutting machine which is pretty friggin awesome! 

If you go this route, you'll also need transfer tape to apply the negative to the surface.

 

I forgot to include some high strength cleaner like acetone or isopropyl alcohol. You'll want to thoroughly clean the surface before applying the decal. Remove the transfer tape and make sure the decal is fully applied. Once applied, mask off the surrounding areas to ensure you don't etch anything that you don't want etched. 

SAFETY FIRST!!!

At this point be sure to have a ventilation mask or something to keep from inhaling fumes. There is a bit of noxious gas that is created with the chemical reaction. Nothing crazy but it's there. 

Next you'll mix your electrolyte solution. There is no real scientific measurement but I'd guess 2 parts clean water to 1 part white vinegar, and a bunch of salt. Table salt works fine. For this small application, I probably used 1 tablespoon of salt. Mix thoroughly. 

Now we're going to make the electrode contraption. I found the 3 9v batteries plugged in series worked the best. 

You'll need negative and positive alligator clips with wires long enough to give enough slack to work with. 

Finally, you'll want to make the transfer wand. I just found a 4" wood bolt, wrapped it with duct tape, a cotton face cleansing pad, and a rubber band. You can pretty much use anything that is conducive or made of steel. Nail, screw, or even a cotton swab as the current will pass through the solution when wet. 

Next you will attach the alligator clips. Determine what you want to be + and -. In this case I used red for the positive and Black for the negative. Clip the positive to the battery terminal and run to your steel. The negative will run to the transfer wand. 

Yep.. those are my feet. Deal with it!

Now for the fun but very tedious part.. 

Your ready to start dipping and etching. You'll dip the cotton part of the wand in the electrolyte solution. You'll want a paper towel or 2 handy to damp the cotton so it's not a wet mess. 

Then you'll just lightly press the wand onto the surface and let sit for about 10 seconds at a time. Keep moving the wand around in 10 second intervals as to cover the the entire etched area. Eventually you'll want to see almost a black build up in the etched area. It's really a trial and error to get the right depth on the etch. 

Once you feel like you've etched enough, remove the tape and vinyl.

Now you need to clean off all of the oxidation. I just used dish soap or Barkeeper's friend and a 3M pad. 

Note: this is etching away the top plate layer into the raw steel. You'll either need to add some kind of oil or rust prevention, black oxide, paint, or just understand that it will rust. 

That's it! 

Awesome job

[Shrek74]

15 minutes ago, azstu324 said:

Ok so this is a very rudimentary explanation of what's needed and the process. The end result on this one is very light and probably not the best place to do it with the grooves. You really want as flat of a surface as you can find.

Here's what you'll need:

Some kind of vinyl stencil maker is optimal but you can also hand cut stencils or scratch a design into some nail polish. I was lucky to get my hands on a Cricut cutting machine which is pretty friggin awesome! 

If you go this route, you'll also need transfer tape to apply the negative to the surface.

 

I forgot to include some high strength cleaner like acetone or isopropyl alcohol. You'll want to thoroughly clean the surface before applying the decal. Remove the transfer tape and make sure the decal is fully applied. Once applied, mask off the surrounding areas to ensure you don't etch anything that you don't want etched. 

SAFETY FIRST!!!

At this point be sure to have a ventilation mask or something to keep from inhaling fumes. There is a bit of noxious gas that is created with the chemical reaction. Nothing crazy but it's there. 

Next you'll mix your electrolyte solution. There is no real scientific measurement but I'd guess 2 parts clean water to 1 part white vinegar, and a bunch of salt. Table salt works fine. For this small application, I probably used 1 tablespoon of salt. Mix thoroughly. 

Now we're going to make the electrode contraption. I found the 3 9v batteries plugged in series worked the best. 

You'll need negative and positive alligator clips with wires long enough to give enough slack to work with. 

Finally, you'll want to make the transfer wand. I just found a 4" wood bolt, wrapped it with duct tape, a cotton face cleansing pad, and a rubber band. You can pretty much use anything that is conducive or made of steel. Nail, screw, or even a cotton swab as the current will pass through the solution when wet. 

Next you will attach the alligator clips. Determine what you want to be + and -. In this case I used red for the positive and Black for the negative. Clip the positive to the battery terminal and run to your steel. The negative will run to the transfer wand. 

Yep.. those are my feet. Deal with it!

Now for the fun but very tedious part.. 

Your ready to start dipping and etching. You'll dip the cotton part of the wand in the electrolyte solution. You'll want a paper towel or 2 handy to damp the cotton so it's not a wet mess. 

Then you'll just lightly press the wand onto the surface and let sit for about 10 seconds at a time. Keep moving the wand around in 10 second intervals as to cover the the entire etched area. Eventually you'll want to see almost a black build up in the etched area. It's really a trial and error to get the right depth on the etch. 

Once you feel like you've etched enough, remove the tape and vinyl.

Now you need to clean off all of the oxidation. I just used dish soap or Barkeeper's friend and a 3M pad. 

Note: this is etching away the top plate layer into the raw steel. You'll either need to add some kind of oil or rust prevention, black oxide, paint, or just understand that it will rust. 

That's it! 

Nicely done! I'd be curious to know how the grooves react now to the ball with that little etching there.  I'm sure it's not PGA legal now, but it's still super cool.

[azstu324]

7 minutes ago, Shrek74 said:

Nicely done! I'd be curious to know how the grooves react now to the ball with that little etching there.  I'm sure it's not PGA legal now, but it's still super cool.

Ha ha yeah this is an old wedge and bound for the trash anyhow. Figured it would be a worthy sacrifice 

[jkimbrell0]

28 minutes ago, azstu324 said:

Ok so this is a very rudimentary explanation of what's needed and the process. The end result on this one is very light and probably not the best place to do it with the grooves. You really want as flat of a surface as you can find.

This is legit! I need to mess around with my old wedges and try this out. Seems pretty straight forward once you have the vinyl 

[BreakfastBall15]

This is awesome! I might have to give it a try! 

[Rob Person]

Awesome!  Can't wait to see what you etch next!

[Northern Monkey]

I’ve gotta give this a try.
I’m trained in forensic auto crimes and we use various techniques to bring back VIN numbers that have been erased on stolen motors. One of these techniques uses electrolysis so I already have all the kit, and some special chemical solutions, to do this. Just need to find a way to make up the stencils

[Rob Person]

4 hours ago, Northern Monkey said:

I’ve gotta give this a try.
I’m trained in forensic auto crimes and we use various techniques to bring back VIN numbers that have been erased on stolen motors. One of these techniques uses electrolysis so I already have all the kit, and some special chemical solutions, to do this. Just need to find a way to make up the stencils

And get the kit away from the work station...  

[azstu324]

4 hours ago, Northern Monkey said:

I’ve gotta give this a try.
I’m trained in forensic auto crimes and we use various techniques to bring back VIN numbers that have been erased on stolen motors. One of these techniques uses electrolysis so I already have all the kit, and some special chemical solutions, to do this. Just need to find a way to make up the stencils

Man did I miss my calling in life . That's sounds pretty awesome !! I'm in banking... . 

[Northern Monkey]

34 minutes ago, Rob Person said:

And get the kit away from the work station...  

I’ve already worked that out. Just bring the clubs into work and do it there

[Rob Person]

14 minutes ago, Northern Monkey said:

I’ve already worked that out. Just bring the clubs into work and do it there

Monkey- sneaks a club in the gear bag, starts preparing the etch

LT- interesting work you're doing, what case is this for?

Monkey- trying to rework an old personal case for a friend. If this works, I can do your clubs too.

[azstu324]

10 minutes ago, Northern Monkey said:

I’ve already worked that out. Just bring the clubs into work and do it there

And if somebody asks, the clubs are part of a very important "investigation" where they were believed to be used to steal a car.. Good luck with that story!

[Shrek74]

25 minutes ago, Rob Person said:

Monkey- sneaks a club in the gear bag, starts preparing the etch

LT- interesting work you're doing, what case is this for?

Monkey- trying to rework an old personal case for a friend. If this works, I can do your clubs too.

20 minutes ago, azstu324 said:

And if somebody asks, the clubs are part of a very important "investigation" where they were believed to be used to steal a car.. Good luck with that story!

I'm just thinking he can call is professional education or job skill enhancement/development.

[Northern Monkey]

7 minutes ago, Shrek74 said:

I'm just thinking he can call is professional education or job skill enhancement/development.

Absolutely! I’m practicing my techniques to ensure the kit all works well

Thankfully though my Inspector is also golf mad so it won’t be an issue