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Chipping from 50 yrds in


Handy
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Thanks shinnman and TitleistMike, definitely going to have to make some notes. I know I have not put more weight on lead foot. I like the idea of practice of swing at 5, 4, and 3 o'clock to know with confidence how far it will go. Will need to do this for tall grass situation and Fairway. I

I assume on a Fairway situation the low projectory would be best, like a bump and run?

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Again, it depends on what you have in front of you.  If in the neck, sure take the shot with the least chance of error.  If trap could cause an issue as pin is tight, then you need a lofty club.

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2 hours ago, Handy said:

Thanks shinnman and TitleistMike, definitely going to have to make some notes. I know I have not put more weight on lead foot. I like the idea of practice of swing at 5, 4, and 3 o'clock to know with confidence how far it will go. Will need to do this for tall grass situation and Fairway. I

I assume on a Fairway situation the low projectory would be best, like a bump and run?

Just keep practicing and playing.  Take lessons too.  I have dropped 6 strokes off my handicap in last year and likely will get it to drop a few more before this year is out.  And if you hit a bad shot, use the Ted Lasso adage of be a goldfish.

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Driver: Cobra LTDx 9*

Apex UW 17* and 21*

5H Callaway BB21

6-PW Callaway Rogue ST Max Elevate 85 shafts

Wedges:  Cleveland CBX zipcore 46*, 50*, 54*, CBX2 58*

Putter: Odyssey Stroke Lab Ten

Ball:  Callaway Chrome Soft X or OnCore Elixir

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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I practice chipping some with my 60º and my 9i, but 90% of the time I practice with my GW. And most of the time actually playing I use my GW because it's the most dialed in for distance for me, because that's what I practice with most. I do find myself coming up short some days for whatever reason, and I just switch to my 9i for the rest of the round those days, and tell myself it's still my GW. I'm just dumb enough to believe it, and it works for me...

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There are lots of good advice here. 
 

Im now a firm believer in 1 wedge for all pitch and chips.  Like anything practice is key. I picked up a Cleveland Zipcore 50* full face wedge and use it for everything including sand traps.  I have always considered wedge play to be my saving grace and since going this route it’s even better. I simply adjust face angle, ball placement, and swing length for the type of shot I need to hit. 

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On 6/22/2022 at 12:51 PM, Handy said:

Thanks Golff2much for the details of how you do it. Also thanks cnosil for the link to a video on different ways to low or high. Per that instructions I think I might be putting to much motion and swing into my attempts.

 

I failed to mention in my first post that the course I play most on due to being on a league, has the grass fairly long like 3-4 inches around the greens except for a narrow front approach. So I fight that grass high % of time.

I think we all missed the part about the rough and his struggles with it much of the time.

Handy, that would indicate that you need to work on pitching the ball with a more lofted wedge from that distance instead of trying to hit a bump and run or chip type of shot.  Regardless of the method you like (I'm sure these videos have given you every possible way) you need to find time/place to practice pitching and chipping.  Lots of different methods will work if you will spend some time practicing.

Good luck.

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At fifty yards I am normally pitching with my pitching wedge.  A nice smooth swing.  We have a lot of false fronts.  I practice those shots a bit every morning before I tee off.  Never know when I will need it.  It is all about the lay of the land and how the ball is going to react to the landing area.  Could be a chip and could be a pitch.  Go with whatever that little devil in that six inches between my ears say to hit.  Call it luck if you want, preparation meeting opportunity.  

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to Handy:

all the replies are good advice.

the fundamentals of grip and wieght/stance apply to most situations.  (except severe uphill or downhill lies;

where you need to your shoulders parallel the slope - or attempt to)  

experience and imagination are factors.

1)  you say you are always short.   if you have a lot of green to work with, try the first tip - use 8i or even 7i rather than 9i.  also read the green and adjust for slopes.

2)  chipping is an acquired skill.     must practice/experiment various methods and clubs (lofts). 

there is NO one foolproof way.    use your imagination to decide if bump and run is preferable to shorter releases with higher trajectory.   

choose what gives you the most confidence.

 

 

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For 50 yards in there are two common methods. The hinge where you break your wrists and the no wrist.  There are advantages to both.  If you leave most short can try no hinge.  From rough you should open face slightly as easier to get through grass.  That alone with same stroke will make it go farther.  These shots need to be practiced.  The best in the world spend as much time on these as full swing shots. 

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... This thread is a good example of not only how difficult golf can be, but also how you can achieve a goal in many different ways. I found with most of my students they tended to be more comfortable with one method over another. You can chip effectively with the ball back in the stance, weight forward and make a descending blow to the back of the ball with a stiff or hinged wrist. You can also chip effectively with a more neutral stance, ball in the middle or slightly forward and brushing the grass, basically picking it off the surface using the bounce or the leading edge just underneath the ball. The only way to find out what works best for you is practice and experimenting. If you can find a friend to practice with you, find a green and take turns placing the ball in different spots and whoever gets up and down with the least strokes wins. Makes practice fun. 

... I would add where you are playin can make a huge difference. On lush bent grass courses it is advantageous to hit shots a little fat because the club glides through the grass producing excellent results with a large margin for error. On hard, tight bermuda courses with heavy grain that same shot is a disaster and can stop the club from even getting through the turf slamming on the brakes with no margin for error. Mickelson did an interview during a practice round and said when faced with that type of lie, he uses less loft and bump and runs the shot. 

 


 

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I’m a big fan of multiple clubs and techniques. The Dave Pelz Clock system with 4 wedges with 4 backswing positions gives  me 16 known distances 12 yards between them. I e pay particular attention to the angle of the shaft address. I can play the ball forward with a vertical shaft and take 6 yards off. Play it back and try it and gain 6 yards.  When I have blade irons, like now, I will expand this to 8 & 9 iron. Today, twice I had 95 yards to the pin and chose to do a waist high 9 iron chip that hopped and stopped. I pulled the first one 15’ left and the next 5’ left but was hole high. Sadly, I missed both putts and coincidentally I finished in second place by 1 stroke. 
 

inside 30 yards I go to a system called “The Rule of 12”. This is the carry/roll ratio. I often walk by the flag on my way to the ball and pace off the distance. Let’s say there was 24 paces to the ball and 8 paces to the green. 24/8 is 3. 12-3 is 9. So a 9 iron will give me the correct carry/roll ratio. 24 paces with 6 paces of carry is an 8 iron. I read the last 16 paces like a putt and pick my spot and and try to land the ball on that spot. The same distance but not much green say 24 paces but 16 paces will be a 54° wedge. This only works with traditional irons without the hot faces and jacked up lofts. But all you have to do is experiment with any irons. I gamed i500’s for a while but didn’t like the fact that the ball seemed to shoot off the face. 
 

I just got Mizuno ES21 54 and 60 wedges. These are awesome. Most wedges are hosel heavy which assists in closing the face. These are face balanced and fly straighter for me. Consequently, I have been using them almost exclusively the last 2 weeks. I just take my putter and 54° usually and still pace it off, but pick a spot 2/3rds of the way there. The jury is still out on if this is better in the long term but I’ve had great results with this. But only been doing it for 4 rounds. 
 

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On 6/23/2022 at 7:36 PM, blackngold_blood said:

There are lots of good advice here. 
 

Im now a firm believer in 1 wedge for all pitch and chips.  Like anything practice is key. I picked up a Cleveland Zipcore 50* full face wedge and use it for everything including sand traps.  I have always considered wedge play to be my saving grace and since going this route it’s even better. I simply adjust face angle, ball placement, and swing length for the type of shot I need to hit. 

I am totally the opposite of that method, using everything from a 6 or 7 iron to my 54 and 58 degree wedges for chips and pitches. For me, it all depends on how far I want the ball to carry vs how much roll-out I want to get after it lands, plus the type of lie I have.
 

In green side bunkers, I use anything from my PW to the 58 degree wedge, depending upon whether I am short-sided or have a tall lip on the bunker (open the face on the 58* wedge) or if there is a low lip on the bunker and a desired roll-out of 40 feet or more (chip shot out of the bunker with my 44* blade-style PW).

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53 minutes ago, funkyjudge said:

I am totally the opposite of that method, using everything from a 6 or 7 iron to my 54 and 58 degree wedges for chips and pitches. For me, it all depends on how far I want the ball to carry vs how much roll-out I want to get after it lands, plus the type of lie I have.
 

In green side bunkers, I use anything from my PW to the 58 degree wedge, depending upon whether I am short-sided or have a tall lip on the bunker (open the face on the 58* wedge) or if there is a low lip on the bunker and a desired roll-out of 40 feet or more (chip shot out of the bunker with my 44* blade-style PW).

Hopefully this thread is showing the OP that there is no one way to hit shots in this game and score well.  Pick a way that suits your game and practice it. Also having confide in knowing you will pull off the shot you are trying to hit is a big factor as well

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Driver:    PXG Gen2 0811x 10.5* set to small + with a VA Composites Nemesys 55s @ 44.75"

Fairway:  :srixon-small: F85 5 wood with a UST Elements Chrome 7F5 @ 41.5"

Irons: Testing the Titleist T200 irons 4-W2 with Project X LZ 5.5 shaft -1/2" and 1* Up

Wedge: Titleist SM7 56* with Project X LZ 5.0 shaft

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Update on my chipping. While I am still a long ways from being a pro, I am making progress with having more successful chips than not. This because of the many helpful tips and links to vedios that were posted on this forum. I need to continue practicing and learn how to swing with different clubs from different lies but I am starting to get some confidence as to how to attempt different situations.

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I'm with @blackngold_blood on using one club for most all short shots around the green, except I use my 60º high bounce wedge... even from tight lies.  As you read these replies, you notice there are many ways to play these approach shots.

I used to be terrible from any distance.  My first instructor wanted me to use the method several have stated above; multiple clubs depending on amount of fly vs roll.  While that certainly works for a lot of people, it didn't work for me.  My instructor defined a chip as any shot where the hands lead the club head through the strike and the lead wrist did not break though the shot... typical of a bump and run shot.  He was a good pro (missed a spot in US Open qualifying during a playoff) and he could use that shot from 50 yards out.  He defined a pitch shot as a miniature full swing where there is a full release of the club.  My issue was that I couldn't do both; no matter how much I practiced, I always let the club head pass my hands.  I can do a chip if I'm very close to the green and don't have to put much energy into the strike.

The lie of the ball, the speed of the greens, and type of grass also dictate what type of shot to use and the club I choose.  I play the ball forward in my stance and use the bounce of my wedge to keep from the leading edge from digging.  With practice I can judge the amount of backswing and followthrough with my 60º needed to fly the ball to a spot on the green that I know will allow the ball to roll out a predictable distance.  I can fly the ball high, medium and low to hit whatever spot on the green I choose.  I find practicing those different shots quite fun.  On our greens that technique with any club longer than gap wedge will likely be off the back of the green.  I will sometimes use my 54º wedge from the rough and use a bunker-like shot.  

Experiment with the many techniques for these shots and find which works best for you.  Don't fight a technique because that's what someone says you should do.  There are many ways to get the ball on the green and close to the hole.

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So the goal is to hit the right yardage. More often than not that means hitting the right carry distance. 

Now I didn't hear you say you struggle with strike consistency, but I'll bet you do. The best way to get solid contact is to make sure you turn through impact and keep your head the same height. You should be able to brush the ground for a solid 7 inches to maximize your chance of solid contact. 

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Regardless of actual technique, how many stock shots do you have at say 100yds and less. Stock meaning there is little guess work, you step up, normal club, a normal swing and hit your number? 

All of the clock systems and different clubs are trying to give you more stock shots. You can get as complex or as simple as you want, but I'd suggest starting with a few known stock shots and then expand from there. 

For instance, I know my full and waist high distances for pw, 50, 54 and 58. There is over lap there between clubs. If I have 80 yds, that is roughly a full 58 for me with all carry, or I can waist high my 54 for 75 with 95% carry and a titch of rollout. I'm confident in those distances and swings because I've hit them hundreds of times in practice.

I can see the appeal of the clock system, but this is my simplified version and it works for me. Get a solid stock, go-to shot or 3 in your repertoire, and expand as needed from there. 

Take this with an 11 cap's worth of salt. 

 

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Just like bunker shots many people will slow their swing down or end it at contact. 50 yard shots aren't full shots but require enough energy transfer which will make the difference between it going 30 and 40 yard and the your desired 50 yards. Taking a bigger back swing will only make you think it is to much swing and cause you to slow your swing down even more OR hit the ball flush and have it fly passed the intended distance. 

For me I don't use the clock system on pitch shots. I have a feel of how far I take the club back but my tempo, down swing and finish I try and keep the same. 

90 yard shots my hands on my back swing feel that they are at my ear

80 yard shots my hands feel they are slightly below my ear or at my neck

70 yard shots my hands feel that they are even with my shoulders

60 yard shots my hands feel that they are even with my chest/pecks

50 yards I feel they are even with my rib cage 

30-40 is hip high or I just bump and run it.

Now granted these are my feels and if you took a video/photo of me my hands may be way off of where I think they are but this is how I gauge my distances. 

My biggest concern since the body for the most part is stagnate like many have said with the weight on the front foot and narrow stance etc... is that I try and hit the ball clean on the bottom grooves of the club face so the ball can check and not roll out on me. I try and finish all my swing with my hands high this prevent me shot hitting the ball and let me hit through the ball.

 

Surprise Surprise…  it will take you a couple range session to figure it out but there are drills you can do to figure it out. Many people think you have to hit to a target at the range but you can do a ladder drill. Tag a spot on the range and hit 30-40 yards shots then 50,60,70,80,90 granted you will be guessing the exact yardage but this is about building your feel.

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Some great suggestions TexasFullsend and Freemars on setting up a system and learn on range how each swing alignment with head /chest /waist and with different clubs at those positions play out. 

Agwinup you are right about consistently hitting the ball, but I think now it was because of how my stance and not putting weight on leading foot. Also as what TexasFullsend said I would have a tendency to slow my swing down especially on say 5 - 10 yrd chips being afraid of scalding the ball across the green and having to chip back on from the other side. That usually ended up with a chunk. 

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26 minutes ago, Handy said:

Some great suggestions TexasFullsend and Freemars on setting up a system and learn on range how each swing alignment with head /chest /waist and with different clubs at those positions play out. 

Agwinup you are right about consistently hitting the ball, but I think now it was because of how my stance and not putting weight on leading foot. Also as what TexasFullsend said I would have a tendency to slow my swing down especially on say 5 - 10 yrd chips being afraid of scalding the ball across the green and having to chip back on from the other side. That usually ended up with a chunk. 

Pick a yardage, say that 10 yard shot.  How would you toss a ball underhanded to hit your spot on the green?  Feel the tempo of tossing the ball that yardage and finish with weight forward and arm over your lead foot.  The body must rotate to do that. 

It's the same motion with a club; the yardage dictates the amount of backswing, then let the weight of the club do most of the work in the downswing, and followthrough... just like the hand tossed ball.

Practice. Practice. Practice.

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