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FAKE (vs) REAL - INSIDE DRIVER HEAD

#1 User is online   MyGolfSpy 

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Posted 16 May 2011 - 05:26 PM

Inside the head of a R9 counterfeit driver and a real Taylormade R9 driver.

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#2 User is online   Moecat 

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Posted 16 May 2011 - 06:04 PM

Unfortunately one wouldn't be able to see the counterfeit's lack of ICT or the sloppy welding without actually cutting it open like that.
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#3 User is offline   skihippy 

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Posted 16 May 2011 - 11:08 PM

WOW that is some horrible craftsmanship... Glad I had the real thing from TGW. And there are many other ways to tell if it is a fake. Color scheme and graphic size is the easiest way to tell.

#4 User is offline   TWshoot67 

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Posted 16 May 2011 - 11:25 PM

As soon as you hit the ball there should be a noticeable difference if you had both in hand! WOW look at that thing! It looks like it wouldn't last the day!
The Bag:
TM Superfast 2.0 V1Txxxxx + 9.5 w/ Aldila White RIP Beta S
TM R11 14* Tour w/ Matrix Code 8 Lime Metalic
TM R7 17.5 HFS w/ Matrix Ozik Code 8
Cobra mb's 4-pw w/ KBS C-Tapers S
Titleist Vokey Proto's
52*,54*,56*,58*
Scotty Cameron Newport 2 GSS
Pro V1 X or TM Penta

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#5 User is offline   harrison101 

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Posted 16 May 2011 - 11:44 PM

well that's shocking to see the differences

#6 User is offline   GolfSpy Tim 

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Posted 18 May 2011 - 12:30 AM

wow... never really thought about how the insides would differ, but that's pretty extreme.

has anyone here hit a knock off and then the real deal on any clubs? was it immediately noticeable, or wold you really need to hit one then the other to notice?
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#7 User is offline   The GreekGrind 

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Posted 18 May 2011 - 12:39 AM

This thread reminds me of another excellent thread MGS gave us a few years ago. A blast from the past, but the advice is timeless.

http://www.mygolfspy...eit-golf-clubs/
Exitus acta probat.
Bona fide.

#8 User is offline   wdgolf 

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Posted 19 May 2011 - 01:57 PM

Do you think the same applies to component club manufacturers? I've grown to love my clubs more than my previous TM burner driver/fairway, but I wonder if using shoddy welding/materials is one way component manufacturers keep down their price. I'm hoping it's not the case...
Driver: Acer XF Leggera 9.5* with True Ace Deathstick R shaft, Winn Lite Grip
3-wood: Acer XF 15* Wood with True Ace Cadence Orange 65 S shaft, Karma Overwrap Grip
3&4 Hybrids: Acer XF Hybrid 19* and 22* with Apollo Shadow Graphite S shaft, Karakal Power-V Wrap Grip
5-PW Irons: Dynacraft Prophet Forged CNC Irons with Apollo Phantom S shaft, Karakal Power-V Grip
Wedges: Dynacraft DMC Forged 52*, 56*, and 60* with Apollo Phantom S shaft, Karma Overwrap Grip
Putter: Dynacraft Hindsight with Apollo Ivory Steel R shaft, Winn JumboLITE Grip
Ball: MG Tour C4
Ogio Sultan Cart Bag, Clicgear 2.0 Cart, Leupold GX1 Rangefinder, Orange Whip

#9 User is offline   Shambles 

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Posted 20 May 2011 - 01:18 PM

The parts look so much alike, even to weight and structural distribution, that the only difference appears to be poor workmanship at assembly.


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#10 User is offline   fozcycle 

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Posted 08 July 2011 - 08:04 PM

Definitely the sweet spot is smaller......way smaller.
Driver: Powerbilt Air Force One WMD 10.5 degree Nitrogen charged w/Fujikura regular shaft
Driver backup: Cobra S2 w/Fujikura Fit-On Max regular shaft
Fairway: Powerbilt AFO Air Foil 3 & 5 Wood
Hybrids: Powerbilt AFO 3 & 4 Hybrid, Nitrogen charged
Irons: Callaway X-24 Hot 5-PW with graphite shafts
Irons backup: Powerbilt AFO Air Foil Nitrogen charged Hollow 4-PW
Wedges: Callaway X-24 Hot Gap & Sand Wedge
Putter: Slotline SSi-693
Bag: Kentucky Letterman Club II Cooler Cart Bag from Team Effort
Balls: Maxfli Tour LC & Vision(X3, WB, BoB)
Glove: Bionic
GPS: iGolf Neo+

#11 User is offline   lowjeep 

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Posted 15 July 2011 - 06:05 PM

That is a cool look at fake products.
Callaway FT-5 Tour Draw 10.5*
Powerbilt AirForceOne N7 3w
Wilson Ultra 5w
TE Bazooka JMAX QL 3h & 4h
Acer XF 5-sw
Wilson Dyna-Balance 407 putter

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