Value of Wedges

[Jbmullin]

Looking at a lot of posts and folks signature lines , most on here have multiple wedges in their bag everywhere from 52 to 68 degrees. googling "how many wedges do I need" did not help as according to bob vokey 4,  but he might be a little biased.  

 

I have two , my PW and UW that came with my set , like most areas of my game there is room for improvement and I have looked at some wedges (ping glide 2.0 and Callaway) and that lead me to this question.

 

What do you feel is missing ( if anything ) by not carrying 2-3 wedges ? Why do you carry multiple wedges? (I deleted this post about 3 times now and finally lack of good info on google and curiosity got the better of me)
 

[THEZIPR23]

I have been carrying 4 for 20 years. It keeps my gaping uniform and allows me to have more full swings when the scoring clubs come into play. 

[cnosil]

Wedges are generally your scoring clubs as the typically cover the 125 and in distances.

 

While you can be effective with one wedge people often hit better with a full swing than a partial swing. Having multiple wedges enables you to do this.

 

Some people utilize there wedges bounce to help with partial swings and differing conditions.

 

Look at how you use your wedges and work to fill distance gaps or scoring areas where you struggle. . Think about if you will make full swings with them or just partial swings. Most people carry PW, Gap, sand, and lob. I will do a full swing with all my wedges others will only hit through PW or Gap with a full swing. Some people use all their clubs to chip and pitch while others will use only one club.

[MGoBlue100]

As with TheZip: gaps in yardage on full shots. I carry a 58 primarily for greenside bunker and deep rough around the greens. I could delete that if I absolutely needed to.

 

 

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[tommc23]

Looking at a lot of posts and folks signature lines , most on here have multiple wedges in their bag everywhere from 52 to 68 degrees. googling "how many wedges do I need" did not help as according to bob vokey 4, but he might be a little biased.

 

I have two , my PW and UW that came with my set , like most areas of my game there is room for improvement and I have looked at some wedges (ping glide 2.0 and Callaway) and that lead me to this question.

 

What do you feel is missing ( if anything ) by not carrying 2-3 wedges ? Why do you carry multiple wedges? (I deleted this post about 3 times now and finally lack of good info on google and curiosity got the better of me)

 

I carry PW, AW, 52 bent to 51, 56 and 60. I use the 60 all over the green and up to 70 yards. My 56 is my 70 to 90(can push it to 105), and my aw goes up to 110. I play all my wedges different distances and spins with how high or hard I hit them. I'm playing Hogan wedges and love them you can read the review I did on them this summer.

everyone has different opinions on their wedges and the gaping needed or desired but a lot of people play wedges below the PW.

 

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[GB13]

I play 45, 49, 53, and 58.

45 is full swings for about 130

49 is full swings and low bump and runs for about 120

52 is full swings (110 yards), chip shots, chop outs, and longer pitches (20 yards across the green)

58 is for full swings (90 yards), bunker shots, high soft flops, and short pitches.

[Kenny B]

My Bridgestone JGR iron set has a P1 and P2 wedge, actually a 9i and PW.  I also carry a Gap wedge, SW, and LW.  As @cnosil said, some use full swings for all wedges, others don't.  That's me.  My SW is a Callaway Sure Out 58º that I only use out of greenside bunkers and rough.  It's the only club that I can use to reliably get out of bunkers.  My LW is a SCOR and also 58º that I use for any other shot around the green.  I can cover any distance up to my set's PW with these wedges.  

 

For the OP question...  What would I be missing if I only carried a PW and UW?  Basically, my whole short game.  The turf at my course is very firm, as are the greens.  There is no one-hop and stop shot on my greens, at least for me.  I use the LW for nearly all shots; the ball will spin and check a little, but then rolls out.  I also use trajectory of the LW to help stop shots.  I could not get close to the pin with the lofts of PW and UW.

[NiftyNiblick]

For many player's, it partially comes down to the loft of their nine-irons.

After that, it's just a matter of whether a high-loft lob wedge fits your game or not.

 

Since a modern 9-iron is usually a shorter version of a 1960 7-iron, most players need far more wedges than they might have needed fifty years ago.

 

If my attempt at coming back to golf after injury had been successful, I'd have probably still needed only two wedges with the set I'm looking at now.

[Har in the Hat]

great question Jb.

I subscribe to the clock methodology in the backswing to get varying distances. swinging back to 7 o clock,9 o clock and 10 o clock with the different wedges (52/56/60) to get me from 40 yards to 110.

 

another methodology is to vary swing speed and open club face or close it more. I prefer the clock method.

 

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[chemclub]

Not too much to add here in terms of description but I can give you more examples.

 

All comes down to the loft of your PW - mine is 46, so I have a 50, 55, 60 to finish off my set. These wedges allow for full swings 130 - 90 yards out. 

 

I use my 50,55,60 for all manner of shots around the green (55 most often).

 

Will likely bend the last 2 to 54 and 58 since I find my 60 might be too much loft sometimes.

[Kanoito]

+1 to the clock methodology.

The new wedges have been money for me and my scrambling has gone up incredibly.

[NiftyNiblick]

The "clock" method, also called the "matrix" method, is outstanding for people who practice and play a lot.

 

You have three yardages for each wedge...

times, say, four wedges....

and it's mechanical.

 

Your caddy or GPS gives you a number, and you know instantly which wedge and which length swing that you're going to use.

 

But you better practice and play a lot to remember all of that.

 

Otherwise, you're better off using "the Force" to make your decision---like most of us.

[GB13]

great question Jb.

I subscribe to the clock methodology in the backswing to get varying distances. swinging back to 7 o clock,9 o clock and 10 o clock with the different wedges (52/56/60) to get me from 40 yards to 110.

 

another methodology is to vary swing speed and open club face or close it more. I prefer the clock method.

 

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I acutually use a different methodology. If I were 40 yards out with an open window to run it up the green, I will take an 8 iron hit a low runner maybe 10 feet off the ground. I would carry it 20 yards and run it the next 20. This method works very well for me.

 

If I have to carry a bunker or a ridge or hit a more presice landing spot, I will take a 52° and open it up and hit a chop shot. I just swing across the ball and hit a high shot that stops on a dime.

 

This way I have shots for all situations. I tried the clock method, but couldn't get the ball high enough for it to work well for me.

[NiftyNiblick]

GB13 makes an excellent observation.

 

The shots that you choose to play are a big factor in approach and equipment alike.

I looked to lob everything right at the hole as is I were playing basketball. 

That's totally different from either bump and run OR clock/matrix.

 

GB13's  "chop shot,"  taught to me as a "cut lob" decades ago, was my "go to" shot from a myriad of distances and situations.   It's very "feel" driven, thus "the Force."

[cksurfdude]

Looking at a lot of posts and folks signature lines , most on here have multiple wedges in their bag everywhere from 52 to 68 degrees. googling "how many wedges do I need" did not help as according to bob vokey 4, but he might be a little biased.

 

I have two , my PW and UW that came with my set , like most areas of my game there is room for improvement and I have looked at some wedges (ping glide 2.0 and Callaway) and that lead me to this question.

 

What do you feel is missing ( if anything ) by not carrying 2-3 wedges ? Why do you carry multiple wedges? (I deleted this post about 3 times now and finally lack of good info on google and curiosity got the better of me)

 

The underlying premise, as others have already said .. and specifics of short game techniques aside, is that more wedges give you more options on any particular shot.

 

Yeah, old school using one or two wedges to hit all the variety of short game shots can work, but... It's nice to have options!

[hckymeyer]

@Jbmullin If I read your signature correctly you are carrying 11 clubs (assuming irons are 4i-UW).  That leaves you 3 extra clubs that you could add in to the bag.  

 

If you think about how many strokes you take from outside 150yds, vs how many strokes you take from inside 150yd I'm guessing it's a much higher percentage from closer to the green.  It makes sense to have more clubs geared toward closer distances.  It's usually easier to take the same swing and let the loft of the club control distance vs trying to manipulate your swing to high a club 10-20yds less than a normal full swing.

 

You need to take a look at where your distance gaps are and where you take the most strokes in your game.  Do you have a club you are comfortable getting out of the sand with?  How far do you hit the UW?  Is there a big gap between your 3/4 wood and your lowest numbered iron?  

 

Looking at your setup I'd guess there is a gap in distance at the top end between your irons and fairway metal.  Could be a good spot to try out a 5 wood, hybrid or utility iron depending on your preference.  

 

Then the G700 UW is 49 degrees.  That leave plenty of room for 2 additional wedges that could make it easier to score from 100yds and in.  It would allow you to take a fuller swing from closer in and also more options around the green if you need to hit the ball higher or get it to stop faster.

 

All that said, everybody's game is different.  Just because something works for me or another member doesn't mean it's going to work for you.  It's all about trying out different clubs (or getting fit) until you can find the 14 clubs that give you the best chance as shooting your lowest score.  If a club is costing you strokes it has absolutely no business being in your bag.

[Kenny B]

The "clock" method, also called the "matrix" method, is outstanding for people who practice and play a lot.

 

You have three yardages for each wedge...

times, say, four wedges....

and it's mechanical.

 

Your caddy or GPS gives you a number, and you know instantly which wedge and which length swing that you're going to use.

 

But you better practice and play a lot to remember all of that.

 

Otherwise, you're better off using "the Force" to make your decision---like most of us.

I use the "Force" method, basically because I don't have a short game shot where any swing goes past 9 o'clock.  Unless there is a specific reason to do otherwise, anything within 70 yards gets my 58º wedge.  I vary the distance by feel, like shooting baskets or throwing a football to a running back, tight end, or wide receiver.  

[PING Apologist #9]

Looking at a lot of posts and folks signature lines , most on here have multiple wedges in their bag everywhere from 52 to 68 degrees. googling "how many wedges do I need" did not help as according to bob vokey 4,  but he might be a little biased.  

 

I have two , my PW and UW that came with my set , like most areas of my game there is room for improvement and I have looked at some wedges (ping glide 2.0 and Callaway) and that lead me to this question.

 

What do you feel is missing ( if anything ) by not carrying 2-3 wedges ? Why do you carry multiple wedges? (I deleted this post about 3 times now and finally lack of good info on google and curiosity got the better of me)

 

I currently employ 3 wedges. All three are replacements for the "stock" ones that I got with my iron set which were a PW, UW & SW. I decided to "upgrade" them to the Glides for several reasons-the most important being that I tend to use wedges (especially the SW/58*) on nearly every hole it seems. It just made sense to me to have a set that I was extremely comfortable and confident with so I therefore made the investment. Soon, I'll possibly add a 60* to my arsonal which will require some thought on which other club gets put on ice. Either 3W or the hybrid...

 

So for me, 3 wedges are the minimum and they fill my gaping just about right. With 9i going around 130, my 50* full shot is right at 115-125 or so. The 54* full shot goes out to the 105-110 neighborhood while a full shot with my 58* will carry at or around 80-90 but I rarely seem to need a full shot with it. These I got fitted for and I have supreme confidence with all of them everytime they are in my hands.

[GB13]

I currently employ 3 wedges. All three are replacements for the "stock" ones that I got with my iron set which were a PW, UW & SW. I decided to "upgrade" them to the Glides for several reasons-the most important being that I tend to use wedges (especially the SW/58*) on nearly every hole it seems. It just made sense to me to have a set that I was extremely comfortable and confident with so I therefore made the investment. Soon, I'll possibly add a 60* to my arsonal which will require some thought on which other club gets put on ice. Either 3W or the hybrid...

 

So for me, 3 wedges are the minimum and they fill my gaping just about right. With 9i going around 130, my 50* full shot is right at 115-125 or so. The 54* full shot goes out to the 105-110 neighborhood while a full shot with my 58* will carry at or around 80-90 but I rarely seem to need a full shot with it. These I got fitted for and I have supreme confidence with all of them everytime they are in my hands.

Just going to give my $.02.

What can you do with a 60° that you can't with a 58°? Also, your gapping with a 58 and a 60 would seem off to me. I would pick one or the other and learn how to use it well. Having both seems like overkill. I personally think that if you were going to add a wedge, I would go higher lofted than a 60, either a 62 or 64. This would lead to better gapping and a larger variety of playable shots.

[PING Apologist #9]

Just going to give my $.02.

What can you do with a 60° that you can't with a 58°? Also, your gapping with a 58 and a 60 would seem off to me. I would pick one or the other and learn how to use it well. Having both seems like overkill. I personally think that if you were going to add a wedge, I would go higher lofted than a 60, either a 62 or 64. This would lead to better gapping and a larger variety of playable shots.

You are spot on with your concerns and advice as usual. The 60* may become more of a wall hanger than a daily club to be fair, though I really want to see how it stacks up against the 58. The 60 is a "gift" from MGS that I won a couple of months ago for guessing closest to the pin on their live feed. It was a wedge of my choice customized by the "Wedge Wizard" himself. He & I decided at the time to order in a new Glide Forged (which were still to be released then), and the highest loft they offer right now is the 60. Otherwise I'd have asked for a 62 for sure. Thanks for looking out!

[BIG STU]

Well I have read through this and here is my .02 FWIW

Short game is an individual thing as to how one executes it and how many wedges they carry. A lot of it has to do with what era one learned the game in. Older guys like myself and Nifty learned when pitching wedges were from 47* to 50* and some even 52*. The only other wedge we had was a sand wedge from usually 55* to 56*. We learned to deloft or jack loft and be creative. Nothing wrong at all if someone carries 4 wedges etc if that fits their game style. Some guys use the clock method on wedge shots for control nothing wrong with that either. I am an instinct and feel player strictly old school. I could not begin to tell you how far back I pull a wedge on say a 60 yard shot. My eyes tell my body somehow how far back to pull it. But that is not for everyone. A lot of wedge technology today is in the sole grinds too. It can be confusing especially to a new golfer. If you bear with me I can give you an example. Most of the seasoned members on here know I play vintage clubs which technically are non conforming for stipulated play. Well lately I have put together a legal bag wedges and all for some possible tournament play this fall. A while back I traded for a set of Hopkins wedges. Sorta liked them but they had too much bounce and some other screwey grinds on the soles. Ended up taking the 58* and bending it back to 60* and solved the bounce problem for me. With some weight added in the correct places and some shaft doctoring I got it right

 

In a nutshell one has to do their short game as to what fits their style and method of play whether it be the clock method and carrying 4 wedges or the Instinct feel way and carrying 2 or 3 wedges. There is no one etched in stone way to properly play and execute this game. Fellow member John Smalls has played golf with me and he will tell you I use different methods both with the wedges 7 iron and putter around the green. Just gotta do it as to what feels comfortable to you and your game. Good example the other day we had a discussion on here about using a putter off the green. I stated that any chance I got to use that putter I would do so. Fellow member Ethan Sterling Price stated he was not comfortable using a putter off the green that he used his 58*. He is probably good enough I would say (plus young nerves) there is no doubt in my mind he could equal or exceed my putter shot . Probably more than likely same results. 

[TheWahoo]

I carry three wedges: a pitching wedge, a gap wedge and a sand wedge.    Regarding the use of my pitching and gap wedges, I become a Jedi golfer and let the force lead me and hope that I am not on the dark side.   As for my sand wedge in a bunker, I just pray.

[Jbmullin]

I have been rotating clubs in and out , usually have a full bag. Have tried a couple chippers and been trying out a couple fairway woods and hybrids.

 

Great feedback and advice , looks like I have some homework on the course is needed .

 

 

@Jbmullin If I read your signature correctly you are carrying 11 clubs (assuming irons are 4i-UW). That leaves you 3 extra clubs that you could add in to the bag.

 

If you think about how many strokes you take from outside 150yds, vs how many strokes you take from inside 150yd I'm guessing it's a much higher percentage from closer to the green. It makes sense to have more clubs geared toward closer distances. It's usually easier to take the same swing and let the loft of the club control distance vs trying to manipulate your swing to high a club 10-20yds less than a normal full swing.

 

You need to take a look at where your distance gaps are and where you take the most strokes in your game. Do you have a club you are comfortable getting out of the sand with? How far do you hit the UW? Is there a big gap between your 3/4 wood and your lowest numbered iron?

 

Looking at your setup I'd guess there is a gap in distance at the top end between your irons and fairway metal. Could be a good spot to try out a 5 wood, hybrid or utility iron depending on your preference.

 

Then the G700 UW is 49 degrees. That leave plenty of room for 2 additional wedges that could make it easier to score from 100yds and in. It would allow you to take a fuller swing from closer in and also more options around the green if you need to hit the ball higher or get it to stop faster.

 

All that said, everybody's game is different. Just because something works for me or another member doesn't mean it's going to work for you. It's all about trying out different clubs (or getting fit) until you can find the 14 clubs that give you the best chance as shooting your lowest score. If a club is costing you strokes it has absolutely no business being in your bag.

 

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[GolfSpy_APH]

I carry 4 PW, Gap, 54, 58 and I use full swings with all of them. I find myself a Lot between 80-135 yards going into greens that means I'm a full shot with any of those clubs in rather then fooling around with half shots.

It also gives me a good 50 yard window to shoot to for par 5s and many par 4s.

I use those 4 clubs a heck of a lot more then I do my 5 and 6 irons. Again thank you Arccos for all the loads of data. It only further supports my decision to have 4 in play.

[Jbmullin]

A lot of great info and advice given. Appreciate the feedback and discussion.

 

 

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[fixyurdivot]

GB13 makes an excellent observation.

 

The shots that you choose to play are a big factor in approach and equipment alike.

I looked to lob everything right at the hole as is I were playing basketball. 

That's totally different from either bump and run OR clock/matrix.

 

GB13's  "chop shot,"  taught to me as a "cut lob" decades ago, was my "go to" shot from a myriad of distances and situations.   It's very "feel" driven, thus "the Force."

 

I still only have my PE2 W.  Someone beat me to the two Vokey SM6 wedges listed for sale a week ago.  Like GB13, I play the "bump and run" game, for shots inside 30 yards using my 7 and 8 irons, and have for many years.  This works well for most situations where you have a nice clear runway to the pin.

 

Where I'm hoping the addition of another wedge will provide is for those 50-70 yard shots where I use my PE2 W and try to throttle the swing.  That club less than a full swing has long been inconsistent; most often coming up short.  So many on the forum list two or more wedges in their quiver - and many are single digit guys. I think that pretty much answers the OP question as to their value.   As such, I'm still on the hunt for one (or pair) to see how they'll help.

[GB13]

I still only have my PE2 W. Someone beat me to the two Vokey SM6 wedges listed for sale a week ago. Like GB13, I play the "bump and run" game, for shots inside 30 yards using my 7 and 8 irons, and have for many years. This works well for most situations where you have a nice clear runway to the pin.

 

Where I'm hoping the addition of another wedge will provide is for those 50-70 yard shots where I use my PE2 W and try to throttle the swing. That club less than a full swing has long been inconsistent; most often coming up short. So many on the forum list two or more wedges in their quiver - and many are single digit guys. I think that pretty much answers the OP question as to their value. As such, I'm still on the hunt for one (or pair) to see how they'll help.

You sound like a perfect candidate for additional wedges.

They will help fill those gaps well.

Here are some good conduction used Pings for cheap, I can't recommend these enough:

https://www.2ndswing.com/ping/golf-wedges/glide/#used

 

You also sound like the clock system would work well for you. If you struggle with distance control, even hitting five knee to knee shots and getting the distance for those and repeating with waist to waist, shoulder to shoulder and full shots for all wedges. Then you have a set distance for each swing so you wont leave so many short. Getting distances can be done in a 30 minute range session.

This should help your wedge game immensely.

[BIG STU]

I carry three wedges: a pitching wedge, a gap wedge and a sand wedge.    Regarding the use of my pitching and gap wedges, I become a Jedi golfer and let the force lead me and hope that I am not on the dark side.   As for my sand wedge in a bunker, I just pray.

Letting the force lead you means you are an instinct golfer. On the sand play I recommend the Maltby CD "How Wedges Work" It will help you understand how bounce and such works and how you can apply it to your game. I will give you two tidbits to chew on for bunker play. Remember everyone's AOA is different and some sole grinds that you buy will not work for some folks with the face wide open. When you see the pros on TV open the face wide open it is because they have had that wedge ground for them to do that. Most of us old school guys use straight bottomed wedges because we learned like that. Trust me some of these modern wedges with funky sole grinds I can not hit either. But then again they may work for you and others. I am a wedge ho and mess around quite a bit with wedges and will not hesitate to take a grinder to one. Basically I use a Scratch EGG type grind on my 60* which is a sharp leading edge. I copied Ari's original grind and have done it so much I can darn near do it in my sleep

[BIG STU]

Just going to give my $.02.

What can you do with a 60° that you can't with a 58°? Also, your gapping with a 58 and a 60 would seem off to me. I would pick one or the other and learn how to use it well. Having both seems like overkill. I personally think that if you were going to add a wedge, I would go higher lofted than a 60, either a 62 or 64. This would lead to better gapping and a larger variety of playable shots.

On that question of 60 vs 58 a lot had to do with the grind. For some reason a 58 and I do not get along but let me bend it up to 60 then I am cooking with gas. I have had the same issue with all different brands on that too. And yes I can open that 56 up to 60 too but the reason I carry a 60 is the different grinds. That little chop shot you were talking about we call the chop pop I learned it at a Lee Trevino clinic when I was a kid. One of the reasons I have the Scratch EGG grind I previously described on my 60. With that grind for me it will really dig and pop the ball up

[BIG STU]

I still only have my PE2 W.  Someone beat me to the two Vokey SM6 wedges listed for sale a week ago.  Like GB13, I play the "bump and run" game, for shots inside 30 yards using my 7 and 8 irons, and have for many years.  This works well for most situations where you have a nice clear runway to the pin.

 

Where I'm hoping the addition of another wedge will provide is for those 50-70 yard shots where I use my PE2 W and try to throttle the swing.  That club less than a full swing has long been inconsistent; most often coming up short.  So many on the forum list two or more wedges in their quiver - and many are single digit guys. I think that pretty much answers the OP question as to their value.   As such, I'm still on the hunt for one (or pair) to see how they'll help.

Nothing at all wrong with adding that 4th wedge to your bag if you think it will help your game.